Another rear drawer question....

Brother in law used folded aluminium sheet.

19 is pretty thick. If used for the top is there a metal rib support to carry weight of gear on top to stop the inevitable bow downwards? You sit on the 19 and see how much it bows then decide the future.
16 would easily do with a suitable rib for the weight carrying. Especially if two drawers

The sides, have you Swiss cheesed it with a hole saw to save weight?
I made my own for a 60 series, 2 drawers centre support and there are 3" holes everywhere to save weight.

After seeing and reading of the professional 100kg or more drawers I instantly thought, lighter, why do people accept so much weight.
My two drawers are made from 9mm ply and just slide on the carpet, NO runners of any sort. Rope handles and are held shut by a catch on each.

Chriso,
I just made up a storage unit for my io. I actually used plastic 40 litre tubs. Why?
They double as seats, if something leaks - the leak is contained, they can be used to wash dishes, have a sponge bath in, can be pulled out to hose out the dust, they're cheap, light weight and easy enough to replace if they break.
I used the food grade type...not those flimsy cheap as chips things that go brittle in the heat.
Space is a huge factor in an io so I had to look at items with muti functions.

Fab

Depends on what you're putting in them. I've never used or needed more than 9mm marine ply for drawers - used to store camping gear, food etc. But if you wanted to put lots of heavy tools and shackles or handwinch, you might want to go 12mm for the base.

Also depends on the runners. If you use those 100kg angled runners which sit under and support the drawer, then you can get away with lighter materials. If you use the Hettich type (full extension) that screw into the side of the drawers, then the sides need to be at least 9mm. I use sikaflex in addition to the screws

Also depends on construction. Glue and screw is pretty strong. 9 mm is the thinnest material I can use if drilling screws into it sideways. Need thin 6g screws. I prefer not to use quad in the corners because it can eat into the space.

I use the marine ply these days rather than ext ply. At Bunnings the marine stuff is $60 for an 8x4 sheet vs $40 for ext ply and has a much better finish. Also because it is 5 ply and not 3ply, its easier to drill and screw into from the side.

If it's formply its 17mm. My whole drawer unit is made from it too. I wouldn't think that the weight savings from going down a few mm in section would make that much difference?
Plus formply is slippery stuff - doesn't need runners.

I used 12mm ply to make my drawers with no issues.

Christian

[img]

[/img]

[img]

[/img]

We have a commercial full length drawing unit so we can get to everything in one go. I fitted it in without drilling any new holes in the Troopy. It's heavy duty no bending loaded with big Frig/freezer on back end and me sitting there. No rattles! We use poly tubs [Rubbermaid] but are looking at the ones from South Africa which are more square. Over the years travelling in Saudi the RM tubs worked very well in an 80 with simple tie down straps.
Abqaiq

Thanks heaps for all your replies. I'm Nearly finished my rear drawer set up. I am now thinking of what to cover them with. As I am a bit of a tightass, I am not sure whether to go to the big green shed and buy marine carpet. I know that is probably the best, but I thought I would ask you guys as to what another suggestion could that may be better priced?
Thanks Chriso