oil catch can filter foam

Submitted: Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 17:21
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I am going to make my own oil catch can.

I would prefer to use a foam type filter than stainless steel scourer. The Nissan ref doc on Patrol4x4 build your own recommends "Uni-Filter RF 405 Safari Snorkel Pod filter" I have been unable to find this, what else is everyone using, or can someone tell me where I can get it from.

Thanks, Kevin
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Reply By: Member - John - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:16

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:16
G'day, this may be what you seek or the other one? Plenty more on fleabay

Can't post links sorry.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNI-FILTER-SAFARI-SNORKEL-RAM-HEAD-COVER-PRE-FILTER-43-BLACK-/201129393193?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed43efc29#ht_3083wt_1363

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AIRFLOW-SNORKEL-3-PRE-CLEANER-FILTER-SOCK-/291217465747?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43cde9e193#ht_4969wt_1363
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Follow Up By: Les PK Ranger - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:31

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:31
You can post website links using the 'Insert Link' button below the reply window John :)

Eg . . .
UNI FILTER - SAFARI SNORKEL - RAM HEAD COVER PRE FILTER #43 - BLACK
AIRFLOW SNORKEL 3" PRE-CLEANER FILTER SOCK

Though I think the OP was after something like this . . .
Foam filter cylinder



Or maybe this ? . . .

Paper filtercylinder

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Follow Up By: Member - PhilD_NT - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 19:12

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 19:12
The course type foam that Les pictured above could be found at an Uphosterer's place or at a foam /rubber supplier. I bought an offcut of similar material quite cheaply after checking at a few places. Similar foam is used for the primary filter on some fish pond pumps but they are expensive compared to just buying some foam sheet that will make up some spares as well. As to getting blocked up, if you think that your engine has that much blow by then you should be checking the can regularly anyway. There's no reason why you couldn't make up a suitable can for very few dollars. I made up one with an old International Roast coffee can that lasted for many years. It didn't look pretty but that wasn't its purpose.
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Reply By: HKB Electronics - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:34

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:34
I would keep in mind, the usual stainless steel mesh will provide some cooling effect that will
help the oil mist condense out and the steel mesh will also drain freely.

If you use foam you need to ensure the foam won't clog with oil and slug prevent free airflow else the pressure will be up in your sump.

If you want a filter type unit I would recommend you go for a provent type unit, they have safety measures built in should the filter get blocked such as pressure release and pressure bypass.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Les PK Ranger - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:47

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 18:47
Very true, the Provent uses a paper filter, but has 2 relief valves, one in case of excessive crank case pressure, the other as a bypass valve should the filter become too clogged and need renewing.

I have a Provent 200 fitted, and now at 30k since fitting is due for a change.
The replacement filters are around the $65 mark, so if building your own, you can work towards a reasonably more economical option.
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Reply By: 116hynes - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 19:37

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 19:37
I am aware of the Provent 200 and how good they are, they are also too big to fit in the available space I have, which is why I am making my own. My concern with s/s as a filter medium is if any strands come loose any go thru turbo, i/c and onwards.

Kevin
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Follow Up By: Life Member - Terry 80FTE - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 21:06

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 21:06
Hi Kevin,
You haven't mentioned what capacity engine you have, but you may find a home built catch can, that is smaller than a Provent and plumbed back through the intake, won't stop the oil going through to the engine,
due to the intake air speed.
The Provent is purpose built to handle it and sized to engine size.
I used the s/s pads like John used with metal gauze to secure it, then the fumes went around a baffle to exit out the top.
Unless vented to atmosphere (not legal), the can will most likely need to be larger than 3ltrs on a 3ltr turbo engine.
Others may have more on this.
If you have a size and configuration that works, it would be good to see the plans/photos for others to build.
Good luck and hope this helps
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Les PK Ranger - Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 09:39

Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 09:39
For $148 and a bit of shipping, I would just 'can' (sorry :D) the idea of home made, and get one that will do the job right.
You might make this thing and find it just doesn't stop as much, or it may clog up faster, etc etc.

