Simpson Desert

Simpson Desert The Simpson Desert can be crossed via the French Line, WAA line or Rig Road. This trek provides a route using a combination of all 3 routes.
StartClick to Reverse the Dynamic Map and Driving NotesDalhousie Springs
FinishBirdsville
DifficultyDifficulty 4/5 Suitable for4WD Bike 
Distance569.47 kmMinimum Days3
Average Speed33.96 km/hrDriving Time16 hrs 46 mins
DownloadDownload Trek
Rating 4.67 Star Rating3 Reviews
Article By: ExplorOz Team
Page Updated: 6 Aug 2014

Images from this Trek

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Description

The Simpson Desert is the common name given to the area between Birdsville in the South West Corner of Queensland to Dalhousie Springs in the far north of South Australia near the Northern Territory border and actually lies across the corners of 3 States - South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory. The route we describe on this page is called the Combined Route - it is a customised trek route for those that wish to see as much as possible of the area in the one trip, taking in a little of each track.

There are 3 main tracks across the Simpson Desert. Follow these links for specific trek notes if not doing the Combined Route: Simpson Desert French Line, Simpson Desert Rig Road and Simpson Desert WAA Line.

Using The Combined Route, you will travel 570km. Following our notes you will initially traverse the French Line with diversions onto the Rig, Colson, WAA, AAK and then pick up the French Line again to Poeppel Corner and onto the QAA Line into Birdsville. The Simpson Desert can be crossed from West - East or East - West, depending on your preference. Our notes show both driving directions. Tracks are defined only by the ruts and wheel marks in the sand - there is no grading or grooming of the track at any point of the trek.

How to Use this Trek Note

The idea of a Trek Note, is that we provide a recommended route to explore an area with point-to-point guidance and extensive trip planning information about when to go, what to see, and where to camp. However, all the facts and data files are available should you prefer to build your own route/itinerary.

To see the route we recommend, click on the "Map" tab. Then, use the Moving Map Control to take a virtual tour of the route. You can reverse the order of the direction notes by clicking the arrow alongside the words Start/Finish at the very top of the information on this page.

Click on the "What to See" & "Where to Stay" tabs to see more about each Place that the route follows. Click each listed Place to open a separate page (and download for Members only) to enrich your understanding of the area.

A text list of Place to Place distances (see Directions tab) is given, plus you can download the route file to load into your GPS/Navigator. Go to our shop to obtain the complete EOTreks Route Files download.

If you just want the raw data files (for use with mapping software or to load into a GPS/Navigator), then the track file and waypoints are downloadable for free (Members only), using the Download Treks button at the top of this page.

You can also print this page (use the print icon button) and text from all sections (Description, Preparation, What to See, Where to Stay, Directions, Related, Feedback) will be reformatted into one easy-to-read document (except for detailed Place information – do these separately).

Environment

The Simpson Desert is the driest region of Australia and it is a dunal desert - a sea of parallel red sand ridges around 300-500 kilometres long covering a total area of 170,000 square kilometres.

An interesting natural feature in the Simpson Desert is The Approdinna Attora Knolls found along the AAK Track. The "Knolls" are two gypsum outcrops that were once the highest peaks in the desert. The atmosphere in this area is quite different to other parts of the desert, with a salt lake (Lake Tambyn) and a significant gidgee forest. Please note that camping is prohibited within 1km of the Knolls.

Poeppel Corner is for many people a great highlight of their Simpson Desert adventure. Here you can see a surveyor's peg marks the spot of a tri-state junction - the borders of South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory. This is not the original peg (it is preserved in a museum). Not far away you might find some of Poeppel's original mile posts and historic markers.

There are numerous salt pans and lakes throughout the Simpson Desert and these can flood after rains and close the desert to vehicle traffic. Camping around the salt lake areas near the Erabena Track Junction/French Line is most rewarding because the gidgee woodlands provide shade, shelter and soft ground for camping. There are increased wildlife viewing possibilities and you'll see great colours over the lakes at sunset.

Dalhousie Springs is an enormous natural spring-fed billabong at 38 degrees in natural surrounds. It is a carefully managed area that allows tourism, with minimal impact. Rubbish dumps are located here for your convenience. Day visitors may enter from the western edge of the Desert, however a Day Pass from the Ranger will be required if camping. Note - those travellers doing a desert crossing will be covered for camping here within the full Desert Parks Pass.

