Normal engine temp

And face the vehicle INTO the breeze.

Hi Wayne,
you working the 4by show in syd this year, will have to pop alonb n say g'day...
cheers steve.

Steve,

I will be at the Darling Harbour 18-21 March and might be at the Rosehill 17- 25 April. The only reason I will not be at the Rosehill Show is if I have to go to the Victorian High Country for a week.
Hope to catch up with you soon.

WayneAlways Out'N About

Wayne,
I think we've mixed up our C's with our F's, if the waters at 120 degrees C we're smokin.......... Depends what thermostat you've got in, the usual is around 83 degrees C for a petrol motor, I have a 73 degree C thermostat just in case, the air con also tends to reduce the radiators efficiency, like to be on the cooler side, prsonal preference that's all.Keep the shiny side up

Martyn,

The 73 degree C thermostat you have will open at 73C, the temperature of the fluid in the radiator gets well over 100C. Remember the radiator is under pressure and this raises the boiling point of the fluid.

I just picked those numbers out of my head as a comparision and not a true temperature.

WayneAlways Out'N About

Wayne,
I understand the bit about raising the boiling point with pressure, this can also be done with addtives to decrease the purity of the water, to a point, if this is the case why does the average temp gauge not go above 120 degrees C? When the engine is at "normal temp" the temp gauge operates around the 80 to 85 degree mark with a 73 degree thermostat in which I would expect, I've also run an infra red temp gun over the header tanks, to measure the efficiency of the radiator, (I had some overheating issues with my diesel GQ this is why I went to extremes) and I couldn't get a reading anywhere near a hundred degrees C, thankfully. Don't get me wrong Wayne I'm not having a go I'm just interested, the pressure cap on my GQ was around the 13 psi I think, and I'm not sure how many degrees 1 psi raises the boiling point either for that matter.
The problem with my GQ was the filler neck depth it was shorter than standard so the pressure cap was increasing the pressure to I don't know how much, I know it was enough to blow the rows of tubes from oblong to round blocking the air flow and crushing the fins, everytime the engine cooled down the rows where sucked flat again, it was only the damage to the fins that gave the problem away. Really a big problem, someones solution was to put two jubilee clips on all the hoses so they stopped leaking. I bought a not genuine 3 core radiator when I installed a turbo (trying to do a job cheaply), in the end I got my original two core radiator re-cored (if there is such a word) and never had another problem.
Keep the shiny side up