Absorbtion fridge

Hi All, we are new to caravaning and have a lightweight coromal which came with an absorbtion fridge which must be 25 yrs old. It functions reasonably well up to about 30 degrees external temp but past that is useless. I am aware it can be turned upside down but this has been done in the past with no improvement.
My question is, as seasoned campaigners would you recommend buying a new absorbtion fridge or change to a 240/12v system. Any comments about your experiences with either type of fridge would be appreciated. Thanks. W.
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Reply By: Member - mike g2 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 12:38

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 12:38
Hi Winston,lots of good articles can be found by using search function in exploroz, look at camper fridges, 12v/ 3 way fridges etc..as search terms ,try blogs as well. generally 'adsorption' fridges not as efficient as compression style by quite a bit. they are slow to cool, can use large amounts of pwr ( 3 way on 12v) . most modern vans and M/homes come with a 3 way-primarily for convenience of energy (12v/gas/240v) supply . its possible to run using solar and batteries as well. can add a small 12v fan to help heat exchanger.
AnswerID: 525093

Reply By: Slow one - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 12:46

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 12:46
I changed my 3 way van fridge for a 12v 80l STF90 upright engel.

Engel link

I was very happy with it even in hot weather. You can get them as a stand alone or for recessing in a van fridge space.

AnswerID: 525095

Follow Up By: Slow one - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 17:01

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 17:01
there is a respose below that 12v compressor fridges use a heap of power. The above fridge uses between .5 and 2.5 amps depending on conditions.

FollowupID: 806968

Follow Up By: Brian 01 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 19:52

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 19:52
That fridge uses 2.5 amps on 12v, so allowing for an average 60 % duty cycle, that's 36 Ah, which will climb rapidly if the weather is hot or you open the door a few times.
Add extra Ah for other electrical items and you've put paid to a 100Ah battery if you don't want to take it below 50% Soc.
A couple of warm overcast days and you're in trouble if you don't have enough battery capacity.
Then you need to be able to recharge it all.
The lower amp figure in their specs is the draw when on 240v.
This is why I said that they are power hungry, and the bigger ones are much hungrier still.
FollowupID: 806983

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 21:25

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 21:25
HI Slowone
The compressor itself is rated 33W@ 12V
THAT actually means it could draw 2.75A continiously IF used as a deep freezer
THAT equals 66Ahrs per day!!
Something that many people seems to not understand untill they camp off grid for a few days!!f

Absorption fridges where never intended to run of 12V when the battery/ies are not being charged
THAT is where the GAS option comes in.

YES, Compressor fridges are more efficient in terms of :
[1] total Energy used
[[2] Fast chilling/
[3]Tolerance to higher temps
But I would suggest that anyone considering one for long term off grid use, to look VERY carefully at their WHOLE 12V set up!!

Also with a little effort a large improvement in the abiity of absorption fridges can usually be made
NUMBER ONE being make sure, IT IS INSTALLED to the FRIDGE makers instructions
Not the van makers short cuts,!!

Correctly located fan/s ,A few baffles to direct ALL the cooling air through the condensor ,etc can make a remarkable improvement in performance
FollowupID: 806988

Follow Up By: Slow one - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:15

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:15
Here we go again. The pedantic ones win.

The Op will decide. I can't be bothered fencing with either of you.

By now. Can't be bothered posting again even though I have had both fridges for many years.

Have you.

FollowupID: 806989

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:59

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:59
Hi Slow one
NOT pendantic!
JUST FACTS, So others do not get misled!!

I have had both Engels & Absorption fridges for many many years
FIRST Engel 1968
[two Chest types & one upright'
Electrolux[ Dometics]from FIRST van way back in 50s

FollowupID: 806992

Follow Up By: Slow one - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 08:28

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 08:28
This is how it all gets turned into a circus.

Misleading facts.

Most normal people don't don't use a small 12v fridge as a freezer. It tends to stuff the veggies and explode your stubbies. Then again why would you worry about facts.

Power hungry. The manufactures states and QUOTE. " DC Power Consumption: Variable from 0.5 to 2.5 AMPS Maximum" Don't see anywhere it states 2.75 amps. Then again why would you worry about facts.

From experience my fridge would run approximately 50% of the time at NORMAL operating fridge temperature. That means veggies and beer good. Now that equates to 30 a/hrs per day not 66.

No more. The OP will make up his mind and as usual every time you post it turns into a crap fight.

I have owned 6 vans from the 1960s till today, my finding is the compressor fridge wins hands down.

