Simpson Desert

Simpson Desert The Simpson Desert can be crossed via the French Line, WAA line or Rig Road. This trek provides a route using a combination of all 3 routes.
StartClick to Reverse the Dynamic Map and Driving NotesDalhousie Springs
FinishBirdsville
DifficultyDifficulty 4/5 Suitable for4WD Bike 
Distance567.35 kmMinimum Days3
Average Speed34.7 km/hrDriving Time16 hrs 20 mins
Rating 5 Star Rating1 Reviews
Article By: ExplorOz Team
Page Updated: 24 May 2013

Go to top Description

The Simpson Desert is the common name given to the area between Birdsville in the South West Corner of Queensland to Dalhousie Springs in the far north of South Australia near the Northern Territory border and actually lies across the corners of 3 States - South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory. The route we describe on this page is called the Combined Route - it is a customised a trek route for those that wish to see as much as possible of the area in the one trip, taking in a little of each track.

There are 3 main tracks across the Simpson Desert. Follow these links for specific trek notes if not doing the Combined Route: Simpson Desert French Line, Simpson Desert Rig Road and Simpson Desert WAA Line.

Using The Combined Route, you will travel 567km. Following our notes you will initially traverse the French Line with diversions onto the Rig, Colson, WAA, AAK and then pick up the French Line again to Poepells Corner and onto the QAA Line into Birdsville. The Simpson Desert can be crossed from West - East or East - West, depending on your preference. Our notes show both driving directions. Tracks are defined only by the ruts and wheel marks in the sand - there is no grading or grooming of the track at any point of the trek.

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Go to top Interactive Route Map

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Simpson Desert Help

From: Dalhousie Springs
To: Birdsville

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Go to top Permits

You will need a Desert Parks Pass which is a permit that covers all access and camping. It is advisable to arrange this permit well in advance as it contains specific and comprehensive travel planning information, including a set of maps and booklets. Desert Park Passes can NOT be forward dated. This means, they have to be dated with the date they are purchased. A Desert Park Pass can be purchased online directly from the Department of Environment and Natural Resources SA here: http://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/Park_Entry_Fees/Parks_Passes

Go to top Things to See & Do

Go to top Preparation

Your vehicle will need to be extensively prepared for remote area travel, with all fuel, water, food and vehicle repair equipment and spare parts.

All travellers should read the 4WDriving Topic for related articles and checklists for vehicle setup and driver awareness.

We advise that you refer to the latest information and advice about outback communications in the Communications Topic. All drivers should set their UHF radios to scan all stations, but take note that Channel 10 is the offical channel for the Simspon Desert. Anywhere in the Diamantina Shire (comprising the towns of Birdsville, Betoota and Bedourie) you must not used UHF Ch 8 and 38 as these are to be reserved for emergency calls only - these channels are monitored by the Clinics, Police and station operators and must remain clear.

For any dune driving you should fly a dune flag from the front of your vehicle to avoid head on collisions on dune tops. Additionally, the lead vehicle in any direction should periodically make calls on Channel 10 from the top of large dunes on the UHF radio to advise oncoming traffic of your position.

You will also need a Desert Parks Pass - a permit that covers all access and camping. It is advisable to arrange this permit well in advance as it contains specific and comprehensive travel planning information, including a set of maps and booklets. Desert Park Passes can NOT be forward dated. This means, they have to be dated with the date they are purchased. ExplorOz are agents for the sale of the Desert Parks Pass.

Please take particular note that the Desert Parks Department strongly disapprove of trailers being towed across the Simpson Desert. Travellers are advised to drop off trailers and conduct a loop trip or a double-crossing to retrieve the trailer later.

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Fuel SymbolBirdsville Diesel4cyl 90 litres * ULP4cyl 115 litres * LPG4cyl 113 litres
6cyl 96 litres *6cyl 128 litres *6cyl 100 litres
8cyl 92 litres *8cyl 94 litres

Services & Supplies

The following locations have various services and supplies: Birdsville
There are supplies at Oodnadatta and Mt Dare but these locations are not on this route.

Go to top Camp Sites & Accommodation

Go to top Environment

The Simpson Desert is the driest region of Australia and it is a dunal desert - a sea of parallel red sand ridges around 300-500 kilometres long covering a total area of 170,000 square kilometres.

The Approdinna Attora Knolls were once the highest peaks in the desert, but are now simply two gypsum outcrops. Note - camping is not permited within 1km of the "Knolls".

