Failed fuel pump on 105 series 1HZ diesel Landcruiser??

Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 02:05
ThreadID: 103950 Views:17621 Replies:6 FollowUps:7
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I was in Broome the other week and out of the blue one day my Landcruiser wouldn't start. It would turn over but would not fire. After leaving it for a while (1 hr) it started. Never has that happened before and the car has 140,000km on the clock.
Then every time after that moment when we turned it off it would not restart until the engine cooled down. Puzzled by this weird event we called the RAA/RAC/RACV out to our caravan park as we were supposed to be leaving for Gibb River Road the next day.
The RAC technician which came out to us diagnosed this as a failed fuel pump after carefully eliminating other possibilities and informed that there was a reconditioned fuel pump at his workshop and he could do the changeover over the next few days at around $4500.....
We were taken back by this surprise diagnosis and the following day rang Broome Toyota who told me it would be 3 weeks before they could even look at it.
To be continued....
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Reply By: abqaiq - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 04:19

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 04:19
I had a pump fail on my 2003 turbo Troopy. Replacement pump was~$2500 minus exchange. My shop guys said uncle Tim you can pull a wrench as well as we can get to it [they are younger the me, Ha]. You may need some Toyota experienced advisor but the swap is not all that hard. No need to remove the radiator but you do need to take off the timing cover as the pump is gear driven [replace at least the timing chain tensioner while in there]. Working from a Troopy. Note the marks on the pump drive gears as that is the critical timing mark to match on the re-installation. Behind the pump between it and the engine there are very stiff rubber pads [two from memory] to get out [hardest part of the job]. The pump is bolted on the outside and on the engine side [where the rubbers were]. You need a short and long extension bar on you socket wrench as the spacing is to tight to get at the bolts in one go so add on the extension as you feed the socket in to the hidden bolts. Basically a simple bolt up operation. Don't tighten everything down until you set the timing [rotating/tilting the pump to the marks] be sure to get the timing marks right. Don't tighten the fuel lines up to tight [follow the torque specs on everything]. Plan on two days -one pump out, one pump in.

From the literature -Those Denso pumps are apparently not biodiesel friendly so stay away from it. I was tempted to try Bio until reading some articles.
Hope this helps
Abqaiq
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Follow Up By: Ozhumvee - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 07:21

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 07:21
I know of a few 1hz's that have done the same thing, some at far less k's than yours and the problem was the same on all of them, the injection pump is worn and requires a rebuild or replacement.
The most common cause of failure was the driver letting the engine cough and run out of fuel on one tank before changing over, the pump requires a constant supply of diesel to lubricate and cool it, no fuel even for the 30 secs or so when swapping tanks on the highway causes excessive wear.
The swap to low sulphur fuel doesn't help as the fuel loses lubricity. Contrary to popular opinion good quality biodiesel actually increases lubricity and prevents wear. The reason people reckon bio wrecks fuels systems and pumps is because it is a very effective cleaner removing accumulated deposits like varnish etc increasing tolerances in worn components and eventually causing problems like you are experiencing.
Exposing if you like the true state of the fuel system.
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

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Reply By: Member - Tony H (touring oz) - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 08:01

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 08:01
I seem to recall hearing about a similar problem...... Have you checked www.lcool.org do a search there in the 100 series section.
Doesnt that model have an electric (solenoid) fuel cut off?
I would be suspecting there is a problem there as it is temp related as you say?
Hope you sort this out soon & keep us up to speed on developments :-)
Insanity doesnt run in my family.... it gallops!

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Reply By: Mark111 - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 09:00

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 09:00
funnily enough i was in broome last year when the same thing happened to us , couple of people said we needed a new pump but in the end it was a dirty connection situated on the passenger side of the engine bay , cleaned up the bits and then sealed it from moisture dirt etc.Hope this helps...
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Reply By: Jack - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 10:49

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 10:49
Been-Everywhereman,

But you have not been every where on the internet. If you had spent a brief time on the internet researching you present problem you would find that the issue is related to either the fuel cut solenoid or the emobiliser that sits on top of the fuel pump (based upon your description). There are simple ways around these problems if they occur. If you travel in remote areas, you should be aware of issues that are relevent to your particuliar vehicle and not post threads that are missleading because you don't understand. Even your simple Gregories manual details the checking process to eliminate this problem. Your fuel pump should be good for 300,000km's ...............but by all means hand over $4,500 for a pump rebuild!
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Follow Up By: Axle - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 11:19

