Comment: Suspension

I have a 2010 NT Pajero DiD and had a suspension upgrade done; coils & shocks. I noticed on the original front suspension that there was a rubber washer/spacer between the bottom of the coil and where it sits on the strut. The new one does not ie metal on metal. Is this normal for OEM suspension or has it been missed. I have EFS coils and TJM XGS Gold shocks. The main reason I ask is since having the lift done I now have a clatter/rattle coming from the front end which is very noticable upto 80kph after which road/wind noise tends to mask it. I have checked that all is tight and there is no sloppiness in bushes etc. It is quite frustrating.
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Reply By: John and Regina M - Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 16:06

Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 16:06
You could also try the Pajero forum.
AnswerID: 517258

Follow Up By: Member - Chris_K - Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 16:11

Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 16:11
Hi Graham

A friend of mine had the same issue with a TJM suspension mod to his Pajero - the rattle was quite noticeable after the work. It's not normal - and you should take the car back to TJM and have it fixed.


FollowupID: 796898

Follow Up By: Member - Graham D2 - Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 18:21

Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 18:21
Hi John & Regina - have posted on the forum and am awaiting a reply there also. Graham
FollowupID: 796909

Reply By: Member - Chris_K - Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 16:13

Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 16:13
...apologies, hit the "Followup" button instead of the "Reply". :)
AnswerID: 517260

Follow Up By: Member - Graham D2 - Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 18:19

Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 18:19
Thanks Chris, have been back to TJM but they can't find the problem. How was your friends resolved? Graham
FollowupID: 796908

Follow Up By: Member - Chris_K - Friday, Aug 30, 2013 at 08:28

Friday, Aug 30, 2013 at 08:28
Hi Graham

It's a long story - so here goes...he did the suspension upgrade late last year before heading to the Cape with us. From day one, the suspension rattled, and he initially took it back to TJM - "not our problem" was the result. After coming back from the Cape (still rattling), he took the vehicle to Mitsubishi, who replaced the rear shocks with another brand (name escapes me at present) which reduced the noise markedly. Unfortuntely, he had to pay for that though. He was then advised by Mits to go back to TJM and have the front ones checked. After "arguing" the point they replaced the front ones - and "hey presto" no more noise. The issue all along was faulty shocks...but he had to first pay to have the rear ones replaced, to see what the issue was.

One of the issues with rattles (especially in Pajero's) is that Mits have done lots of work on noise deadening - which is great - but it's really difficult to actually trace where the rattle comes from. In the end, the deal with TJM was - "replace them free of charge - if it solves the problem, then it stays fee, if not, I'll pay for the job".

He is in Brisbane - so if you happen to be here, I can give you the name of the TJM store that sorted it out for him?


FollowupID: 796946

Reply By: mkey l - Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 17:07

Thursday, Aug 29, 2013 at 17:07
maybe your account will disable. try to register again.
AnswerID: 517263

Reply By: patsproule - Friday, Aug 30, 2013 at 06:02

Friday, Aug 30, 2013 at 06:02
I have fitted several kits to the gen 3/4 Pajeros. There are rubber spring seats from the factory front and rear. They tend to chew out fairly easily, particularly in vehicles that have been in sand and mud as the grit gets between the spring and seat and eats them. I have seen them near stuffed on factory coils at 25,000km. Having said that, the loss of them does not tend to cause noise as you describe. I have heard of a few of the cheaper shocks making a noise though and some of the big bore ones can rub on the upper control arm if not shimmed over a bit during install. Have also heard of problems if the springs aren't oriented correctly but that is only the rear - the front can only go one way as they are tapered. Another one is cheap lower bushes used in aftermarket front shocks. These two rubber bushes take the entire weight of the front of the vehicle, and if it's a diesel (heavier than the V6) with steel bar and maybe a winch they work very hard and the bad ones chew out in no time flat. You can get these bushes replaced if that is the issue.

Generally I fit Bilstein shocks and Lovells springs and am yet to have an issue with any of them. They come highly regarded from owners on the Pajero club forums. Last set of Billies I swapped in mine had 200,000km on them and I only changed due to age, not serviceability issues.


AnswerID: 517292

Reply By: NTVRX - Friday, Aug 30, 2013 at 20:28

Friday, Aug 30, 2013 at 20:28
I took my Pajero to TJM....they fitted XGS shocks & then couldn't work out why the vehicle was squeeking in the front shocks!!! So loud you couldn't drive it.....told them to take their stuff off & fit Koni adjustables......never a problem!!!
AnswerID: 517369

Reply By: The Bantam - Saturday, Aug 31, 2013 at 17:53

Saturday, Aug 31, 2013 at 17:53
The lesson here folks is to buy shocks and springs from a company that is a long standing, suspension manufacturer of some repute, not a a high margin marketing company who sticks a badge on components manufacturerd by...who???..and sells them at a high margin thru franchised dealers.


AnswerID: 517422

Reply By: Member - Andrew - Saturday, Aug 31, 2013 at 21:06

Saturday, Aug 31, 2013 at 21:06
Hi Graham

Just some thoughts
On shocks using a stud mount rattles can be caused by incorrect tolerances in a couple of ways.
The shaft is not centered in the mounting hole.
This can occur because;
• The shock is not centered when the nuts are done up.
• The shaped washers that the mount rubbers fit into are the wrong size/shape for the rubbers used and therefore do not hold the shocker shaft centered in the hole.
• The mount rubbers are the wrong ones for the washers and therefore do not hold the shocker shaft centered in the hole.
These faults allow the shaft to hit the side of the mount hole causing noise and eventual damage to the shock shaft and mounting hole.
The mounting shaft is bigger than the original shocks
• All of the above
• The bigger shaft does not have enough clearance in a standard hole to allow for all movement
The use of stiffer shocks (or hitting big bumps with knackered shocks) has bent the mounting bracket containing the mounting hole. The misaligned hole reduces the shaft clearance.
These issues can also arise with eyelet mounts but they seem to cause less problems.
Of course shocks can also have internal knocking usually related to valve problems
It usually pays to have a close look at the way the manufacturer set up the original mounting system. Top quality units like Billies and Koni’s have usually taken all this into account but I have seen many other brands where the the quality of the shock is not reflected in the mounting bits and pieces.
AnswerID: 517435

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