There are numerous salt pans and lakes throughout the Simpson Desert and these can flood after rains and close the desert to vehicle traffic. Camping around the salt lake areas near the Erabena Track Junction/French Line is most rewarding because the gidgee woodlands provide shade, shelter and soft ground for camping. There are increased wildlife viewing possibilities and you'll see great colours over the lakes at sunset.

Dalhouse Springs is an enormous natural spring-fed billabong at 38 degrees in natural surrounds. It is a carefully managed area that allows tourism, with minimal impact. Day visitors may enter from the western edge of the Desert, however a Day Pass from the Ranger will be required if camping. Note - those travellers doing a desert crossing will be covered for camping here within the full Desert Parks Pass.

Purnie Bore is not a natural watering hole, however a borehead here allows some water to be released from the artesian basin to sustain the wildlife that have come to rely on this area being an "unnatural watercourse" for many years whilst the borehead was allowed to overflow, creating a large lake. Friends of the Simpson Desert have created a bird hide from which to observe wildlife here and it's a popular camp site with good facilities.

Along the Rig Road stands a lone box eucalypt (colloquially known as the Lone Gum Tree). The box eucalypt is actually a member of the Coolibah family, which generally grows in the clay soils of flood prone areas yet is thriving in the middle of the Simpson Desert dunes, far removed from the nearest watercourse.

Rains normally occur in the heat of summer (late December through to early early March), although floods have been known to remain as late as July. Each season is different and you must plan your trip by keeping an eye on weather conditions and road reports .

The South Australian section of the Simpson Desert is divided into 3 protected areas, Simpson Desert Conservation Park, Simpson Desert Regional Reserve and Witjira National Park managed by the South Australian Desert Parks department of the SA Department of Environment and Heritage. A permit (the SA Desert Parks Pass) is required for all travel and camping.

Flora

The majority of the plant life you'll see is spinifex and upside down trees! Desert vegetation depends on seasonal conditions. In particular after rain the Simpson puts on an incredible show of desert wildflowers including billy buttons, poached egg daises, cunningham bird flower. Most are short lived, and during the peak travel season most people have missed their chance of seeing the desert in bloom.

Fauna

Of all the wildlife you'll encounter in the Simpson Desert, you'll become the most acquainted with the bush fly - annoying but thankfully gone after sundown. " Eagles" are the most commonly seen of the birds in the desert area although there are some 150 different species of birdlife including the Bustard, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Brown Falcon, budgerigar and Zebra Finch. Around the floodplains you could see Black Kites, Crested Pigeons and Galahs. Many creatures are nocturnal, so they are not easily seen or photographed. These include small marsupials but there are also some feral animals such as rabbits, foxes, camels and donkeys. Dingoes and camels are very common throughout the Simpson with the highest population of camels being in the southern parts so the Rig Road is the best place to spot them. If you get out of your vehicle during the day you might see some reptiles such the Perentie (goanna), Western Brown Snake, Woma Python and the Banded Skink.

Go to top History

In the 1800's, the Simpson Desert was inhabited only by Aboriginal tribes. In 1845 explorer Charles Sturt was the first European to see the Simpson Desert but it was not named until the 1930s when another Australian explorer and geologist, Cecil Thomas Madigan, named it after Allen Simpson, the sponsor of his subsequent expedition.

An interesting natural feature in the Simpson Desert is The Approdinna Attora Knolls found along the AAK Track. The "Knolls" are two gypsum outcrops that were once the highest peaks in the desert. The first European to set eyes on The Knolls was the Australian explorer David Lindsay on 11 January 1886.

The first successful crossing of the desert occurred in 1936 by E A (Ted) Colson and the first motorised crossing, wasn't until 1962 by geologist Reg Sprigg and his family.

10 months later and using pegs laid out by Reg Sprigg, the oilworkers of CGG (Compagnie Generale de Geophysique) the prime contractor of French Petroleum, forged a track now known as the "French Line" with their Land Rovers, supply trucks and Blitzwagon semi-trailers in 1963. This path was built with the sole purpose of oil exploration.

However, oil discovered in the Simpson was of poor quality and therefore of no commercial value and after a clean up, the expedition was abandoned.

The Mokari airstrip was used extensively during the oil exploration days of the 1960s. Nearby is a monument to Jaroslav Pecanek who provided essential supplies for the isolated exploration crews. He is buried elsewhere (unknown) in the desert.

In 1973, Charles McCubbin and Warren Bonython, harnessed to a lightweight aluminium cart of their own design and armed with ski sticks, were the first to cross the Simpson Desert on foot! It took them 32 days.

Since then, the Simpson Desert has become a focal point for modern day explorers crossing on all forms of transport - including bicycles. The French Line and associated access tracks for the oil exploration activities still remain the only routes throughout the desert and it is unlikely that tar is ever possible (or wished) to be laid across this part of the country.

