Engine conversion

Think they would only have 3lt grenades to sell.................

They sometimes do the older vehicles as well replace the engines with rebuild 6.2 and 6.5

Thanks worth a try I most probably will go for a turbo from turbotech or my mech have to see what he can do for me 1st

If your motor is in good condition you don't need to touch any of the internals the 4.2 ltr diesel is more than strong enough to handle a turbo. "Bantam" 15w/40 is outside the specs so it's the wrong oil

A lot of the recent vehicles are specing a 5w30, 10w30 or similar, there are arguments about this.

The argument is that it is speced A/ for low temperature environments such as japan, northern amrerica and europe, B/ as a fuel economy and emmissions measure, lower viscosity lower resistance at idle when cold.

There are a lot of things beeing done to reduce emmissions when engines are cold, because in cold climates thay may stay cold for quite some time......this is not like our climate where most of our engines reach operating temp by the time we reach the end of the street.

It is argued that they are quite happy to trade off long term engine wear to achieve short term environmental complinace.

Lots of people are running 15w40 or such in these engines with no issue.

It is also argued that the 4.2 litre engine in the nissan that may be speced with a 10w30 or whatever is not much different to the previous model speced with 15w40.


I have not got a copy of the hand book, BUT, you will find that there are always alternate oils specified.

There may be a primary viscosity spec, but almost without exception there is a temp V viscosity table showing alternatives.


If ya fussy about 15w40 beeing too, thick, Caltex do a dello 10w30 in 3 different specs, Shell do rimular in 10w30 in at least one variant and Mobil do devlac in a 10w40 and a 5w40.

Check that the collars and cuffs match with the oil spec in your handbook .

The point is a great many people try to run fancy high priced retail oils in diesels...although that have a diesel spec...none of these compete for price or quality with the top spec diesel oils from the three top oil companies.

You will note that I have not mentioned Castrol.....In my view,( and the view of many others) BP ( who own both Castrol and the budjet brand Valvoline) simpley are not keeping up with the other 3 major oil companies in the diesel spec oil market.

The important thing is to run a top spec diesel oil, ( that you can buy for less than an inferiour retail oil) and change it regularly.

cheers

All I was saying is that 15/40 is outside the specs of what nissan recommend for the 4.2 diesel produced in the early 90's so if you recommend it to someone and they have engine trouble where do you go from there I'm sure you wouldn't have a leg to stand on if it was a freshly reconditioned motor could be a very expensive mistake. Just one thing about the 2 stroke in diesel is there any documentation available for me to read so I have a guarantee it will not harm my motor or is it just joe blo saying it works for my vehicle so you should take a risk and use it as well as the incorrect engine oil.

If you google "two stroke in diesel" you will have more than you can read in a month.

The best places to start are the threads on 4wdaction and ausfish.

From there there are some very heavy and comprehensive threads on the american diesel forums and the uk landrover forum.

There are some threads that have been live for over a decade on the subject.

There have been several independent tests done that have been discussed at length and many thousands of people running 2 stroke in diesel with good results....AND....I have not seen one single post where there has been a problem.

As for the engine oil.....there are various reasons for the manufacturer recommendations......the recomendations and the reason are not always as straight forward or cut and dried as some would try to tell us.

We need to look at the full story about the recomendations such as temperature range V viscosity, any known problems and the reasons why.

There is a known problem with people running fancy retail oils in diesels and experiencing sludge build up and other issues . Those retail oils may have a diesel rating, but they are not good diesel spec oils, they have neither the cleaning capacity nor the soot suspending capacity of a good diesel oil.

There are also known issues with people running 20w50 oils ( thinking thicker is better) ( particularly in toyota pre common rail sixes), when 15w40 has been the industry standard diesel spec oil for many decades and is what is spec'ed and is well within the temp V viscosity range required and recommended in the hand book.

You have made a comment that 15w40 is the "wrong oil", Then made a generalised statement with no specifics.

I refeer you to my statement
"most pre common rail diesels go very well on the 15w40 diesel spec oils in any of the top 3 brands."

I stand by that statement, If you have read the owners manual for the model the OP has or have the detailed oil spec for the model the OP has.

Please do post that information.


As for waranty on the rebuilt engine....IF the op is getting an emgine rebuilt I am sure the rebuilder will have recomendations and IF that reconditioner has warranty conditions I amd sure they will be expressed.....nobody in their right mind will have an engne reconditioned by the dealer AND pay for it...it would probely be cheaper to buy a new car.


cheers