Hilux Alternator, help please
Submitted: Friday, May 23, 2014 at 07:54
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Member - lyndon NT
Hi All
Have a mate staying with us who had a warning light come up on his dash yesterday, Hilux 2006 T/D. He checked the book and it said something to do with the electrics. Anyway, checked battery voltage, 12.1V. Battery is new this week and he had just driven
home from work. Tonged the alternator and only registering 4 amps. Have the windings in the alternator died or has a fuse blown (would expect no charge on the meter for this though, unless it is just an interference reading). Can someone refresh my memory of how to check individual battery cells with a multimeter. I used to know how to do this but can't remember now.
I have posted a couple of POOR photo's of the fuse box. The chart matches the fuses until you get up to where the alternator fuse etc should be. There is a copper rail in a clear box, can someone explain what this is for and how it works?
Thanks
Lyndon
fuse box
fuse box
fuse box
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Reply By: Ross M - Friday, May 23, 2014 at 09:53
Friday, May 23, 2014 at 09:53
Using a clamp meter is an inaccurate way of measuring amps. Unless zeroed and zeroed it can read 4 amps when there is none flowing at all.
If the voltage at the alternator output terminal does not increase when started then there is no output happening. The only way amps can flow is if the pump is higher pressure than the tank.
At a rough guess I would say if the vehicle has a few KM's on it, then the alt brushes are worn out or stuck.
Try applying small hammer to case of alt to shake brushes around. If it then works, clean and service brush holder or fit longer ones which will reach the slip rings..
Fuses will only be blown etc if there has been an anomaly in the system.
The copper bar in the box is either a fuse or a busbar connector for the distribution of 12v power.
AnswerID:
533007
Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Friday, May 23, 2014 at 11:08
Friday, May 23, 2014 at 11:08
Lyndon,
An 8 yr old vehicle is sure to have some dramas. 12.1v doesn't seem high enough for a new battery. What was the voltage with the engine running? Sounds like a trip to an auto sparkle might be the go.
Think it's been a long time since you could test individual cells with a multimeter, they're mostly all fully sealed these days. You can check specific gravity of individual cells with a hydrometer, on many wet cells.
Bob.
AnswerID:
533014
Reply By: HKB Electronics - Friday, May 23, 2014 at 22:12
Friday, May 23, 2014 at 22:12
If the charge warning lamp is lit then the alternator has a problem.
The clear plastic box appears to be a fusible link assembly from what I can see.
If the alternator failed shortly after the battery was replaced I would be checking to see if any wiring has been disturbed or possibly if someone has unplugged a alternator connection and not plugged it in properly.
Another possibility is the original battery was ok and the alternator was failing, now completely
Also check the ALT-S fuse is ok.
Cheers
Leigh
AnswerID:
533064
Reply By: Road Warrior - Friday, May 23, 2014 at 22:18
Friday, May 23, 2014 at 22:18
Yes the copper bar looks like it could be a fusible link, but 12.1v in the battery is a flat battery, big time. What volts is the alt putting out when the engine is running
AnswerID:
533065
Follow Up By: Ross M - Friday, May 23, 2014 at 22:48
Friday, May 23, 2014 at 22:48
If the battery is 12.1v then the alt isn't working to bring the battery up, so the charge actual voltage and amps will be O.
FollowupID:
816368
Follow Up By: Road Warrior - Saturday, May 24, 2014 at 18:05
Saturday, May 24, 2014 at 18:05
Ah, but the alternator could still be producing current just not enough to recharge the battery or provide enough juice to run the car, the alternator in our old AU Falcon wagon crapped itself (left me stranded half way between Katanning and
Broomehill) but still putting out 11-ish volts
FollowupID:
816409
Reply By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 24, 2014 at 17:09
Saturday, May 24, 2014 at 17:09
I would probably check the alternator over run pulley to see is it has had a free run failure....... Surprised non of the experts have mentioned it as it is getting more common and we have started to replace the on the early D4D's a few year ago.
But then again what would I know anyway!
AnswerID:
533100
Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 24, 2014 at 17:16
Saturday, May 24, 2014 at 17:16
Sorry.... Free spin failure, thinking of the vehicle running and alternator not charging...... Mind thought one word and hands typed another.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Sunday, May 25, 2014 at 16:24
Sunday, May 25, 2014 at 16:24
Olcoolone,
You'd better enlighten me mate. Wouldn't have a clue what you're talking about. Is this free spin thingy like a centrifugal clutch? Protects the belts if the alt. bearings seize up?
Thanks,
Bob
FollowupID:
816457
Follow Up By: olcoolone - Monday, May 26, 2014 at 15:48
Monday, May 26, 2014 at 15:48
This is the easiest way to explain it.....
http://cms.gates.com/~/media/education/Files/Tools%20for%20Schools%20Decoupler%202011Dec%202011%20final.pdf
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Member - lyndon NT - Sunday, May 25, 2014 at 08:52
Sunday, May 25, 2014 at 08:52
Update.
Alt has started charging again and battery is back at 12.65V. Warning light is still on, wonder if that will have to be manually reset even when problem fixed?
Yes, the BUS on the left is the fuse for the ALT, never seen anything like it but then I don't know beep!
| Now is the only time you own
Decide now what you will,
Place faith not in tomorrow
For the clock may then be still
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AnswerID:
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