An interesting natural feature in the Simpson Desert is The Approdinna Attora Knolls found along the AAK Track. The "Knolls" are two gypsum outcrops that were once the highest peaks in the desert. The first European to set eyes on The Knolls was the Australian explorer David Lindsay on 11 January 1886. The atmosphere in this area is quite different to other parts of the desert, with a salt lake (Lake Tambyn) and a significant gidgee forest. Please note that camping is prohibited within 1km of the Knolls.
Poepells Corner is for many people a great highlight of their Simpson Desert adventure. Here you can see a surveyor's peg marks the spot of a tri-state junction - the borders of South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory. This is not the original peg (it is preserved in a museum). Not far away you might find some of Poeppel's original mile posts and historic markers.

Go to top Driving Directions

Time
Direction
Distance
Dalhousie Springs to Lookout on Rig Rd 19.35 km E 86° 21 min
Lookout on Rig Rd to Freeth Junction 30.94 km E 73° 32 min
Freeth Junction to Purnie Bore 18.66 km E 70° 21 min
Purnie Bore to French Line & Rig Road 27.68 km E 78° 35 min
French Line & Rig Road to Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip 12.3 km SE 149° 13 min
Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip to WAA Line & Glen Joyce Oil Well Access 8.15 km E 90° 12 min
WAA Line & Glen Joyce Oil Well Access to Georges Corner, WAA Line & Rig Road 27.51 km E 91° 46 min
Georges Corner, WAA Line & Rig Road to WAA Line & Rig Road 0.24 km E 70° 3 min
WAA Line & Rig Road to WAA Line & Colson Track 2.08 km E 90° 3 min
WAA Line & Colson Track to Colson Track & Oolarinna Oil Well Access 10.21 km N 339° 18 min
Colson Track & Oolarinna Oil Well Access to French Line & Colson Tk 9.78 km N 340° 18 min
French Line & Colson Tk to French Line & Erabena Tk 52.37 km E 79° 2 hr 8 min
French Line & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Erabena Tk 30.43 km S 163° 51 min
WAA Line & Erabena Tk to Rig Road & Erabena Tk 11.98 km S 165° 20 min
Rig Road & Erabena Tk to Lone Gum Tree 7.25 km S 168° 11 min
Lone Gum Tree to Rig Road & Erabena Tk 7.25 km N 348° 11 min
Rig Road & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Erabena Tk 11.98 km N 345° 20 min
WAA Line & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Knolls Tk 29.88 km E 90° 1 hr 27 min
WAA Line & Knolls Tk to Approdinna Attora Knolls 30.61 km N 354° 1 hr 15 min
Approdinna Attora Knolls to French Line & Knolls Tk 3.86 km N 346° 10 min
French Line & Knolls Tk to French Line & Thomas Track 14.08 km E 85° 38 min
French Line & Thomas Track to Poeppel Corner 26.02 km E 83° 1 hr 10 min
Poeppel Corner to QAA Line & French Line Access 18.71 km N 340° 29 min
QAA Line & French Line Access to QAA Line & K1 Line 3.32 km E 96° 9 min
QAA Line & K1 Line to Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line 9.13 km E 95° 19 min
Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line to Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line 10.14 km E 97° 22 min
Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line to Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line 34.86 km E 95° 55 min
Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line to Spinifex Dune, QAA Line 17.69 km E 94° 26 min
Spinifex Dune, QAA Line to Simpson Desert NP East Boundary 2.11 km E 94° 3 min
Simpson Desert NP East Boundary to QAA Line & Annandale Ruins Access 16.42 km E 84° 27 min
QAA Line & Annandale Ruins Access to Eyre Creek, QAA Line 0.12 km E 98°
Eyre Creek, QAA Line to Big Red 18.72 km E 84° 28 min
Big Red to Birdsville 43.51 km E 94° 1 hr 1 min
Dalhousie Springs to Birdsville 567.35 km     16 hr 20 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 10 Coongie Lakes to Home via the Bore Track
. Back at Innaminka we refuelled before heading out to Cullyamurra Waterhole, where we found another big beautiful stretch of water. had branches that had fused together, a curious feature we have seen in other places as well. From there we headed south on the Strzelecki Track past the big geothermal drilling rig where we stopped for a good look. We had heard a news item on the radio last nigh
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 9 Birdsville to Coongie Lakes
. After a hot Birdsville night we made our final farewells the next morning then packed up in preparation for the next stage of this journey. Before we left though, we got to chatting to another couple, Sue and Terry, also in a Troopy. They were planning on driving the Walkers Crossing track, so we might meet up later in the day. Before leaving Birdsville we had a bit of a look around town.
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 8 Dalhousie Springs to Birdsville
. It was even colder next morning when our still-wet towels and swimmers crackled with ice, so we decided against another swim. Besides, we were keen to get out into the “real” desert! Soon we were mobile again, heading east on a fairly rough road with its fair share of corrugations. The sand dunes didn’t start until just west of Purnie Bore and at first they were small and closely spaced making for easy driving. We stopped at Purnie Bore where water flows into an extensive man-made wetland.