Purnie Bore is not a natural watering hole, however a borehead here allows some water to be released from the artesian basin to sustain the wildlife that have come to rely on this area being an "unnatural watercourse" for many years whilst the borehead was allowed to overflow, creating a large lake. Friends of the Simpson Desert have created a bird hide from which to observe wildlife here and it's a popular camp site with good facilities.

Rains normally occur in the heat of summer (late December through to early March), although floods have been known to remain as late as July. Each season is different and you must plan your trip by keeping an eye on weather conditions and road reports .

The South Australian section of the Simpson Desert is divided into 3 protected areas, Simpson Desert Conservation Park, Simpson Desert Regional Reserve and Witjira National Park managed by the South Australian Desert Parks department of the SA Department of Environment and Heritage. A permit (the SA Desert Parks Pass) is required for all travel and camping.

Flora

The majority of the plant life you'll see is Spinifex and upside down trees! Desert vegetation depends on seasonal conditions. In particular after rain the Simpson puts on an incredible show of desert wildflowers including Billy buttons, Poached egg daises, & Cunningham bird flower. Most are short lived, and during the peak travel season most people have missed their chance of seeing the desert in bloom, unless of course there has been rain late rain.

Along the Rig Road stands a lone Box eucalypt (colloquially known as the Lone Gum Tree). The Box eucalypt is actually a member of the Coolibah family, which generally grows in the clay soils of flood prone areas yet is thriving in the middle of the Simpson Desert dunes, far removed from the nearest watercourse.

NOTE: Firewood collection or wood fires are no longer permitted in Witjira National Park AT ALL. This does not include the Simpson Desert Conservation Park or Regional Reserves. In these areas, wood fires and solid fuel fires are only prohibited from 1 November to 31 March & gas fires are permitted other than on days of Total Fire Ban.

Fauna

Of all the wildlife you'll encounter in the Simpson Desert, you'll become the most acquainted with the bush fly - annoying but thankfully gone after sundown. " Eagles" are the most commonly seen of the birds in the desert area although there are some 150 different species of birdlife including the Bustard, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Brown Falcon, budgerigar and Zebra Finch. Around the floodplains you could see Black Kites, Crested Pigeons and Galahs. Many creatures are nocturnal, so they are not easily seen or photographed. These include small marsupials but there are also some feral animals such as rabbits, foxes, camels and donkeys. Dingoes and camels are very common throughout the Simpson with the highest population of camels being in the southern parts so the Rig Road is the best place to spot them. If you get out of your vehicle during the day you might see some reptiles such the Perentie (goanna), Western Brown Snake, Woma Python and the Banded Skink.

History

In the 1800's, the Simpson Desert was inhabited only by Aboriginal tribes. In 1845 explorer Charles Sturt was the first European to see the Simpson Desert but it was not named until the 1930s when another Australian explorer and geologist, Cecil Thomas Madigan, named it after Allen Simpson, the sponsor of his subsequent expedition.

The first European to set eyes on The Knolls was the Australian explorer David Lindsay on 11 January 1886. The first successful crossing of the desert occurred in 1936 by E A (Ted) Colson and the first motorised crossing, wasn't until 1962 by geologist Reg Sprigg and his family. 10 months later and using pegs laid out by Reg Sprigg, the oilworkers of CGG (Compagnie Generale de Geophysique) the prime contractor of French Petroleum, forged a track now known as the "French Line" with their Land Rovers, supply trucks and Blitzwagon semi-trailers in 1963. This path was built with the sole purpose of oil exploration. However, oil discovered in the Simpson was of poor quality and therefore of no commercial value and after a clean up, the expedition was abandoned.

The Mokari airstrip was used extensively during the oil exploration days of the 1960s. Nearby is a monument to Jaroslav Pecanek who provided essential supplies for the isolated exploration crews. He is buried elsewhere (unknown) in the desert.

In 1973, Charles McCubbin and Warren Bonython, harnessed to a lightweight aluminum cart of their own design and armed with ski stocks, were the first to cross the Simpson Desert on foot! It took them 32 days.

Since then, the Simpson Desert has become a focal point for modern day explorers crossing on all forms of transport - including bicycles. The French Line and associated access tracks for the oil exploration activities still remain the only routes throughout the desert and it is unlikely that tar is ever possible (or wished) to be laid across this part of the country.

