Pourable, flexible gap filler??
Submitted: Monday, Jul 22, 2013 at 20:32
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luxtourer
Hi forumites, anyone have suggestions for a product that could be used to fill up a "well" that's been formed by putting a new canopy on the back of the ute tray? The "well" is only about 1cm wide, 180cm long, and needs to be filled to a depth of about 2cm so that water, dust etc doesn't get into the space. Main problem is that the space I'd like to fill is about 30cm down the 1cm gap, so no chance of getting the usual silicone sealers/fillers into the space. Hence need something pourable that then sets to a flexible but waterproof filler that would just let water/dust etc come straight out the sides.
There are products like asphalt based crack fillers or epoxys and others, but what would be best?
Thanks
John
Reply By: The Bantam - Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 08:49
Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 08:49
The "well" is only about 1cm wide, 180cm long, and needs to be filled to a depth of about 2cm
lux Mate that is a big hole to fill.
to put it bluntly...forget anything you will find at a hardware store.
yes you will have problems getting it to flow down there
yes you will have a problem with that volume of most sealers staying flexible AND adhered
yes you will have problems with most sealers with shrinkage
yes you will have problems with most sealers with long term weather durability
AND
among other problems you will have a problem with anything runny enough to get in there running straight out the bottom if it is not a completely sealed cavity at the bottom.
NOW
The place that may have the solution is "Barnes supply", they are an Art and Special Effects supplier with a fabulous array of resins fuillers and mouldable stuff, ranging from dental alginate to so very specy concrete aditives.
They have branches in most capitol cities and do mail order.
People who
shop there range from school children with an art project, creative types moulding craft objects and wood workers to, makers of prostetic limbs, special effect artists and builders of sex toy prototypes.
they have a couple of soft flexible resins that may be suitable....and you could make it any colour you like.
cheers
AnswerID:
515225
Follow Up By: luxtourer - Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 17:28
Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 17:28
Thanks - nowhere near one of their stores, but had a look at the website, and maybe their polyurethane mold fillers would be the go, but info is scarce, and whether I can get such chemicals sent thru normal freight I will have to find out.
Cheers,
John
FollowupID:
794455
Reply By: member - mazcan - Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 14:00
Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 14:00
hi
john
is it possible to drill holes in the side of the so called
well /cavity
you can then put a length of flexible pvc tube onto a sikaflex silicon nozzle and force silicon through the holes into the well/cavity until its completely full it wont run out and will set in time to stop dust/water entry for ever
because I don't fully understand how this well/cavity has been created by the fitting of a rear cab without photo evidence
i'm only suggesting above based on imagination and my suggestion maybe of no help at all
cheers
AnswerID:
515240
Follow Up By: luxtourer - Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 17:35
Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 17:35
Hi mazcan,
not completely sure of the terminology, but the cavity is formed between the front of the canopy, the tray headboard (steel, about 30cm high) and the side rails (2 cm high). So you can see a bit of light right through from one side to the other above the side rails, but just very difficult to get anything down between the canopy and headboard. I can't see how I could reliably get anything into this space unless it can be poured into it from above.
Cheers
John
FollowupID:
794456
Reply By: Les - PK Ranger - Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 21:04
Tuesday, Jul 23, 2013 at 21:04
You could try a couple of things.
1. Spray some body shcutz under pressure into the spce ntil it runs through, then tape off the bottom, top off and let set.
2. Silicone can be made runny by adding shellite (white spirits).
We seam seal bushwalking tents etc with a thinned down mix, so you could do this in a jar and pout in, block off when it gets to the bottom, top off, and let set.
Maybe do a
test to see you're happy with the set off, when mixed to a brushable motor oil type viscosity, it goes off just like normal silicone, so should be fine if a little thicker.
AnswerID:
515269
Follow Up By: luxtourer - Wednesday, Jul 24, 2013 at 21:20
Wednesday, Jul 24, 2013 at 21:20
Hi Les
Thanks. Any particular type of silicone? It's what I would use if I could get at the bottom of the channel.
Cheers
John
FollowupID:
794580
Follow Up By: Les - PK Ranger - Thursday, Jul 25, 2013 at 07:28
Thursday, Jul 25, 2013 at 07:28
Definitely NEUTRAL CURE silicone . . . the other ones for glass have that strong vinegar smell and cure by acid catylist so avoid that.
You can get neutral cure in the usual colours, translucent, black would likely be best.
Probalby Dow Corning would be readily found, but not some of the ones like Selleys All Clear, they are a different make up.
From memory Bunnings have cartridges of neutral cure.
FollowupID:
794595
Follow Up By: luxtourer - Thursday, Aug 01, 2013 at 08:51
Thursday, Aug 01, 2013 at 08:51
Hi Les
Well I've given the silicone a go, and it seems to be working OK. Two 300g cartridges plus a bit more than half a litre of white spirit, mixed
well, then poured in with a funnel and tubing.
The top has set as normal, though I think underneath it's going to take quite some time to set. That probably doesn't matter though, as long as it all remains flexible and stuck to the sides. It will cetainly keep the water and dust at bay for a while, though.
Thanks
John
FollowupID:
795007
Follow Up By: Les - PK Ranger - Thursday, Aug 01, 2013 at 09:29
Thursday, Aug 01, 2013 at 09:29
Cheers
John, glad that worked for you.
FollowupID:
795010