Colorado front pads

Submitted: Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 16:14
ThreadID: 101385 Views:3924 Replies:3 FollowUps:3
This Thread has been Archived
Hi all,

Asking for a bit of advice if I may - I have a 2011 Holden Colorado 4x4 Diesel and the front pads are close to metal. I havnt changed out front pads for years.
My question? - is this still a straight forward job? Is there anything I need to be aware of?

Any and all advice much appreciated, as usual these things happen at the worst time. Had a service 4000km ago and my mechanic said they would be right till next service, wrong. Need to go to work Monday night so have to do them myself.

Thanks

Croc
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - Ian F (WA) - Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 18:00

Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 18:00
Hi Croc,
The only problem is the ABS settings. Ask your mechanic, you must be very hard on your brakes to wear that quick!
Ian
AnswerID: 507871

Follow Up By: Croc nsw - Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 18:31

Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 18:31
Thanks Ian, they look fairly straight forward but i dont know. Yeah I tow a boat without trailer brakes and with all the camping gear it makes the brakes work hard on the ute. Upgrading boat soon so will make sure new trailer has brakes.
0
FollowupID: 785173

Reply By: Ross M - Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 18:58

Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 18:58
Croc nsw
Your ute must be an auto, heavily loaded and driven up to corners and then the brake used to wash off speed to wear them out so soon.

Heavily loaded and towing an unbraked boat trailer would/should mean you drive to the conditions. Could it be a long boat ramp requiring lots of braking?

My cruiser did over 200,000km on original pads and shoes. Did towing and also used in mountains too.

Colorado brake pads are quite easy to change and abs isn't part of the caliper.
You are only changing pads not rotors.

Ross M
AnswerID: 507873

Follow Up By: Croc nsw - Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 21:02

Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 21:02
Yea only up to 85000km, do a lot of towing, yes its an auto and I dont drive like an idiot. Its an old boat and trailer, probably should have trailer brakes to help. Thanks
0
FollowupID: 785193

Reply By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 20:13

Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 20:13
Hi. Most modern vehicles use a sacrificial brake system where they wear the rotors as well as the pads. If there is much of a "lip" on the outer edge of the disc rotor I would just put a cheap set of pads in to keep you going (usually $40-$50) Replace the rotors and fit something like Bendix 4wd Pads when you can then later. When pushing the pistons back into the calipers, leave one side untouched, (ie,still assembled) do the first side and push the piston in very slowly.(A G'clamp sometimes helps) That way you will not push the other side piston out and the fluid will go back up to the master cylinder. You may get excess fliud back up to the top if it has been topped up in the past but it is better than getting air in the system from undoing bleeder nipples. (Have had so many people call me to ask how to bleed them after undoing bleeder nipples over the years) Cheers,Bob.
AnswerID: 507878

Follow Up By: Croc nsw - Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 21:08

Saturday, Mar 30, 2013 at 21:08
Cheers mate, thanks for the advice. Rotors not lipped, just started hearing a high pitched squeal and thought it sounded like a wear indicator. Pulled a front wheel off this arvo and there is not much material left. Not down to metal but just touching the little tab beside the pad material.

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated.
1
FollowupID: 785195

Sponsored Links