Map

Take a virtual tour of this trek using the interactive map below. You can click any feature on the map, or use the Moving Map controls to watch the trek in auto-play from start to finish. As each feature is selected, it will flash green on the map, and a panel will open above the map with more detailed information for that selection.
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Preparation

For detailed checklists & advice regarding remote area travel, you are strongly encouraged to read the following articles: 4WD Driving Skills & Rules; What to Take; Recovery Gear Needs; Spare Parts and Tools; Food & Water; Water Tank; Long Range Fuel Tanks; Suspension; EPIRB; HF Radio; UHF Radio; Satphone; Staying in Touch as well as Travel Etiquette; Care for the Environment; Snake Bite Treatment; Outback Survival; & Driver Fatigue.

Official track reports are reviewed weekly and you'll always find the latest report in the ExplorOz Road Conditions section.
Logistically, some people struggle with fact that towing trailers across the Simpson Desert is strongly discouraged. However with advanced planning, this is quite manageable. If you are doing your Simpson Desert trip as part of a longer journey, you are advised to drop off your trailer at either Mt Dare (west end) or Birdsville (east end) and conduct a loop trip (via Maree & Oodnadatta) or a double-crossing to retrieve your trailer.

UHF Channel 10 is the official channel for communications the Simpson Desert, however this is designed for checking oncoming traffic and is not to be used for general chit chat. For chatting you should respectfully select an unallocated channel. Also note there is a repeater on Ch 7 Duplex for contacting Pink Roadhouse, and Ch 6 (2 or 4) Duplex for contacting Mt Dare Hotel. Anywhere in the Diamantina Shire (comprising the towns of Birdsville, Betoota and Bedourie) you must not use UHF Ch 8 and 38 as these are to be reserved for emergency calls only - these channels are monitored by the Clinics, Police and station operators and must remain clear.

For any dune driving you should fly a dune flag (sandflag) from the front of your vehicle to avoid head on collisions on dune tops. Why not get an ExplorOz Sandflag? These are sold in our online shop as flag only, or as a complete kit with rugged offroad pole and bracket. For safe travel, the lead vehicle in any direction should periodically make calls on Channel 10 from the top of large dunes on the UHF radio to advise oncoming traffic of your position. Head on collisions do happen unfortunately, so take every precaution possible. Conditions of the desert tracks vary greatly from season to season, month to month and day to day.

Permits

You will need a Desert Parks Pass which is a permit that covers all access and camping. It is advisable to arrange this permit well in advance as it contains specific and comprehensive travel planning information, including a set of maps and booklets. Desert Park Passes can NOT be forward dated. This means, they have to be dated with the date they are purchased. A Desert Park Pass can be purchased online directly from the Department of Environment and Natural Resources SA here: Desert Parks Pass

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Best Time To Visit

Generally, the best travelling is in the middle of winter when the weather will be cool to mild during the day but it can be very cold (zero) at night. Due to extreme summer temperatures and to ensure the safety of visitors and emergency personnel, the Simpson Desert is closed for travel between Birdsville & Dalhousie Springs during the peak of summer from 1 December to 15 March each year. During this time only the Witjira reserve is open and visitors may still access Dalhousie Springs.

Closest Climatic Station

Birdsville Airport
Distance from Trek Mid Point 193.61km E
 JanFebMarAprMayJun JulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean Max. °C 40.238.135.231.8 25.621.121.824.7 29.932.936.038.5
Mean Min. °C 26.424.721.717.1 11.27.37.08.7 13.617.021.223.8
Mean Rain mm 20.933.040.51.3 6.411.85.44.1 7.211.418.28.4
    Best time to travel      Ok time to travel      Travel NOT recommended
There are supplies at Oodnadatta and Mt Dare but these locations are not specified on this particular route.

What to See

DownloadDownload Trek
Save time and download all digital map data for this trek (all places are included in the trek download).
This list may not be complete for the entire region. Places listed here are directly located along the plot file associated with this Trek Note. You can locate other nearby Places by browsing the map or searching Places.
There are a total of 11 place entries

Dalhousie Springs - SA Overall Rating: 4/5

Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Disabled Facilites Showers Toilets Water Supply Rubbish Bin,Tip Toilet Camp Free Point of Interest
These hot, fresh water springs are very unique and are an outlet from the Great Artesian Basin. It is the largest known springs and the main spring offers a nice soothing swim ...
Position: -26.42247 135.50308 Altitude: 120m PlaceID: 14328 Updated: 08 Apr 14 03:58

Purnie Bore - SA Overall Rating: 5/5

Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Free
Purnie Bore was sunk by teams during the oil exploration years of the Simpson Desert. As the years went by, leaks in the bore caused a substantial amount of hot water to ...
Position: -26.28503 136.0982 Altitude: 90m PlaceID: 932 Updated: 16 Feb 13 23:26

Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip - SA

Point of Interest Airstrip
Position: -26.31905 136.4429 Altitude: 68m PlaceID: 14323 Updated: 09 Oct 13 07:21

Lone Gum Tree - SA

Historic and Landmark Trees Camp Free Point of Interest
Position: -26.48288 137.38922 Altitude: 36m PlaceID: 14327 Updated: 20 Mar 08 01:48

Approdinna Attora Knolls - SA

Mountain,Peak,Hill
These fragile gypsum outcrops are of great Aboriginal and scientific importance. They were once the highest dune crests in this area....
Position: -26.06667 137.61417 Altitude: 27m PlaceID: 40218 Updated: 02 Jan 09 05:38

Poeppel Corner - SA

Point of Interest
This is the position for the meeting of 3 state boundaries - Queensland meets South Australia and the Northern Territory....
Position: -25.99722 137.9996 Altitude: 25m PlaceID: 937 Updated: 15 Sep 14 09:31

Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line - QLD

Point of Interest
The narrow-leaved hopbush also known as Dodonaea attenuata is a very common shrub that can be found in the dunefields. It has slightly sticky,...
Position: -25.86172 138.06422 Altitude: 42m PlaceID: 77786 Updated: 03 Sep 07 03:01

Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line - QLD

Point of Interest
Gypsum crystals are caused by saline ground water evaporating under the hot desert sun. This crust, which is known as Gypcrete,...
Position: -25.87236 138.16258 Altitude: 29m PlaceID: 77797 Updated: 09 Oct 13 23:54

Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line - QLD

Point of Interest
Georgina Gidgee, also known as Acacia Georginae is the only tree of any size that occurs in the park’s dune system. This tree species grows throughout the Georgina Basin – ...
Position: -25.89828 138.507 Altitude: 35m PlaceID: 77799 Updated: 03 Sep 07 04:02

Spinifex Dune, QAA Line - QLD

Point of Interest
Spinifex, also known as Triodia Basedowii is a perennial grass that is well conditioned to arid environments. This grass species occurs predominantly in the north of the park,...
Position: -25.91022 138.68164 Altitude: 43m PlaceID: 77800 Updated: 03 Sep 07 04:33

Big Red - QLD Overall Rating: 4/5

Point of Interest
Big Red is the largest and most famous dune in the Simpson Desert. It stands approximately 90 metres above sea level and 35 metres above the plain,...
Position: -25.87904 139.05315 Altitude: 59m PlaceID: 938 Updated: 18 Feb 13 06:29

Where to Stay

DownloadDownload Trek
Save time and download all digital map data for this trek (all places are included in the trek download).
This list may not be complete for the entire region. Places listed here are directly located along the plot file associated with this Trek Note. You can locate other nearby Places by browsing the map or searching Places.
There are a total of 3 place entries

Dalhousie Springs - SA Overall Rating: 4/5

Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Disabled Facilites Showers Toilets Water Supply Rubbish Bin,Tip Toilet Camp Free Point of Interest
These hot, fresh water springs are very unique and are an outlet from the Great Artesian Basin. It is the largest known springs and the main spring offers a nice soothing swim ...
Position: -26.42247 135.50308 Altitude: 120m PlaceID: 14328 Updated: 08 Apr 14 03:58

Purnie Bore - SA Overall Rating: 5/5

Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Free
Purnie Bore was sunk by teams during the oil exploration years of the Simpson Desert. As the years went by, leaks in the bore caused a substantial amount of hot water to ...
Position: -26.28503 136.0982 Altitude: 90m PlaceID: 932 Updated: 16 Feb 13 23:26

Lone Gum Tree - SA

Historic and Landmark Trees Camp Free Point of Interest
Position: -26.48288 137.38922 Altitude: 36m PlaceID: 14327 Updated: 20 Mar 08 01:48

