Charging Caravan Batteries

Yes quite simple but fit fuses or breakers too.

Regards

Derek from ABR

G'day George,

I have my Landcruiser set up much as Derek has laid out. I have heavy cables from the main cranking batteries to a deep cycle AGM 100 AH auxiliary battery. In this circuit I have a VSR to prevent discharging the cranking batteries when running an Engel fridge.
I have run heavy positive and negative cables from the auxiliary battery to a 50 amp Anderson plug at the rear of the vehicle. The van also has an Anderson plug. I just plug the 2 together while traveling and that takes care of the van batteries. I can isolate this circuit with a battery isolator switch if not required. When we stop in a caravan park with power we keep the Engel in the car running and the vehicle battery charged up by connecting an extension cable with Anderson plugs on either end. This allows the vehicle battery to be charged by the Smart Charger in the van. I do this because you can't always park the car in a position to make the connection as you would on the road.
Might sound complex to lay it out in words but is pretty simple in practice and works well.
As Derek has pointed out make sure all cable runs are protected by fuses. Most important, and use nice heavy cables to prevent voltage drop.
I used the caravan park set up with 12v cables rather than what I have seen where guys plug a 240v cable in through a window and switch their on board fridges to 240.
A bit dangerous in my mind.

Cheers
Pop

Have you thought of trying solar?

I have 4 batteries in my van and no connection to tow vehicle. They are kept fully charged solely by solar (4 panels)

If the weather was heavy overcast for several days I would head for a caravan park where a battery charger in the van would take over. Still get small amount of power in light rain.

Alan

George,

Have a look at this web site. Look at the bottom of this page... I think it supports the other advice offered. I too have a LC but the 200 variety and this is exactly how mine is setup. I had the same gear in my Jeep GC before this also. Worked a treat for many years.

In my opinion and experience, solar and dc to dc chargers are over rated.
If you can reduce the voltage drop to a very low figure you can't beat charging batteries from the alternator.
For solar you need a massive system to run all day just to put in as much as an hours worth of driving.
Compare the cost and weight and wind drag of say 4x 120 sold panels, dcdc charger to just running wires to the back of the vehicle through a voltage regulator.
The KISS method is the best and cheapest.
If you are not driving for at least an hour a day than the solar path may be worthwhile but only with at least 2 x 120 watt panels.

Only my opinion.

Honky

All wire needs to be not less than 6 B&S to ovoid voltage loss.

Yes George, your proposal will work but will require adequately sized cables between the two auxiliary batteries. I suggest 6B&S.

You may also care to look at my blog Auxiliary Battery Systems - Wiring Diagrams for further information and alternative arrangements together with other useful links.