Engine conversion

Submitted: Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 00:55
ThreadID: 106198 Views:1717 Replies:7 FollowUps:7
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I have a 1992 GQ Nissan patrol and the current diesel has done 350 000 kms it is the original and getting sluggish. I was hoping that someone could point me in the right direction to get a tdi turbo diesel conversion done in Western Australia. mostly all I see are for V8 conversions help please.
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Reply By: Batt's - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 02:37

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 02:37
What motor do you have 350,000 is not a lot if it's the 4.2 ltr diesel mine has 415,000 on a 93 model and has plenty of power the owner before me put a turbo on it at 300,000. If serviced regularly it should be good for 800,000 plus km. If it is the 4.2 ltr have you ever looked at the injectors do you change the air filter regularly have you ever had it checked over by a good diesel mechanic. Only asking because it's expensive to do an engine conversion if your motor just needs a good service and if it's still in good condition as a cheaper alternative I would recommend getting a turbo and a 3" exhaust it will make a big difference set at around 12psi it will not harm the motor because they can handle a lot more boost than that if you require it. Have you ever had a look at the "Nissan patrol forum site" you will get all the help you need from the guys there whichever way you decide to go.
AnswerID: 526252

Reply By: Member - Tony (ACT) - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 05:20

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 05:20
I have had to put a new motor in my GU at about the same k's as yours. I got a new 4.2 TD from Nissan, a factory turbo motor.
AnswerID: 526253

Reply By: Whirlwinder - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 07:38

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 07:38
If you haven't done so already I suggest a CEM (Cost Effective Maintenance)flushing oil treatment first to remove most of the crud that will be inside then get a good diesel service done. I use it at each oil change on my 1HZ and you would be amazed how clean the oil can stay afterwards.
A new motor will be a lot to spend on an old car.
AnswerID: 526256

Reply By: Penchy - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 08:40

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 08:40
ask the guys on the Patrol4X4 forum. You will get better advice than through here.
AnswerID: 526257

Reply By: Member - Shane H2 - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 11:41

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 11:41
Thanks given me a bit too think about and more to investigate??
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Reply By: Member - KBAD - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 17:26

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 17:26
Rebuild if you haven't damaged the block, if looking to turbo a non turbo model go the whole way and fit turbo ready pistons and the works heavy duty bearings if needed, plenty of garages around who would do that have a general search go talk to them and suss them out. Don't forget to factor in getting the Injector pump rebuilt and new injectors would then look at the driveline.. I know you have said about the v8 conversions but i am pretty sure that Brunswick diesel do more than that would be worth a call. They may even have a few nissan motors that they would sell.
AnswerID: 526293

Follow Up By: Member - John - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 18:10

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 18:10
Think they would only have 3lt grenades to sell.................
John and Jan

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Follow Up By: Member - KBAD - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 19:49

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 19:49
They sometimes do the older vehicles as well replace the engines with rebuild 6.2 and 6.5
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Reply By: The Bantam - Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 22:50

Wednesday, Feb 12, 2014 at 22:50
many diesels get slugish just from beeing driven arround the city at low rpm and low load.

The rings carbon up, there is build up in and arround the injectors and in the head and the muffler fills with soot.

The best thing you can do is give it an oil change with a known good diesel spec oil..Caltex dello, mobil devlac or shell rimular.

Throw some 2 stroke oil in the fuel tank at 200:1.

Then give it a good hard run up some big hills with a load on. at least 4 to 6 hours at highway speed.

you would be surprised how well they come back.

I'd been driving my little diesel arround town for a few months....I recently did a trip into the Tweed hinterland towing a car traliler from Brisbane.

It now runs a hell of a lot better.

I have had this experience before.

I'm not keen on the chemical flushes, any of the top spec diesel oils should have plenty of detergent, and are a much milder option.

A couple of short oil and filter changes can shift a lot of carp.

Many people run the wrong oil in their diesels and quite a few object to this.....most pre common rail diesels go very well on the 15w40 diesel spec oils in any of the top 3 brands.
Many of the high priced retail oils just are not up to it....stick with the top 3..and you must do frequent oil changes, most of these little diesels are dirty in that a lot of soot passes the rigs.....the oil changes need to be sufficient to cope with this.

The two stroke is a well proven additive and it seems to help with shifting the carbon out of the injectors and the head...as well as improving the lubricity of the fuel...some diesels report very good improvements running two stroke in the fuel..particularly older engines..

It is definitely worth a try before you shell out a couple of grand for eiteher a rebuild or a replacement.

