high lift jacking points

Submitted: Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 03:35
ThreadID: 108025 Views:4341 Replies:4 FollowUps:2
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Hi all,

Just wondering where the best points to use your hilift jack are.

I have a 75 series troopy, it has the factory (ARB?) bullbar, there seems to be these little cut outs on either side of the bottom of the bar where the leg of the jack would locate nicely.

Just not sure if the bar has the strength to actually jack from. I have seen some bars with the little "T" section which I assume is also for locating the jack.

I also have the brush bars that run from the bull bar to the beginning of the rear wheel arch, they are U-bolted to the chassis in about 4 locations. The U-bolts are quite sturdy looking but I'm not sure if they are designed to support the weight of the car.

Apart from that there's not really any other places on the car that I can actually get the jack under.

If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them.

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Reply By: MactrolPod - Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 08:10

Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 08:10
rb where ever you put the jack to lift you have to make sure it wont slide sideways on the lifting point.
Using a brush bar or side step / slider which are normally round is really dangerous, those jacks slide really easily.
The safest way to lift is by using a "Lift Mate" on the wheels, its a pain to use if changing a wheel as once lifted you need to support the vehicle with blocks or whatever then release the jack.
You get one shot at this life, don't stuff it up by being unsafe.
Lifting with Hilift jacks can go wrong really quick.
AnswerID: 533492

Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 09:02

Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 09:02
This "Lift Mate" accesory can be real handy. Watch this video by Pat Callinan for a demo of its use directly on a wheel.

My Troopy also has no dedicated lift points on the bumpers but the Lift Mate can hook under the bar in a position where it will not slip. It was also to advantage on the front bullbar as the top leans forward and otherwise obstructs the jack. I have also used it as intended directly on a wheel to good effect where it had slipped into a washout.

Mine came from ARB.

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FollowupID: 816866

Follow Up By: MactrolPod - Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 09:20

Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 09:20
Will try using mine as you suggest Allan, make it an even more versatile bit of equipment
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Reply By: The Bantam - Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 21:06

Saturday, May 31, 2014 at 21:06
There are two camps regarding high lift jacks....for and against.

There are a lot of people who recon that high lift jacks are neither use nor ornament.....there are also those who think they are gods gift to 4wders.

the truth is....a hell of a lot of vehicles a high lift jack is no use at all...mostly because there is no good place to attach them where they are secure and do not foul on the body.

Back in the day when 4wds had big heavy bumpers front and rear and or all encompasing bar work...and those bumpers where away from the body...like on a 45 series or early nissan....they where probaly a fabulous thing.
But with the modern vehicles with their pedestrian friendly fronts and pasenger car style body work....their helpfull ness is lessening.

AnswerID: 533519

Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Sunday, Jun 01, 2014 at 16:06

Sunday, Jun 01, 2014 at 16:06

Would expect an ARB bar to be able to withstand lifting with your jack. The side rails should also support some lifting, if it was done adjacent to the u-bolt mounting points. I'd take some care to make sure the hi-lift is vertical, looking from the side of vehicle,and be aware that the angle of the jack shaft moves, to some degree, towards the shiny panels of your troops. Only trouble with using a hi-lift jack if you're bogged, is the vehicle has to go up a long way , before the wheels start to rise.

Watch out for the handle on those jacks! We had a jillaroo evacuated by RFDS, when she was hit on the jaw by a hi-lift. She wasn't heavy enough to hold the handle securely! Though she was certainly strong enough.

A better solution, and probably somewhat safer, is to use a bottle jack, on a adequate base plate, and jack against the upper edge of the rim, or under the hub on the axle. This will give immediate lift, and as long as you have plenty of packing, to go under the tyre, then you'll soon escape the problem. I've even used a Toyota bottle jack, on the free-wheel end of the hub, and got out of my predicament in 30-40 minutes.

Not at home at moment, but might post a photo later in the week.


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AnswerID: 533555

Reply By: Batt's - Thursday, Jun 05, 2014 at 18:16

Thursday, Jun 05, 2014 at 18:16
I had one mounted on the step of my old 40 ser back in the 80's it was a handy bit of gear but you can easily scratch your paint or even dent your panel with one because of the nature of the jack which wouldn't matter too much on an old car but would make a mess of a new one . Now days if I was to get something I would probably look an exhaust jack as a better option.
AnswerID: 533786

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