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 7 Alice Springs to Dalhousie Springs
. We had a slow start the following morning but by 10.30 we were driving past the airport and dropping our tyre pressure once we were on the gravel. We were heading out towards Santa Theresa then on to Old Andado, through Mt. Dare and Dalhousie Springs and onto the French Line. Initially the road was good but it soon deteriorated so we stopped to let more air out of the tyres – and found that we had yet another tyre going flat. This was getting to be annoying, but after a quick change we were soon on our way again.
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 6 Exploring around Gem Tree
. Now it was time to literally move on and enjoy the next stage of the trip with Kevin and Megan. We had a good run out from Batten Hill and along the Plenty Highway towards Alice, stopping a few times for photos. Although the corrugations were not too bad, great clouds of dust rose from the vehicles. We arrived at Gem Tree by mid afternoon and the rest of the day was spent in the laundry doing many loads of washing, making phone calls and reorganising and cleaning Troopy.
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 5 Mount Tietkins
. Next day the scientists and their volunteers arrived, about a dozen people, excited to see their new camp and keen to get out into this new area. They each quickly selected a spot to camp and set up – for some that was as simple as dropping a swag and their backpack, while others erected tents or camper trailers. Once that was done the camp suddenly looked very busy. Then there was a quick cuppa before the hand-held UHF radios were handed out,
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 4 Ngarra Ngarra Swamp
Having reached Kevin and Megan’s camp at Ngarra Ngarra Swamp near Lake Caroline we attempted to make contact with Batten Hill, only to find, as Kevin had already discovered, that it was impossible to get through using HF. We continued trying unsuccessfully to make contact throughout the next day. We weren’t concerned, thinking that Lindsay would have reported that all was well once he arrived back at Batten Hill. In the meantime Kevin and Megan had found themselves with unexpected responsibilities,
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 3 Excursions from Batten Hill
. It was a big and diverse group of people who Then there were the scientists who came from universities, government departments, botanical gardens and other research organisations from all around the country, although two or three were based in Alice Springs. Last but not least there were the volunteers
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 2 William Creek to Batten Hill
. The road between William Creek and Oodnadatta was rough and corrugated in places. The country was very dry and brown and we wondered what the occasional cattle that we saw were eating. We pulled in to Algebuckina siding and then the bridge for morning tea and photos. The disused bridge is 500 metres long, making it the longest bridge in SA. It is rather an imposing structure out there in the desert, crossing a wide watercourse, now almost dry except for some shallow pools. It was sad though,
Simpson Desert and Batten Hill Trip, 2007- Part 1 Canberra to William Creek
. In early 2007 we responded to a call for three volunteer radio operators to participate in a scientific expedition to Batten Hill in the NE of the Simpson Desert. We had done the Hay River Trek the previous year with our Canberra 4WD club and we, along with other couples who had participated in that trip, expressed an interest and duly applied. A long time passed without any reply, and we had almost given up hope of being selected. Then a few weeks before we would need to leave,
Days 24 to 27 - Charleville to St George, Applethorpe, Home
Day 24 - Charleville to St George via Mitchell. Last night dropped to about 7°. I was looking forward to cooler weather, but to wake up freezing in the early morning was unexpected. I have some warmer gear packed somewhere. I started the day by visiting relatives in Charleville. I first met them at Barkly Downs Station some 12 months ago when we placed the Headstone on Hop Thomas's grave. My relatives, are direct descendants from Hop and Annie's sons. I am a direct descendent of their only daughter.
Days 16 to 19 - Dajarra to Boulia, Bedourie, Birdsville.
Day 16: Dajarra to Boulia, Bedourie. After an uneventful trip from Dajarra, and not being the tourist season, Boulia was quiet. Thankfully the Min Min Encounter Coffee Shop was open for good food and coffee - what every traveller in the Outback needs. Boulia has a strong Telstra signal. The attached Information Centre was well stocked with gifts, stock and interesting material. Refreshed, I fuelled up for the trip ahead - $1.79 a litre for diesel - at the only servo in town.

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