Directions

LocationsDistanceDirectionTime
Dalhousie Springs to Spring Creek Delta Bypass 6.49 km E 75° 9 min
Spring Creek Delta Bypass to Freeth Junction 46.96 km E 78° 58 min
Freeth Junction to French Line & Alka Seltzer Bore Access 8.26 km NE 58° 10 min
French Line & Alka Seltzer Bore Access to Purnie Bore 9.36 km E 78° 14 min
Purnie Bore to French Line & Rig Road 27.68 km E 78° 35 min
French Line & Rig Road to Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip 12.3 km SE 149° 13 min
Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip to WAA Line & Glen Joyce Oil Well Access 8.15 km E 90° 12 min
WAA Line & Glen Joyce Oil Well Access to Georges Corner, WAA Line & Rig Road 27.51 km E 91° 46 min
Georges Corner, WAA Line & Rig Road to WAA Line & Rig Road 0.24 km E 70° 3 min
WAA Line & Rig Road to WAA Line & Colson Track 2.08 km E 90° 3 min
WAA Line & Colson Track to Colson Track & Oolarinna Oil Well Access 10.21 km N 339° 18 min
Colson Track & Oolarinna Oil Well Access to French Line & Colson Tk 9.78 km N 340° 18 min
French Line & Colson Tk to French Line & Erabena Tk 52.37 km E 79° 2 hr 8 min
French Line & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Erabena Tk 30.43 km S 163° 51 min
WAA Line & Erabena Tk to Rig Road & Erabena Tk 11.98 km S 165° 20 min
Rig Road & Erabena Tk to Lone Gum Tree 7.25 km S 168° 11 min
Lone Gum Tree to Rig Road & Erabena Tk 7.25 km N 348° 11 min
Rig Road & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Erabena Tk 11.98 km N 345° 20 min
WAA Line & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Knolls Tk 29.88 km E 90° 1 hr 27 min
WAA Line & Knolls Tk to Approdinna Attora Knolls 30.61 km N 354° 1 hr 15 min
Approdinna Attora Knolls to French Line & Knolls Tk 3.86 km N 346° 10 min
French Line & Knolls Tk to French Line & Thomas Track 14.08 km E 85° 38 min
French Line & Thomas Track to Poeppel Corner 26.02 km E 83° 1 hr 10 min
Poeppel Corner to QAA Line & French Line Access 18.71 km N 340° 29 min
QAA Line & French Line Access to QAA Line & K1 Line 3.32 km E 96° 9 min
QAA Line & K1 Line to Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line 9.13 km E 95° 19 min
Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line to Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line 10.14 km E 97° 22 min
Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line to Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line 34.86 km E 95° 55 min
Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line to Spinifex Dune, QAA Line 17.69 km E 94° 26 min
Spinifex Dune, QAA Line to Simpson Desert NP East Boundary 2.11 km E 94° 3 min
Simpson Desert NP East Boundary to QAA Line & Annandale Ruins Access 16.42 km E 84° 27 min
QAA Line & Annandale Ruins Access to Eyre Creek, QAA Line 0.12 km E 98°
Eyre Creek, QAA Line to Big Red 18.72 km E 84° 28 min
Big Red to Birdsville 43.51 km E 94° 1 hr 1 min
Dalhousie Springs to Birdsville 569.47 km     16 hr 46 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.

Related

Nearby ExplorOz Treks

Travel Journals

The following are links to Members' Blogs that contain the words Simpson Desert. Creating Blogs is restricted to Members only. Not a Member? Join here.
There are a total of 110 matching blog entries. Results based on search "Simpson Desert"
Simpson Desert

Simpson Desert

Member: Member - Tony G1   Search Rank: 2912
Created: 15 Feb 2014 11:04  BlogID: 5684  Comments: 0  Views: 384 

Simpson Desert - New Safety Flag Requirements.

Member: Life Member - Mike (SA)   Search Rank: 2912
Simpson Desert Safety Flag Requirement come into force for all vehicles by March 15th 2014. All vehicles must be fitted with a safety flag as detailed below,...
Created: 06 Mar 2014 02:36  BlogID: 5752  Comments: 2  Views: 1496 
Double-Trouble in the Simpson Desert

Double-Trouble (In the Simpson Desert)

Member: The Landy   Search Rank: 2704
Photo: Baz – The Landy Is this the male equivalent of finding yourself in the same dress at that special event? Captured in the middle of no-where,...
Created: 05 Sep 2013 01:40  BlogID: 5308  Comments: 5  Views: 1329 
SIMPSON DESERT: East to West. North to South

SIMPSON DESERT: East to West. North to South

Member: Member - batsy   Search Rank: 2704
First ever blog. Let's see how it goes.
Created: 03 Dec 2013 08:03  BlogID: 5498  Comments: 3  Views: 1252 
Madigan Camp 13

French Line- Madigan Line- Simpson Desert

Member: Member - TEZ611(VIC)   Search Rank: 2496
Our group met up at the Birdsville races 2nd September 2012. Left Birdsville for the Frenchline. The vehicles were a Nissan Patrol 4.2 turbo, a 200 series , an 80 ,...
Created: 05 Oct 2012 00:49  BlogID: 4374  Comments: 7  Views: 3138 
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