Saturday, Mar 01, 2014 at 12:22
Well, SURprise Surprise SURprise.
I recon a hell of a lot of people would find themselves
well over weight if they ran over the scales loaded to travel.
More than a few have found themselves nearly maxed out with nothing but 4 people aboard, after they have fitted some accessories.
Its very easy to start welding and adding seemingly small bits of fairly light steel.
I have seen plenty of trailers that are close to beeing over weight empty....and thus pretty pointless.
A few years ago I used to build equipment cases.....quite often I had to work to weight limitations.
Before I even told the client it could be done I would account for the weight of every square inch of plywood, every inch of extrusion and every catch, latch corner and handle.
It taught me a lesson.
The thing you thinks will cost you weight often dont and there are things that will catch you unaware...because they seem so light when you are handling.
If you want to keep you winch and reduce its weight...go for syntheitic winch rope.......that can nearly halve the weight of your winch.
The BIG advantage of hiluxes is that they are light.......as soon as you have lost that, they realy suffer in so many ways.
Remember the first law of storage.
Orderly storage ALWAYS adds weight and volume.
Some of the draw systems people have in their vehicles are redicilous and as you have found can weigh heaps.
If you are building in ply...look for the light weight grades used in boating & avaitaion...buy
well and they are not that expensive.
Some of the reasonably priced grades can be half the weight of others...slash pine can be very heavy.....Powlonia is so light you will not believe it.....if you can source it, a composite of polowina and gibboon, is very light and very strong.
Think in terms of 6mm and 10mm ply instead of 12 and 15 or even 20...but your constructn method will need to be clever and from the boating book rather then the builder boy methods.
Use methods from wooden boating and you can make rediculoulsy light and strong boxes......plywod, epoxy and glass fibre....kills both steel and aluminium in weight for strength.
An alloy tray is an easy weight saving...you can build a light and strong steel tray...but you need to be thinking a different way and you need to calculate weight before you even buy the steel.
Start you mission by buyimg a good set of bathroom scales..and weigh every damn thing.
I'm running an 03 conventional diesel hilux.
I have an aluminium tray and an australian work and leasure canopy...I can be under2 tonnes ready to roll two of us aboard.
I run a box system in conjunction with a tie down system.
I considered aircraft tracking but the price was unreasonable.
So I baught some 50 x50 x10mm angle and got drilling.
I have 3 tie down rails the full length of the tray with tie points about 100mm appart.
everything gets ratcheted down on a rubber over plywwod deck.
My boxes I made from light plywwod, epoxy and fiberglass using methods I learned from the case business and wooden boating methods.
I tyried plastic crates...they simply are not rigid enough to be tied down effectivly and stay in one piece.
AND if you build your boxes you can make then whatever size is advantageous....my pasenger side run of boxes are the same dimensions as my fridges.
The big advantage is that I can have the whole rig out and stacked up in the shed in an hour...it takes me about 2 hours to put it all back in and tie it down to trasport spec.
I hope this give you some ideas.
cheers
AnswerID:
527468
Follow Up By: Member - Robert R1 (SA) - Saturday, Mar 01, 2014 at 14:47
Saturday, Mar 01, 2014 at 14:47
The Bantam,
Thanks for your great reply. I am pretty much starting again (except for the 200 kg steel canopy) and you have given me a lot to think about. I don't start heading north until July so I have plenty of time to get it right.
Regards,
Bob
FollowupID:
809869
Follow Up By: Dennis Ellery - Saturday, Mar 01, 2014 at 22:56
Saturday, Mar 01, 2014 at 22:56
Wooden boxes, wooden boats – living in the past I think.
Aluminium and heavy duty plastic
bins and boxes are the way to go for durability – been using them for years – indestructible if you set them up right.
FollowupID:
809905
Follow Up By: The Bantam - Sunday, Mar 02, 2014 at 00:15
Sunday, Mar 02, 2014 at 00:15
Weight for strenght and durability, wood, epoxy, fiberglass composites will handily spank just about every other material on the planet.
Living in the past...not a bit of it.
Modern marine epoxies are just fabulous and versatile.
The fastest sail boat in the world....Slingshot ....is a wood, epoxy and fibreglass composite...as are many current competitive world class sail boats
The problem with plastic boxes is they flex which makes them hard to restrain to code.
The cheaper boxes are just rubbish, don't stand up to UV and are just not good shapes.
The stronger boxes...are poisonously expensive....and not particularly light....and that is if you know ehere to buy them.
tell me...anybody know where to buy a plastic box that is the same size and shape as my fridge.
cheers
FollowupID:
809906
Follow Up By: Member - PJR (NSW) - Sunday, Mar 02, 2014 at 07:16
Sunday, Mar 02, 2014 at 07:16
I'm not overweight but the car shies away from wieghbridges every time we pass one. I am sure it was over the limit when they made it.
Phil
FollowupID:
809908
Follow Up By: Dennis Ellery - Sunday, Mar 02, 2014 at 12:23
Sunday, Mar 02, 2014 at 12:23
With plastic tubs - it all depends on how you set them up.
I use the stackable commercial type – available from materials handling stockists or food handling crate suppliers.
For the top crates in a stack - I have made a simple lid of 6mm ply with a couple of 20x40 pine struts glued to the underside. These struts drop inside the crate and reinforce the long edges.
If you wanted something tougher – you could use 2mm aluminium checker plate with a 20 mm angle pop riveted to the underside.
When this arrangement is roped down it’s as solid as a
rock.
FollowupID:
809919