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 11:19
He did state the Technician checked out a few possibilities.as to what might be going on,Before he started to talk about pump replacement


Axle.
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Follow Up By: Mark&Sue - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 11:35

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 11:35
Hi definately sounds like the immobilliser because as you stated if you leave it to cool down it will start, if you can get an ignition feed wire to the fuel pump cut out switch bypassing the immobilliser switch on top of injector pump, you should have no more problems best place to pick ignition feed is from wiper motor. Hope this helps , same thing happened to a mates patrol last year down in Victoria & I had to explain to an Auto Elec over the phone what to do to bypass, usually the dealers wont do it this way they just replace whole injector pump.
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 12:07

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 12:07
Jack,
Instead of an aggressive reply, a helpfull word giving your experiences might be more appropriate.
You may well be right but there is always a better way to say it.
Ian
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Follow Up By: Ross M - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 18:38

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 18:38
The strange thing is, how does a mechanical pump which has been deemed to be unserviceable and won't run the vehicle, suddenly become serviceable again when cold?

Logic does indicate it can't be the mechanical bits and is highly likely to be the immobilizer or an electrical component or connection.

I haven't seen a stuffed injector pump heal itself, otherwise any old injector pump should be able to 'heal' after a cool down.

A remote area Technician who looked at it should be aware of the common nature of faults with that model or are they a rarely seen vehicle?

It is good advice put forward, forcefully, so the owner does become aware and some familiarity with the vehicles common known failings, will save him large amounts of money he possibly doesn't need to spend.
Most repair places are happy to return his pump to him with a new component attached and charge him for the whole rebuild which they didn't need to do or in fact didn't even do. It is the motoring industry we are talking about and it is buyer beware.

I wonder if engine Big ends repair them selves when cold and are ready for another 500,000km after that all important rest.

Ross M
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Follow Up By: Mark&Sue - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 22:47

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 22:47
Hi Ross the immobiliser switch on top of injector pump is an electronic module and as such is very much affected by heat, therefore can fail to supply power to the fuel cut out switch when you turn the key on so therefore engine has no fuel and will not fire. Most electronic modules under the bonnet of the modern motor vehicle fail when hot some fail all the time and others in their early part of failure will work again when cold. If you can just get someone to test for power at the cut out switch when vehicle will not start, if there is no power then you either have a faulty engine immobiliser module or a key reader problem. And like I said earlier then you just need to supply ignition feed to the fuel cut out solenoid. This is the identical problem we had with the mates Patrol last year start up first drive for a while turn car off then when trying to restart it wouldn't start till it cooled.
Good luck best bet would be to get an Auto Elec have a look.
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Reply By: disco driver - Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 18:58

Tuesday, Aug 20, 2013 at 18:58
Your mention of Broome RAC set an alarm bell off, I vaguely remembered some adverse comments on this forum about them
Check out thread 101375 and make up your own mind.
I've also heard similar comments from others I know particularly about their prices.

Disco.
AnswerID: 516801

Reply By: Been-Everywhereman - Thursday, Aug 22, 2013 at 01:11

Thursday, Aug 22, 2013 at 01:11
Thanks to everybody's replies "even Jack".

The immobiliser was the problem.
This device totally covers the fuel solenoid and it is impossible to get to the power wire for the solenoid without removing the immobiliser.
The immobiliser has 2 shear bolts which are quite difficult to extract to be able to remove this device.
Once I removed the oil filter I could drill out the 2 shear bolts, remove the immobiliser and pick up and power the solenoid wire.
Bit of a pain....
AnswerID: 516885

Follow Up By: MUZBRY- Life member(Vic) - Thursday, Aug 22, 2013 at 07:23

Thursday, Aug 22, 2013 at 07:23
Good morning Been-
I'm glad it all worked out for you in the end. I too have a 105 and was very interested . I must get Murray R to have a look at mine and maybe bypass for peace of mind . Enjoy the rest of your trip...



Muzbry
Great place to be Mt Blue Rag 27/12/2012

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