FollowupID: 807001

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 09:06

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 09:06
Hi Slowone

Most people would want to KNOW ALL THE FACTS [not just opinions ]so they can determine what may be best for them
The FACT that you cannot see where the 2.75 A come from just illustrates YOUR lack of knowledge on ELECTRCS!

Yes the OP will have to make up his own mind , hopefully based on FACTS, not just opinions
It is often referred to as "sorting the wheat from chaff"
But IF the op or anyone else require further FACTS ', they just have to ask
KNOWLEDABLE people on this forum will always answer giving all the facts if possible
Perhaps you should stick to crane driving!

FollowupID: 807007

Follow Up By: The Bantam - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 09:22

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 09:22
Slow one mate... we have a poster that is giving a complete and factual reply.....rather than one that is not complete and does not have all the facts correct.

On this and other forums we have thread after thread where people are experienceing failure for their fridge and or battery system to keep up.

without exception this is due to over optomostic ideas of what the fridges and batteries do and require.

The single biggest flaw in the whole chain is people failing to read the specifications properly.

Aagin the single biggest sticking point is , published AVERAGE current drain figures on fridges.

people grasp on these AVERAGE current drain figures and consistently have their systems fail because of it.

these AVERAGE current drain figures are produced under optomistic conditions, and will be found to be consistently misleading particularly in our hot areas and in our hotter seasons.

The only figure that can be relied upon is the maximum consumption or continuous draw figure, that represents the steady state current draw of the motor pluss electronics.

As far as duty cycle is concerned..this will vary considerably depending on the individual situation.
If you have worked ..for example..on a 50% duty cycle and have a couple of days with a 75% duty cycle..you may very easily find yourself with a busted power budjet and food that is off.

As for people running fridges as freezers.
Hardly a week will go by without someone posts a situation where the simple maths are never going to add up, because they have grasped on AVERAGE consupmption and then expected that to work for a fridge run as a freezer or a fridge/ freezer

The consistent theme is that, almost without exception the reason people have disapointments with fridge and battery systems is a failure to pay attention to detail.

When it comes to battery powered refrigeration attention to detail is what will get the job done, playing fast and loose with the facts will more than likley result in disapointment.

FollowupID: 807009

Reply By: Ross M - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 13:39

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 13:39
Winston W
Were you running it on 240v or 12v or gas?
Gas is the most effective and then 240v and 12v barely does much at all just flattens batteries.
No matter what you use a large computer fan running off 12v or 240 with a 240/12vdc plug pack as power source will give it the best chance to perform if it can blow air up through the condenser area.
Don't expect too much, but if air flow and ability to get rid of the condenser heat is currently part of the problem it will help the cooling performance. Just make sure the hot air in there can get out or the system cannot work fully.

Ross M
AnswerID: 525097

Reply By: Racey - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 15:45

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 15:45
If you are in the market for new frig, then go for a compressor frig 12/240 volt. We are not sorry we opted for a compressor frig when we ordered our van. They are a little cheaper, around $200 for 150 litres, but more importantly they do operate better in the warmer climate as you have discovered. The offset is that you will most likely need to upgrade your battery system if you plan on camping away from a 240 volt power supply.

The performance of your existing frig may be improved by fitting a fan to the top vent and avoid the temptation of turning the thermostat to a colder setting on those hot days. It just increases the temperature at the back of the frig where the condenser and other heat exchangers are located where we are trying to get rid of heat without adding extra. This is where the fan will be of some assistance. The fan kits are available for around $60-70.

AnswerID: 525104

Follow Up By: Brian 01 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 16:13

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 16:13
I am a great fan of compressor fridges, but so that we don't lead the OP astray, it needs to be pointed out that they require a heap of power.
If just going from van park to van park then no problem (in fact a normal 240v domestic would then be all he needs), but if intending to bush camp away from mains power, then he will need a substantial outlay in battery and solar capacity.

Remaining with the absorbtion option could be a better choice for him.
FollowupID: 806965

Follow Up By: garrycol - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 16:31

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 16:31
Racey - can you advise what 240/12v 150l compressor fridge that you were able to get for $200?


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Follow Up By: Ross M - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 17:17

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 17:17
Probably $200 difference in the van's option price otherwise a cheap fridge. If only $200 then I will have one too.
FollowupID: 806969

Follow Up By: Racey - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 08:51

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 08:51

I was say the compressor frigs are around $200 cheaper than the 3 way frigs. E.G. 164 ltr Thetford $1990, the Dometic150 ltr is $2051, compared to a 161 ltr Waeco compressor $1649.

When we ordered the van from Evernew, there was a $200 saving on the frig..
FollowupID: 807003

Follow Up By: garrycol - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 12:16

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 12:16
Ok - thanks for the clarification.


