Low Beam not working

Problem fixed, both globes had blown.

Thanks to all for replying.

Wato

Ha ha! I got caught like that when I was a kid, didn't consider the obvious, spent hours tracking wires, ran a temporary wire to test & found 2 blown globes!

As a matter of interest did you have power bulbs fitted, some of the equivalent higher wattage globes can have a very short life?

Did notice the name on the globes, but I know the auto elec and told him I want ones that will last. 2 globes cost $33 + fitting.

If no relay, how do the lights become OFF when the stalk switch is operated.
Is it via HEAVY wires right up to the stalk headlight switch? the high /low being different to the headlight switch of course. That means all the current has to go to the stalk switch and then to the lights to be then returned to the stalk switch H/L contacts for earthing to negative???

Low beam and High beam signal doesn't come out of the stalk switch AFAIK because it actually goes into the stalk switch for connection to neg.

Strange there is no relay for the basic heavy switching.
Can you post a circuit diagram of how it is done?

Definitely a deviation from all previous Toyota headlight wiring if that way.

The current shape Hilux doesn't have headlight relays for some strange reason unlike most of the other Toyota's.

The combi switch is earth and there is constant battery voltage to the globes via fuses.

We have never seen an issue with them unlike other that don't use relays.

certainly does, like the 100 series they are embedded into the main fuse box

"certainly does, like the 100 series they are embedded into the main fuse box"

Where are they?

What is the relay number?

Have you seen them or is it "I think they have"

Maybe the one I owned for 5 years and all the others I have worked on for some strange reason didn't have them.....LOL

Can you show me on the wiring diagram where they are?

Just dragged up the wiring diagram.... funny no mention on there either..... they must of forgot it....

Ross here is a link to the Hilux wiring diagram, page 84 is the headlights.

http://vib.prospectiuni.ro/DOC/auto/06_Hilux_Manual_Complete/vigo%20ebook/EWD%20(HILUX_Thailand).pdf

No relay on the original wiring on my KZN130 Surf either. Voltage at the headlight with the light running (and engine running) was a pathetic 10.7 V ! Fitted a relay and the improvement was amazing.
Fitting the relay was a bit of a challenge though - with Toyotas negative switching !
Easiest way to establish if there is a relay and where it is - lift the bonnet and have someone flick from high to low - you will hear the relay clicking if there is one.

Sorry but really that doesn't make sense, a normal alternator will put out around 14.4V@24C. A boosted alternator puts out around 14.2V to 14.4V@24C more or less the same as a standard alternator, mind you any temperature compensated alternator can run anywhere between 13.2V to 15V or higher depending on the ambient temperature conditions.

A typical headlight bulb has to deal with these fluctuations but the European standard for headlight globes from memory is an operating voltage around 13.2V

In a typical car setup the headlight wiring will drop around 1V to 1.5V or more hence the thriving market in after market headlight wiring forms.

So in reality the bulb will generally be running at around 13.2V or less, ie it's design voltage.

With regards to higher wattage ones, I assume you mean higher equivalent wattage types, their is a reason standard bulbs produce less output, it is called lifespan! Higher equivalent output bulbs run hotter, hotter equates to shorter life spans. That is why they are rated at 25%, 50% & 75% more equivalent power. You will also note one or two manufactures now offer longer life lower power versions.

Simply fact is if you want maximum life then use standard globes.

A booster diode on a 2006 alternator will be higher than the standard 14.4-ish figure. That's what I was getting at. No, not a clever combination but that doesn't rule it out.

Higher wattage lamps i.e. headlights which are generally run with hotter filaments (rather than say instrument lights) and are more prone to premature filament failure. Even you should be aware of that.

The booster diode is not intended for use on a standard alternator under normal conditions though some users do run them for varying reasons.

It is mainly designed for use on high compensation, low voltage output types to restore the output voltage to normal levels as you would have found out if you bothered to do some research!

And just for your information there are 2006 and earlier models running high compensation type alternators.