I need help

Went through this exercise last year. Cracks in head (Combustion Chambers) were the culprit. The head was condemned as unfixable by machine/reconditioning shop and a new After Market head was supplied with new valves, guides, seats etc etcby the Machine shop.

Simply amazing result - No O/heating and running way better.

Regards

DD

Tanya h1
If the system doesn't suck back the fluid when cold then the radiator cap may no tbe sealing properly.

If the engine spews out coolant shortly after starting and before it has heated the water then it may be a cracked head.
If it only spews it out after it has warmed up and then gets HOT it may just be the thermostat sticking shut and any mechanic with a small amount of ability should be able to boil it in water and see if it opens or not.

I would imagine somewhere there lies the problem.
Cap not good, but not the issue.
Thermostat or cracked head. Possibly!

Ross M

hi tanya
water does not get sucked back to the radiator it is circulated by the water pump has anyone checked to see if the drive belt is missing and/ or the water pump is working remove the radiator cap and watch the water you should be able to see it circulating but only do this when its not boiling has anyone removed the thermostat housing and checked the thermostat condition because it does control the flow and heat
if the water pump is working the head gasket may be letting the compression into the water jacket which will pressurise the radiator water
are the radiator hoses collapsingcheck along the hoses if you squeeze them and they squash easily and are very soft they will more than likely be colaspsing which will stop circulation

have you pulled the dipstick to see if there is any water mixed with the oil if so the oil will be a whitish grey/brown sludgy colour if there is the head gasket is blown
it will be more than likely be water pump/thermostat/belt or hoses problem the mechanics there cant know much if they cant find the problem that's just a few symptoms I can think of on the spur of the moment
cheers

Try driving down a flatish road at ~70-80kmh. This should provide a good flow of air through the radiator with not to much load on the engine. If the temperature is a little high and not in the red I'd say the cooling system is probably ok and so is the engine. What may be the problem though is the cooling fan. The silicone oil in the fan may need replacing. The fan looks like it's working ok but it isn't really pulling any air through the radiator. It's about $10-$20 for the silicone oil and about a 20 minute job to replace it.
Google on the LCOOL website for Toyota silicone fan replacement.

We found this the hard way after removing radiators, replacing thermostats, removing heads, replacing head gaskets etc. It's a pretty common Toyota problem we discovered after a couple of days in the sun at the back of the Roma caravan park pulling a Tojo apart :(

Tanya, seeing any oily residue in the coolant??

tanya, If you don't have a "mechanic" that can go through a process of elimination and test for the faults that have been listed already you really need to find a mechanic that has got a little more ability.
It 'ain't rocket science to go through the possible problem areas listed above and eliminate them one by one. Do you know what they have done so far other than playing musical chairs with the radiators?

Cheers
Pop

Hi Tanya h1
I had the same problem with my 75 series Troopy, I found by changing the viscus coupling( genuine toyota part) never had a problem again,in saying that I might have been lucky, just a suggestion only. Use genuine parts only if possible, you will pay a bit more, the quality is much better than aftermarket parts.
Cheers
Ian

Have you done a pressure test on the system?
Tim

G'day Tanya,
Get a mechanic to do these 2 pressure tests.
The engine needs to be cold for this.

Remove the radiator cap & Connect pressure tester to radiator in its place . Pump up the Pressure tester to required pressure & watch the tester gauge to see if the system holds pressure or falls away. This will indicate a leak somewhere internally or externally if the pressure falls away.

Now to narrow things down a bit. With pressure still in the system get someone to start the motor. An immediate fast rise in pressure indicates a head gasket or cracked head.
Get the mechanic to watch the gauge during this test because the pressure will rise very quickly & the gauge could be damaged. You will need to shut the motor off immediatly if this is the case.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Stu

Cracked head. Moderatly common