leaf spring fittment

Submitted: Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 17:42
ThreadID: 106523 Views:3168 Replies:2 FollowUps:2
This Thread has been Archived
Hi all,

This may be a silly question but please bear with me.

I recently fit a set of leaf springs to my 94' 75 series troopy. At first I fit them up the way that the old ones came off, at least I'm pretty sure that was the case. Upon driving the car the steering seemed very vague and faint (probably normal for a troopy, but more so than usual). I had a wheel alignment done and the aligner mentioned that the caster was out, which was causing the vague feeling. He said that because I lifted it 50mm from standard this is inevitable.

After our first trip off road I heard some creaking from the front suspension during articulation. Once I got home I had a check underneath, the front springs were fouling on the inside of the fixed mount. I realised I had installed the military wrap (extra hoop around the end of the leaf spring) facing towards the back of the car.

I figured this was wrong then called a bloke at tough dog to confirm. He mentioned that the military wrap should go towards the front, mounted on the shackle. He also explained that the shorter half of the spring should be at the front, which happens to be the side with the military wrap on it.

This made sense to me and explained why the caster was out so much. I then removed the springs spun them around and refitted them. The car drove a lot better, steering much more responsive and much more clearance between the rear spring mount and eye.

Only thing is, my sway bar link is now on a 30 degree angle??? I'm afraid this will flog the bushes out in no time.

Anyone have any ideas???

(again forgive my ignorance, first time playing around with leaf springs.)


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Reply By: Ross M - Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 20:19

Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 20:19
The military wrap is designed specifically to go around the fixed pin in the hanger and not ever on a shackle unit.
The wrap is to catch the spring pack IF the main leaf breaks and then the wrap holds the axle, sort of in position, so the axle doesn't suddenly go way out of alignment and cause you to lose instant control of the vehicle. Applies front and rear.

Short end closest to the driver at front and back. Wrap on fixed pin which is also closest to the driver.

Also, so the front spring action causes the smallest effect on the steering axle ie, at the front axle, the shortest section of the spring is to the the rear of the centre bolt on the front leaves AND therefore forward of the centre bolt on the rear leaves.

ALARM
Whoever told you to put the long section to the fixed pin is an absolute lunatic and shouldn't work on vehicles. Just too dangerous. His explanation to you is totally flawed.
He does not understand suspension and steering at all.
The longest section is designed to work in conjunction with the shackle.
I am often harsh on some mechanics and rightly so.

Tuff Puppy People are sellers of stuff and may not know anything about springs although they sell them, they might, just never rely on it. What are his credentials apart from "Salesman"/ Dude with no E.

To have the springs fitted in that way the front axle has to move forward a considerable amount. That withdraws the sliding joint way out as well, If you use the new springs downward ability the sliding/slip joint may come apart or close to anyway.

The caster WILL reduce purely because of the lifting action because the springs are not made to compensate for the what happens. It isn't inevitable, it is just no spring maker builds in caster correction.

SO, you have to insert at least 3 degree correction wedges into the front spring pads, with the thick bit to the front, to rotate the axle backwards and provide some amount of caster. Unfortunately that increases the drive angle of the front drive shaft uni's.a little more than the lift has also caused.

The rear springs must have the wrap to the front of the rear axle, long bit behind.

I'm not surprised the sway bad rods are at an angle, the whole axle must be nowhere near OE position.

Because you have lifted springs, you will also have to lower the, brake hose to axle, top fixing points, by adding a different bracket or fit longer hoses. Please to what is suitable to ensure the hoses aren't ripped off over a sudden rise and leave you with not brakes.

They are fairly centrally located front and back so a support under the chassis with wheels off the ground will quickly reveal how close to hose failure you really are.

Violin strings spring to mind.

While you have the front or which ever springs were rubbing, just use an angle grinder to carefully remove excess spring (wrap only) width where they are likely touch inside the fixed hanger.

Properly fitted, we hope not to be reading about you soon. What I outlined I did on my 6o series years ago.

Best Regards
Ross M
AnswerID: 527595

Reply By: Ross M - Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 20:27

Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 20:27
The military wrap is designed specifically to go around the fixed pin in the hanger and not ever on a shackle unit.
The wrap is to catch the spring pack IF the main leaf breaks and then the wrap holds the axle, sort of in position, so the axle doesn't suddenly go way out of alignment and cause you to lose instant control of the vehicle. Applies front and rear.

Short end closest to the driver at front and back. Wrap on fixed pin which is also closest to the driver.

Also, so the front spring action causes the smallest effect on the steering axle ie, at the front axle, the shortest section of the spring is to the the rear of the centre bolt on the front leaves AND therefore forward of the centre bolt on the rear leaves.

ALARM
Whoever told you to put the long section to the fixed pin is an absolute lunatic and shouldn't work on vehicles. His explanation to you is totally flawed.
He does not understand suspension and steering at all. Facts are exactly the reverse of what he told you. Indeed, a very dangerous man to listen to.
I would love to hear his technical explanations on other things, probably make your hair curl.
The longest section is designed to work in conjunction with the shackle.
I am often harsh on some mechanics and rightly so.

Tuff Puppy People are sellers of stuff and may not know anything about springs although they sell them, they might, just never rely on it. What are his credentials apart from "Salesman"/ Dude with no E.

To have the springs fitted in that way the front axle has to move forward a considerable amount. That withdraws the sliding joint way out as well, If you use the new springs downward ability the sliding/slip joint may come apart or close to anyway.

The caster WILL reduce purely because of the lifting action because the springs are not made to compensate for the what happens. It isn't inevitable, it is just no spring maker builds in caster correction.

SO, you have to insert at least 3 degree correction wedges into the front spring pads, with the thick bit to the front, to rotate the axle backwards and provide some amount of caster. Unfortunately that increases the drive angle of the front drive shaft uni's.a little more than the lift has also caused.

The rear springs must have the wrap to the front of the rear axle, long bit behind.

I'm not surprised the sway bad rods are at an angle, the whole axle must be nowhere near OE position.

Because you have lifted springs, you will also have to lower the, brake hose to axle, top fixing points, by adding a different bracket or fit longer hoses. Please to what is suitable to ensure the hoses aren't ripped off over a sudden rise and leave you with not brakes.

They are fairly centrally located front and back so a support under the chassis with wheels off the ground will quickly reveal how close to hose failure you really are.

Violin strings spring to mind.

While you have the front or which ever springs were rubbing, just use an angle grinder to carefully remove excess spring (wrap only) width where they are likely touch inside the fixed hanger.

Properly fitted, we hope not to be reading about you soon.
Headlines: Troopy Totalled By Tough Dog.

What I outlined I did on my 60 series years ago, same gear.

Best Regards
Ross M
AnswerID: 527597

Follow Up By: Ross M - Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 20:29

Monday, Mar 03, 2014 at 20:29
Sorry about the double, the little spring in the keyboard is back to front.

Please remove prior Mods, Thank you.
0
FollowupID: 810023

Follow Up By: rb30e - Wednesday, Mar 12, 2014 at 19:22

Wednesday, Mar 12, 2014 at 19:22
Hey Ross,

Just wanted to thank you for your sound advice.
I finally got around to refitting them, followed your recommendations and got the 3 degree wedges to equalise the caster. Also ground the military wrap down on the edges to prevent them from fouling with the chassis of the car.

It drives much better than it previously did when they were the right way around. A lot more responsive and less of the tendency to wonder on the road.

Thanks again.
0
FollowupID: 810649

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