FollowupID: 807024

Reply By: Member - Oldbaz. NSW. - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 17:35

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 17:35
The simple question is..do you want to be able to run it on gas ? If not, replace it with
a compressor type. I like the convenience & efficiency of gas for bush camping & our
van fridge works very well on 240. In fact we don't run it at all when travelling, but we
don't open it during the day either. We freeze a 3 litre milk bottle overnight & this helps keep it cold during the day. We do have a generator & consider it a better
alternative than extra batteries & solar panels. We can run a microwave,toaster,kettle,
C-tek charger, hair dryer & power tools anywhere if we have the notion.
We run another 3way in the back of the car on the opposite rotation..that is..it goes all
day while driving & is not powered at night. It can be, if wanted, either by gas or
Many dismiss absorption fridges, but if powered, & wired correctly, they can provide
adequate performance in most conditions...& our system works for us..:))).
AnswerID: 525111

Follow Up By: Member - bbuzz (NSW) - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 19:51

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 19:51
The 3 way fridge will work quite well with a small modification at the back where the condenser coils are.

This link will show a simple diagram -


There is a detailed description with part nos from Jaycar but I can't lay my hands on the link.

I have two fans and a baffle in mine and have been around Oz and through Outback Qld and NSW with no problems keeping the food cool. Gas and 240. True, 12v just keeps it at the same level, if you are lucky.

Bill B

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Reply By: Winston W - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 19:50

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 19:50
Thanks for all your input,we do have a fan but it didn't help the existing 3 way fridge. We don't want to lose the gas option and will therefore stick with buying a new 3 way. Just out of interest though, i have a 120 a/h battery in the caravan, charged by the car and also a 120a/h solar panel when parked. Would that be enough to run a 240/12v fridge----it wasn't for the 3way on 12v!
AnswerID: 525118

Follow Up By: landseka - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 10:01

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 10:01
If you do replace with another 3 way make sure it is a "T" rated fridge and you have it fitted correctly as PeterQ described which is basically what the Dometic Installation Instructions will say too and you will have no more problems.

As for folk saying 12v is crap or only just maintains cool, rubbish. If your wiring from car battery to the fridge is adequate (read heavy duty via Andersen Plug) then it too is more than efficient.

Cheers Neil
FollowupID: 807012

Reply By: Member - bbuzz (NSW) - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 20:01

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 20:01
Here is another article and diagram --


I'll find that article with the pics and part nos if it kills me.....

Bill B

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Follow Up By: Member - bbuzz (NSW) - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 20:07

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 20:07
Found it!


I use two fans at the top with an isolation switch and of course, fuses in the circuit.

I included a baffle to keep the air flow against the condenser fins too. Mines just a hard cardboard packing strip that is in the shape of a right angle - makes gluing to the wall easier.

Turn it off when driving and at night if your hearing is 40/40 but otherwise you won't know its running.
I have it wired direct to my van battery as the amount of current pull is negligible.

Hope this helps.

Bill B

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Reply By: oldtrack123 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:05

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:05
I would suggest to those who wish to try to improve the performance of their absorption fridge open the back covers & check
IF the fridge complies to the FRIDGE maker's INSTALLATION requirements in EVERY aspect
Those include
[1] No areas on the top or the sides of the FRIDGE for hot air to accumulate
Seal all such areas with
[a] Styro foam insulation or [b]blank them OFF

[2]Check the clearance between the back of the fridge components & the VAN wall
The closer the better [provided no part can rub on the van wall ] but NO MORE than 20mm!!

[3]IS there a dead space where hot are can collect above the top edge of the TOP vent
THAT is a big no, no,
If there is you should look at a means of blocking THAT off so all hot air must go out the vent/s & not accumulate

Now to further improve, one needs to understand it is importance of the refrigerent being cooled as much as possible by the time it enters the fridge evaporator.
Idealy it should be down near ambeint temp

ONE needs to look at their own set up to determine how this can be best achieved

But the principle simple involves ensuring that ALL & AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE the cooling air is being passed through the condenser fins
This can be achieved by:

[A} fitting fans directly underneath the condenser fins [old computer fans are ideal]
{B}Ensuring that all the air movement produced by the fans goes through the condenser
THAT may require some baffles such as a horizontal baffle from the outside top of the condenser fins to the van wall
[C}You are spending money to heat the boiler so you do not want to cool IT
A full length verticle baffle seperating the boiler section from the condenser & other components will solve that [you may have to make slots fot the baffle to fot around pipework Just again make sure the baffle cannot damage the piework if it movess
A 5<10mm clearence & a firmly fixed baffle should prevent THAT problem
Two things to watch in this section:
[a] that air for combustion is not restricted [MUST be a section of bottom vent allowing air to the burner
[b]THAT the HOT exhaust flue gas are directed /iped outside & do not collect with in the rear of the fridge
KITS are available
Just look at your set up to determine how YOU can best achieve the desired results