They aren't THAT big (220 x 107 dia plus a couple of fittings sticking out), and if you fit a soup can size home made thing it will likely not do the job.

I got mine from this place Chip Tuning Provent 200
As far as I can see, they have the best price on these.

They also have filters at best price I have found . . .
Chip Tuning Provent filter

Although you can clean them ok too.
I am getting a spare, and then rotating them after cleaning, mine now at 50k.
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Follow Up By: HKB Electronics - Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 10:43

Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 10:43
I would be wary of the one from chip tuning as it is a Chinese
copy of the Provent, I thought the maker of provent was taking legal action against these cheap imports but they still seem to be selling them.

There was a lot of discussion of this on Prado Point before Chipit who used to sell the same thing (may be operating under Chip Tuning now) went belly up.

The makers of the Provent tested the copies and stated they didn't work as well as the original and that the pressure relief and bypass functions didn't work at all. The filters apparently won't fit in the genuine item and vice versa.

I have one of the copies in my car and it does catch some oil, if I had known at the time it was a copy I wouldn't have brought it though, I would have gone for the genuine Hummell unit.

o Tunit and due to If you do a search on Prado Point you will find a lot of discuss

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Follow Up By: HKB Electronics - Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 10:44

Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 10:44
Please ignore last line of above, should have been edited out.

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Follow Up By: Les PK Ranger - Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 11:02

Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 11:02
HKB, thnaks for the heads up, I thought this was a genuine one, but looking at the ad again says 'style' !
Just found this link . . . Provent copies

I am happy with the unit, valves do move when operated manually.
I will be cleaning my MAP sensor again soon, so will compare with the build up found at 50k, and now at just over 80k.

What will be interesting is seeing what bother the MAP, and inside the hose to the turbo are like.
The MAP was pretty clogged, and the hose was fairly oily inside.
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Reply By: Member - John - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 19:45

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 19:45
I used these type of s/s pads, very suitable for catch can. LesPK, I can't post links using the tab.........hence the links here.

http://www.globeequipment.com/Content/Images/434_1.jpg
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Follow Up By: Les PK Ranger - Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 09:30

Saturday, Aug 23, 2014 at 09:30
That should do the trick, looks like it would work well in a home made filter. Sort of a continuous length.
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Reply By: The Bantam - Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 23:49

Friday, Aug 22, 2014 at 23:49
If you are concerned about the stanless scourer breaking up and getting into the works I would be far more concerned about the foam.

The foam pictured above is a flter foam that has been arround for quite some time, one brand name for it is "Mirocel".....it has been used for various purposes from the old ram flow filters, airconditioning filters to speaker grills....I useed a few square meters of it my self

Yes it is oil and solvent tolerant to some extent, but let me assure you that it perishes, breaks down and falls appart.

Those stanless scourers are pretty tightly woven and more or less continuous strands....back 30 years or so that is all many lawn mowers and air compressors had for air filters.....oiled stanless wool.
The likelyhood of strands comming loose is pretty small.


now back to youir catch can.

remember one thing,

the primary way that catch cans and other condensation chambers work is to slow and cool the air flow.....if the oil remains vapour, it will go straight thru any type of filter you put in there.

The same applies to compressed air...if air remains hot and the liquid remains vapour it will go straight thru any filter or trap you put it thru.

SO, two things are important, surface area to cool the chamber and cross-sectional area.

If the air is cooled and slowed sufficiently the oil will drop out of airflow with no help required from a filter material.

There are a number of things you can do to improve efficiency like
mounting the chamber somewhere cool
making sure the inlet and outlet are seperated as much as possible
introducing a swirling action so the incomming air contacts the sides of the container thus promoting condensation.

But the major efficiency factors are crossectional area and surface area.

cheers
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