Upgrading HJ60 2H engine with another better engine

Another option:
I have heard that Toyota have surplus 1HZ engines on pallets wrapped in plastic. They are the non-turbo diesel as fitted to 80 and 100 series Landcruisers. They are $3,000.
This is what a work mate bought so i'm just going off what he got.

For a brand new engine, with an after market turbo kit, I think you get a lot for your money, for around $6,500!

Mountainman

Concerning engine prone to overheating .. would you please let me know if you meant 12HT is prone to overheating or is 2H prone to overheating? I have found that my 2H was prone to overheating.

12ht will have no overheating issues as its direct injection.
it can handle alot of tweaking, fuel and turbo mods and no heating issues.
but you need to use a 12ht radiator if your going this way.

i dont know the climate your driving in, if its warm, or hot you will need to run the 12ht radiator.

the 2h has poor cooling because of the indirect injection.
and because theyre generaly a slug to drive, your more inclined to push them, and thats why they overheat.

in an ideal world, if toyota brought the 2h they should have fitted a pyro guage.
it tells you if your pushing the engine too far, and you back off, soo engine remains in safe range.
the guage is installed in the exhaust manifold, and monitors gas temps..
when you see it reach a certain temp, and its climbing more, thats when you back off, and try to save the engine.

2h are well known for it, the pyro is the safest bet to minimise overheating.
the heat just cant get rid of the heat enough.
a turbo will make the engine more efficient and run cooler, but follow the pyro as well..

I never had any overheating issues with the 2H or 12HT I use to get the radiator pressure flushed every year because I done a lot of beach driving to prevent any chance of heating problems

Years ago I had a HJ61/ 12HT Cruiser pulling a 24 caravan(2450Kg) in summer without any heating problems but the temperature was not 45 to 49deg C.

I would seriously consider the 12ht, with a 4 core radiator if it will fit and maybe a bonnet scoop for extra cooling. But do not know what impact the bonnet scoop will have.

Would also look at a Snorkle, they I understand increase full economy and may make the engine not work as hard.

Peter

I will then go ahead with 12HT.. I have found a good used 12HT but it has faulty turbo and needs replacement .. my mechanic suggests that he can provide gerrit turbo from another used engine and modify it .. will this work? or can i buy a better after market turbo?

you can get the turbo modified and push out some pretty healthy numbers, like 450nm of torque.

go with the 12ht, handle the heat real easy.

other engines 1hdt and 1hd ft will require some work to fit,
12ht will bolt straight in.

2h radiator IS DIFFERENT to 12ht radiator.
im looking at fitting the 12ht radiator in mine.
its a 100mm wider and was told the same 100 higher.

My local mechanic in Pakistan thinks the existing HJ60 radiator will work fine on 12HT.. i guess its better not to take chances and get better or larger radiator...

Can i make existing turbo work? from where can i get a better turbo?

send your turbo away to be renewed, or while its their have them do some magic on it.
dont know in your country, if you have people who have the R&D into the turbo internals.
in australia we have numorous companies that can do mods..

Ah so the radiator is different definitely would put the correct one in. The 12HT isn't prone to overheating I never had any problem with my sahara which has a tare weight 2,300kg and our temps is Aus can get just as hot. Even sitting on 130kph at 3,000rpm in the Northern Territory which is the speed limit now days no overheating issues never had trouble towing boats or caravans or beach driving the GQ patrol I have now have inherit cooling problems but not the toyota's. The 12HT is a good motor you'll be happy with you choice good luck with it.

Great.. i am purchasing the engine today. since i cannot find its turbo here can you suggest me any one in australia who sells these ? I was told turbo of will Toyota CT26 OEM will fit in and wanted to confirm this as CT26 is available in my country.

I wanted to also recheck its engine as was told it was rebuilt few months back and used for few months.

I wanted to the mechanic to perform the compression test? How is this compression test done as i wanted to supervise it.. any compression result numbers that i should look for?

Also wanted to know how do i check in radiator for head gaskit leaks

Also wanted to know if i need to ask if he has put sleeves in it or bored the block? Will that makes any difference?

While engine is idling what noise should i watch out for? I was planning to disconnect all accessories i.e. water pump, alternator, power steering pump and listen to the engine idle. What noise should i watch out for?

Thanx

You won't be disappointed with your 12HT. Great engine.
Now to answer your questions...
- A compression test can be done a few ways. The common way is to take all injectors out and screw in a pressure guage into one cylinder at a time. You turn the key to rotate the engine and the compression will be read on the guage as cylinder pressure.
Now compare the readings. Around 10% variation isn't too bad. Less is best.
The next step is to squirt some engine oil into each cylinder. This temporarily seals the piston rings while you crank the engine over again for another reading.
On your lowest reading cylinder, if the pressure reading increases, it means you were losing pressure past your piston rings, which if a big difference, means an engine rebuild. If the pressure doesnt change then it means you are losing pressure past your valves, which means a cylinder head overhaul.
Another way of checking compression is to do a leak-down test.
This is simply removing each injector again, and screwing in a fitting that is connected to an air compressor with a pressure guage.
You pump in, say, 200psi, and rotate the crankshaft via the harmonic balancer until all valves are closed. Each cylinder should hold pressure. If they don't, simply put your ear to the exhaust to see if it is leaking past the exhaust valve, put your ear near the air filter to see if it's leaking past the inlet valve, and remove your oil filler cap and listen there for rushing air which means your piston rings are not sealing.

For head gasket leaks, you need to warm the engine up so the thermostat is open and you are getting coolant flowing through your radiator. With your radiator cap off, look at the coolant flowing- if there are hundreds of timny bubbles in it, then your head gasket is blown between your cylinder and water jacket- so cylinder pressure is blowing into your cooling system.
If your head gasket is blown between your cylinder and oil gallery, then you can test that by removing youir oil filler cap and starting the engine. Excessive fumey air being blown out is an indication of this.

As for sleeves in the block... every aluminium block engine I know of has cast iron sleeves installed. Tour 12HT is a cast iron block so i'm pretty sure it shouldnt have sleeves. The only way I know of is to remove the cylinder head and see if it has been sleeved. Mosrt rebuilt engines are bored 30thou oversize, and up to 60thou oversize bores with larger pistonms to suit. You can get marginally more power due to larger capacity, but your engine can run warmer due to less cast iron as a heat sink before it reaches the water passages.
Personally, I wouldnt even consider or be worried about cylinder sleeves. If they are fitted and you have good compression then all is good. If they arent fitted and you have good compression, then all is good also.

If you listen to the engine running, leave all accessories connected first. Look for white smoke on start-up- less is best- and it should idle nice and low- around 600rpm.
If the injector pump needs a rebuild (BIG money), then the common way to keep the engine ideling well is to increase the idle revs. So if its idling high, you could have a worn-out injector pump that is being masked up by higher revs.

I hope this helps!

As for your turbo, there are an infinite amount of different turbos with different sized compressors, turbines and airflow ratios. Matching a turbo to an engine takes a LOT of research, testing and advice.
My advice to you is to have your factory turbo rebuilt, and you know it will suit your engine perfectly.

Apologies its CT26 turbo charger