AnswerID: 525124

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:24

Saturday, Jan 25, 2014 at 22:24
I should add, That full length vents are not better
All they do is break ANY natural DRAFT effect
Best to have a good sized vent at the very bottom
And another whose very top should be above the fridge top{see Dometic install instructions ]
In lower temps the fans are not needed, so I reccommend a thermostat be attached to the TOP of the condenser fins about midway from the end
A Jaycar thermostat part # ST3831 50C is a good size!!
The fans will then run Automatically WHEN required!!
FollowupID: 806991

Follow Up By: landseka - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 10:27

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 10:27
Hi Peter, a question if I may.

On my new van which is currently at the local Dometic Agent attempting to rectify poor performance. We already have addressed poor installation. This is in a 6 week old van.

On this installation the bottom of the top vent (large new style) is below the top of the fridge by nearly half! This is due to having a microwave above the fridge.

Q. Would I be advised to block the lower half of this vent to prevent cooling air trying to escape before fully doing it's job? In other words, making the top vent 1/2 the height but that 1/2 is above the fridge?
Thanks Neil
FollowupID: 807015

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 22:22

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 22:22
HI Neil
From your description,the bottom of the top vent is actually below the Condensor????/
If so that is certainly is not adding to condensor cooling
IN factit not much better than the old mehtodof having FULL length grills!! [Virtually no induced draft]

So first some additional details from you
[1] IS there any space for hot air to accumulate above the TOP Grills of the top vent ??
[2]Wjhat is the location of the BOTTOM grill with regard to the fridge?

[3]When you say poor installation has been adressed, can you be more specific?

FollowupID: 807045

Follow Up By: landseka - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 22:41

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 22:41
Peter, rather than hijack this thread are you able to give me an email addy & I'll send some pics.

Cheers Neil
FollowupID: 807047

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 23:31

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 23:31
HI Neil
I am not a payed up member of the forum[hopefully just a welcome guest] SO your email address is not available to me to post mine to,
And I certainly do not wish to give it on an open forum.

Perhaps just Start a NEW topic

Of course you would then have to "sort the wheat from the chaff"
SOME others may find it of interest

FollowupID: 807050

Follow Up By: Slow one - Monday, Jan 27, 2014 at 06:47

Monday, Jan 27, 2014 at 06:47

here is your answer without sarcasm.

This site will help you. I installed one on my last 3 way fridge before I changed it out for a compressor fridge.

Fan link
FollowupID: 807058

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Jan 27, 2014 at 09:37

Monday, Jan 27, 2014 at 09:37
HI Landseka
If you look at that link, supplied above,
you will see it FAILS to meet most of the key requirements

It is JUST someones attempt to overcome their problem!!!
There are MANY better, MORE EFFECTIVE SET UPS !!!

BUT very few cover ALL the points

I will see if I can find some links
FollowupID: 807063

Follow Up By: landseka - Monday, Jan 27, 2014 at 21:11

Monday, Jan 27, 2014 at 21:11
New thread started Peter, Thread ID: 105974

FollowupID: 807127

Reply By: Motherhen - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 00:04

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 00:04
Hi Winston

We were in a similar situation with a older camper we purchased ten years ago. We did get it checked by a refrigeration technician who tried a new heating element, but when that made no difference he advised us to discard the old fridge. We purchased an upright caravan compressor fridge, a battery, controller and a solar panel which we put on a stand to use as a portable when we stopped. Wonderful. We left the old generator home, and had a solar charged battery for fridge and lights; our only electrical needs at the time.


Red desert dreaming

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AnswerID: 525133

Follow Up By: Member - Keith P (NSW) - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 00:45

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 00:45
We had issues in our Cub Camper a few years ago with the 3 way fridge...so decided to replace it with a 60 litre Engel upright on 12/240 only
This fridge drew about 3-3.5 amps on 12 volt when it was running...and coupled to a properly regulated 100 watt solar panel set-up...worked perfectly and did its job properly with no worries or hassles...even on cloudy and wet days... the solar still managed to get some charge into the 80 amp hour battery even then. I reckon that a proper good quality compressor fridge and a solar system with about 50% more capacity then needed will leave a 3 way for dead ...even with gas!!
I kept the Engel and solar setup when we traded the Cub...thinking that I would use it in another later on ...but this never happened...so use it as a shed fridge sometimes just to keep it going....but now our new caravan has more than enough solar capacity..I am going to put it all on the market.
But from my own experience...a compressor fridge and good solar works really well.
Cheers Keith

Nothin is ever the same once I own it ...........

