BJ40 advice

Will - I think you'll find all the 40 series have tops that can be unbolted. They are not classed as a "removeable top" because I think you'll find it's illegal to drive the vehicle with the top removed, as the roof is essentially a structural support member.

Driving around without the roof on will cause excessive movement and flexing in other adjoining panels, and will cause cracks to appear in those panels.

I know a lot of "bush" or "station" operators work the 40 series without tops, and often without sides as well. However, these people are operating off-road and don't need to comply with road regulations and laws.

A plate welded to the centre pillar to hold the top on sounds pretty suss to me - and I doubt whether it would pass inspection.
I'd suspect rust issues behind the plate - as is common with many older 40 series Toyotas.

This doesn't mean that the vehicle is dangerous or can't be repaired. It just means that the pillar may need to be properly repaired with a rusty section to be cut out and a piece of steel welded back into it.

The 40 series are bulletproof, like all old Toyotas. The SWB versions give a choppy ride at speed over bumps in the road, as compared to the LWB models. The advantage of the SWB models is that they are lighter and more nimble off-road.

Cheers - Ron.

Will,

If there is a join running around both sides and rear of the cabin, and roughly in line with the door handles, then you should be able to remove the top. Don't know how many bolts there are to remove, but wouldn't take too long.

Those old FJ40's were used as bull catchers, in the Top End, so the 'screen, top and all unwanted "stuff" was soon removed.



This look like the one, Will?

Bob.

The old 40 and 45 Landcruiser bodies had the roof, side panels, windscreen panel and most of the other panels bolted together like the old Landrovers. If someone has added an extra bit of metal to hold the roof or upper panels on I would suspect a bodge up because of rust issues. I would have a real good look at the body in general.
As others have said the mechanicals are pretty bullet proof.

Cheers
Pop

Hi Will,
As others have said, all FJ /BJ 40,42,43,45,47 series cruisers (after 1963 in the case of the 45) had top sides and roof sections that have 10mm bolts holding them down. They are a fiberglass roof with steel gutters which are more often than not rusted especially on the inside. All body panels and the lower body tub are available in full fibreglass, steel or alloy if you want to spend the money. Steel patch panels are also available. I have thinned out my collection atm as I only have a '68 FJ40, a '77 FJ45 and a '58 FJ28. I have owned 66 cruisers and other than getting a compression test done on it before buying, check from the underside, the front chassis cross member as they can appear solid from the front but are nearly rotten from the rear or underneath. Check underneath with a torch the condition of the chassis floors and up inside the rear quarters where 3 panels are spot welded together for rust or bog.
Also sign up (free) to ih8mud.com (U.S) for anything 40 related as Lcool refuse to have 40's on their site.

Hey Guys,
Firstly must say thank you all very much for your posts. Although I absolutely love Cruisers and in particular these models I am not made of money, have never brought a car like this before I am aware it is risky which is why your input is so appreciated.
BobY - Ill upload some photos.
Ive had a diesel mechanic look over it and thought it was tidy. (small oil leak/needs new hose)

Body as you can see is fine, besides some surface rust. Have checked the chasis and it looks ok too. Main concern is the pillar I mentioned.

Had another look today and its not as bad as first thought. My house mate is a welder and thinks he can cut it out, place a peice in that fits and weld/sand/spray it back to good. Sorry if I sent wrong message but I have dont want to take the top off, just make it good to pass road worthy.

It has 245,000 on the clock, which the guy says is genuine.. was worried it may have gone around the clock.

Does anyone know how it goes with the 4 speed. Ive driven it and it was okay, but not up to 100kms. Im not after a speed demon and happy to putt around. Just dont want something that isnt going to crap itself after a couple of hours on the highway (not that often).

A couple of my friends have brought confusion into the ranks by asking me why I dont just buy one with some V8 in it. As it will be powerful etc.. less issues they reckon.

I like the fact it has original motor. I also like it because it is plain, no bull bar I have to tear off. I can put everything like UHF etc in myself, how I want too. I work as an Arborist and it would be the perfect vehicle to work out of.

In your guys opinion (as much as you can give from seeing a couple of pics) am I walking into a world of pain? I am happy to spend a bit of money on it.

Guy wants $5000. No Rego. No Road worthy.

What do you guys think?
Cheers
Dang it cant upload as not a financial member - will sign up then post.

Will, as far as I can remember, and it has been a long time since I have had a few different 40 series, the fibreglass roof was riveted to a steel channel.
That channel was in turn bolted to the sides and the screen if I remember right.
The sealer between the fibreglass and the channel cracked and then water accumulated in that channel. It then eventually rusted out.
One of the main causes of this was if there was a gutter grip pack rack or roof bars fitted at any stage, and the stresses caused the sealer to crack and break up.
So effectively there was not much holding the roof on when that channel rusted out.
Quite often they rusted out around the bottom of the windscreen frame and the cowl.
Take a strong magnet with you when you check it out and run around those areas.
cheers
Dave

Thank you everyone for your help. All the best