Lightforce 240 XGT driving lights on an ARB bullbar

that model are very good, I have the early ones that twist off to change the bulb and mount from the rear, they are awful and shake on the slightest bumps, hit some corrugations and you go cross-eyed driving, if they fit, I would not have a clue but they are excellent lights

Give LEDdriving lights a good hard long look .

LED LIGHTS

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Here is a better website.

Great Whites




Monster Quad row LED Bar by HID-Lightsdownunder

Kev
What ever you get, make sure they stay behind the front of the bar (so when you whack a skippy the lights don't break) and some smart Alick policeman doesn't decide to book you for having a "dangerous protruding object" on your vehicle.
Some lights are too tall to fit between the top gap in the bar.

I'm not experienced with LED bars, but HIDs are much better (and more expensive) than Halogens. I put a HID kit inside my Cibie Super Oscars.
Not everyone likes them, as they do reflect back from road signs, but if it's that big a problem then you probably driving in country where you don't need driving lights.

Kev, I know it's a bit off topic, but if the original bar can support the lights why would you add many kg's of weight and subtract untold $ on a steel bar?
Bob

I can understand why most people go for the brightest light they can find. But I live 30 Klms out of town and the last 5 are through unfenced (mallee) reserve and I rely on 100 watt halogen and slow down to 80 Klms. Some times of year I can see 25 roos on the road verge, other times 1 or 2 plus a few darters who come out of no where.
Why halogen, because although we don't have much traffic I think one of the earlier posts hit the nail on the head. If I have to dip my lights 6 Klms ahead of on coming traffic I am driving blind for at least 3 klms until the oncoming vehicle pasts. That is just too dangerous for me. Most roads will have on coming traffic every 30 minutes or so at least, unless you are a couple hundred klms north of Broken Hill. And the road side sign reflections are bad. I have three sections where road signs are in place, one is a grid with X hatch signs on both sides and I am blind until I am at least 50 metres past it, and guess where the roos roam?. I can only imagine how bad it would be with HID. Last thing, the LED's seem to be brightest at 50 to 100 metres, but drop off a bit after that. The HID are amazing lights, but the intensity on a long trip would tire the eyes.

Seems like I am a bit of a downer on bight lights. But hey, I drive on roo infested roads several times a week, and I do not believe the brightest is necessarily the best. Some times just good middling lights and slow down to match the conditions is the best and safest answer. You get to keep them on for longer, and that is after all why we fit driving lights.

I have a set of Lightforce XGTs mounted on the front of my 200 series. The LFs have been converted to HID and dual focal rings with an aftermarket kit, which gives me two spread beams.
I had to turn the base bracket around to give clearance between light housing and top tube of ARB steel bull bar.
I also have a 30 inch single row light bar which is only good for slow offroad work where there is a lot out bush around you.
Maybe one of the dual row lightbars would be better or a single row lightbar with the larger diameter reflectors?
You may have to measure the distance between top tube and main section to see if it will fit?
Regards