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Reply By: The Bantam - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 09:50

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 09:50
Winston mate as you will have gathered, there is quite a bit of discussion about fridges.

there is also quite a bit of information and misinformation about fridges in general.

Condensed facts as I see them.

1, it is more common than not that fridges..all fridges...including the one at home..are not installed as best they could be...it is very common for people who should know better to completely ignore manufaturers requirements for clearance and ventilation when installing fridges.
You would be wise to check the manufacturers information and check your own installation.

2 Absorbtion fridges require maintenence and cleaning and can be fussy about thinks like being level.
you would be wise to check the manufacturers information and check the condition of ya fridge and how you use it.

there has been some input on the above two matters and some improvements that can be made above.

3 when it comes to absorbtion fridges V compressor fridges..it must be understood that absorbtion fridges are fundamentally inefficient..the only reason they are viable at all is they can be run off a very dense power source....that being gas...whe it comes to needing a lot of energy..ya simply cant beat burning something..in this case that is gas.

In spite of their woefull inefficiency, absorbtion fridges, remain viable for a great many because of being able to run off a single gas bottle for quite long periods.

On the matter of battery powered compressor fridges.

The idea that they are power hungry, is completly flase.....they are indeed very efficient, and in the 12 volt world they are pretty damn low demand items.
The problem is that the batteries we run them off are nowhere near as energy dense as a gass botttle.

AND people consistently underestimate the size of battery ( and solar pannel) required to do any damn thing.

A 3 amp current drain is certainly not a high demand item in any terms.

The failure and sticking point is the failure to install sufficient battery capacity ( and solar capaity)...and often to the tune to 1/2 or 1/4 of what should reasonably be required for reliable performance.

The notion that you can run any fridge reliably from a 100AH battery for any more than 24 hours AND return good service life from that battery is completly false.......but there are a great many people persist with this fantasy.

(YES I do run a 40ish litre fridge off a 100ish AH battery...but I am of no illusion about its performance and its adequacy)

BY far the best performance can be had from a compressor fridge run off an adequate battery system for the purpose.

When it comes to fridges...pedantic is what gets the job done.......slap happy is what results in disapointment......there is an awfull lot of disapointment around concerning portable refrifgeration.

AnswerID: 525143

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 23:21

Sunday, Jan 26, 2014 at 23:21
HI Bantam
A couple of good posts there
THere is NO arguement Compressor fridges are ;
[1] MORE effecicient in ENERGY USE, probably in the order of8< 10times
Probably upwards of 3.5kWhrs per 24hrs[around $1+]
That is why I would suggest that No one should run 3ways at home off 240V
[2]They COOL faster
[[3]They recover quicker
[4]They are more temp tolerant but still do have a limit & may need to run for quite long periods in HIGH temp confines
That need to be considered if running them in a hot enclosed space !
[5] you require adequate electrical enegy to run them under ALL conditions
That does require carefull consideration of ;

For OFF mains camping:
[a]BATTERY bank size for the extended period when little or no recharging can be done[ wet weather ,little or no solar input]
what alternative plans are required for those situations.s

[b]What other demands are going to be made on the batteries under similar conditions

[c]IF the Batterries do run low WHAT are the options

Some brands are very reliable, But they do have electronics that can fail without warning at ANYTIME
What are the OPTIONS then??

[1]They have THREE energy sources to choose from if one fails & the others are available
The Simpler ones have very little that can affect the GAS operation

Very high reliabilty on gas
A bottle of gas under normal conditions lasts about 4<5weeks.

Should not be used on 12V unless the batterries are being charged BY alternator when driving OR by a minimum 20A charger if stationary
So the size of solar or battery bank size is errelavant
So take your pick 10Ahr<1000Ahr
THE makers make THAT very clear!!

Need to be level
NOT energy efficient Expensive to run electrically from METERED power[MAINS]
Slow reaction time
Cannot tolerate as high an AMBIENT temp as Compressor types

IMHO that just about covers the pros & cons
IT is for each to make his own decision as to what will BEST suit HIS intended mode of RVing BASED on FACTSs NOT JUST opinions

Given sufficient INformation there are several on this forum &OTHERS who can /would advice those who wish it more detailed options
Solar panels, Battery bank charging means etc, BASED on Electrical knowledge & understanding ofHOW IT ALL FITS TOGETHER!!

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