Some people report just flushing the muffler with the garden hose making a big difference.

never done it.

a good hard long high RPM run will get the exhaust properly hot and clean it out.

cheers
AnswerID: 526320

Follow Up By: Member - Shane H2 - Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 at 00:23

Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 at 00:23
Thanks worth a try I most probably will go for a turbo from turbotech or my mech have to see what he can do for me 1st
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 at 19:24

Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 at 19:24
If your motor is in good condition you don't need to touch any of the internals the 4.2 ltr diesel is more than strong enough to handle a turbo. "Bantam" 15w/40 is outside the specs so it's the wrong oil
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Follow Up By: The Bantam - Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 at 23:28

Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 at 23:28
A lot of the recent vehicles are specing a 5w30, 10w30 or similar, there are arguments about this.

The argument is that it is speced A/ for low temperature environments such as japan, northern amrerica and europe, B/ as a fuel economy and emmissions measure, lower viscosity lower resistance at idle when cold.

There are a lot of things beeing done to reduce emmissions when engines are cold, because in cold climates thay may stay cold for quite some time......this is not like our climate where most of our engines reach operating temp by the time we reach the end of the street.

It is argued that they are quite happy to trade off long term engine wear to achieve short term environmental complinace.

Lots of people are running 15w40 or such in these engines with no issue.

It is also argued that the 4.2 litre engine in the nissan that may be speced with a 10w30 or whatever is not much different to the previous model speced with 15w40.


I have not got a copy of the hand book, BUT, you will find that there are always alternate oils specified.

There may be a primary viscosity spec, but almost without exception there is a temp V viscosity table showing alternatives.


If ya fussy about 15w40 beeing too, thick, Caltex do a dello 10w30 in 3 different specs, Shell do rimular in 10w30 in at least one variant and Mobil do devlac in a 10w40 and a 5w40.

Check that the collars and cuffs match with the oil spec in your handbook .

The point is a great many people try to run fancy high priced retail oils in diesels...although that have a diesel spec...none of these compete for price or quality with the top spec diesel oils from the three top oil companies.

You will note that I have not mentioned Castrol.....In my view,( and the view of many others) BP ( who own both Castrol and the budjet brand Valvoline) simpley are not keeping up with the other 3 major oil companies in the diesel spec oil market.

The important thing is to run a top spec diesel oil, ( that you can buy for less than an inferiour retail oil) and change it regularly.

cheers
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Saturday, Feb 15, 2014 at 21:31

Saturday, Feb 15, 2014 at 21:31
All I was saying is that 15/40 is outside the specs of what nissan recommend for the 4.2 diesel produced in the early 90's so if you recommend it to someone and they have engine trouble where do you go from there I'm sure you wouldn't have a leg to stand on if it was a freshly reconditioned motor could be a very expensive mistake. Just one thing about the 2 stroke in diesel is there any documentation available for me to read so I have a guarantee it will not harm my motor or is it just joe blo saying it works for my vehicle so you should take a risk and use it as well as the incorrect engine oil.
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Follow Up By: The Bantam - Sunday, Feb 16, 2014 at 09:38

Sunday, Feb 16, 2014 at 09:38
If you google "two stroke in diesel" you will have more than you can read in a month.

The best places to start are the threads on 4wdaction and ausfish.

From there there are some very heavy and comprehensive threads on the american diesel forums and the uk landrover forum.

There are some threads that have been live for over a decade on the subject.

There have been several independent tests done that have been discussed at length and many thousands of people running 2 stroke in diesel with good results....AND....I have not seen one single post where there has been a problem.

As for the engine oil.....there are various reasons for the manufacturer recommendations......the recomendations and the reason are not always as straight forward or cut and dried as some would try to tell us.

We need to look at the full story about the recomendations such as temperature range V viscosity, any known problems and the reasons why.

There is a known problem with people running fancy retail oils in diesels and experiencing sludge build up and other issues . Those retail oils may have a diesel rating, but they are not good diesel spec oils, they have neither the cleaning capacity nor the soot suspending capacity of a good diesel oil.

There are also known issues with people running 20w50 oils ( thinking thicker is better) ( particularly in toyota pre common rail sixes), when 15w40 has been the industry standard diesel spec oil for many decades and is what is spec'ed and is well within the temp V viscosity range required and recommended in the hand book.

You have made a comment that 15w40 is the "wrong oil", Then made a generalised statement with no specifics.

I refeer you to my statement
"most pre common rail diesels go very well on the 15w40 diesel spec oils in any of the top 3 brands."

I stand by that statement, If you have read the owners manual for the model the OP has or have the detailed oil spec for the model the OP has.

Please do post that information.


As for waranty on the rebuilt engine....IF the op is getting an emgine rebuilt I am sure the rebuilder will have recomendations and IF that reconditioner has warranty conditions I amd sure they will be expressed.....nobody in their right mind will have an engne reconditioned by the dealer AND pay for it...it would probely be cheaper to buy a new car.


cheers
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