1hz using oil!

Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 21, 2014 at 21:52
ThreadID: 109892 Views:10449 Replies:11 FollowUps:9
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Hey i'm after some advice from some 1hz owners out there!

I just purchased a 1996 HZJ75 ute with 360,000 on the clock. I took it for a good long run yesterday and it seemed to use about 500mil of oil in a single 90km run? I had flushed and changed the oil the day before, used a quality filter and RX Super oil. Im also aware the 1hz dipsitck takes a while to show the actual oil level so I always leave it overnight before I check it.

The hose running from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold also has a fair bit of black oil in it, as does the actual inlet manifold where the hose runs into (as per the pictures). Is this normal? Or possibly a sign of excessive blow by?

Image 1 - http://imageshack.com/a/img912/9060/koDzKX.jpg

Image 2 - http://imageshack.com/a/img537/2821/R7yoc2.jpg

What are your guys thoughts? Worn piston rings? She doesn't seem too underpowered, does blow a little bit of black smoke but nothing major. Going to take her for another long run tomorrow and see what happens.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

cheers

Hallam
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Reply By: pop2jocem - Tuesday, Oct 21, 2014 at 23:22

Tuesday, Oct 21, 2014 at 23:22
Hallam,

I'm not sure what you are expecting from a 1996 HZJ75 with 360,000 k's under it's belt and who knows what servicing it has had and how it has been treated in that time.

My old truck, a 1991 HZJ75 originally had the venerable 1HZ engine living under the bonnet for 280,000 k's and serviced by me from the time of purchase back in 1994 and with, from memory, something like 80,000 k's to it's credit.
Towards the end it would use about 1 liter of oil between changes which were done at around 10,000 k's. I probably should have done them a bit sooner.
The black in the inlet and breather pipe is to be expected from a pre-combustion chamber (indirect injection) engine without all the whizz bang CRD high pressure direct injection management systems.
Does it start up when cold OK?
What colour smoke does it blow when cold?
You say it blows a bit of black smoke. Is that when accelerating or on startup?
These engines are generally good reliable old bangers but not exactly infested with power. Even when neglected a bit they still seem to keep coming back for more.
If you haven't already maybe treat the old beast to a new air cleaner element and get the injectors checked and repaired if necessary.

Cheers
Pop
AnswerID: 540669

Reply By: The Bantam - Tuesday, Oct 21, 2014 at 23:41

Tuesday, Oct 21, 2014 at 23:41
If its been neglected, wrong oil used, not changed frequently enough...the rings might be gummed up.

A bit of time running a decent oil.....rx super is not my preference... but its not shabby by any means...and the right type & viscosity.

I'd be giving it a little time, a couple of good runs and a few short oil changes before I got worried about it.

It may improve...for the cost of a few liters of oil ( baught at the right price) and a couple of filters...its certainly worth a punt.

cheers
AnswerID: 540670

Reply By: get outmore - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 00:19

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 00:19
hmmm. 1hz generally dont use alot of oil. my last one had over 300k my current one over 400. they use a bit but not so you need to add between services
blow by through the breathers is normal
my 80 used to leak a bit of oil fron the inlet manifolds from this.
I would be changing the oil then checking it first thing in the morning with it parked in the same spot to determine usage.
AnswerID: 540671

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 06:25

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 06:25
I notice you did a flush. What with?
My daughter's 1Hz (with 240k on the clock) missed a few services from the previous owner. We did a few changes with a high detergent diesel oil to clean it up a bit. That was fine except it used oil. But oil consumption has gradually reduced so topping up is no longer required (it's done 320k now). I put it down to the "clean up" shifting carbon etc around the bores and rings.
AnswerID: 540673

Reply By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 09:44

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 09:44
This seems pretty obvious but may have been overlooked..................
A new (and empty) filter holds about 500ml of oil, so after refilling the engine to the dipstick mark it is necessary to run the engine for a short time to fill the filter. Then recheck the dipstick and top-up to compensate for the filter fill.
Then do the "long run" to check for oil consumption.
Cheers
Allan

Member
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AnswerID: 540674

Follow Up By: get outmore - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 10:00

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 10:00
yes I would definitly be monitering over a much longer period using the method i said above (only in the morning after being left all night and parked in the same spot)

ive found its easy to get variable readings as it can take several hours for the full level to show on the dipstick after driving and fairly minor angles of parking can make differences.

I find after a fill the oil is usually just over the full mark (10L) and after driving its about 1/2 on the dipstick (about 500ml Ithink that is)
and it takes more than an hour for the oil to return to previous level
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FollowupID: 826571

Reply By: Athol W1 - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 11:14

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 11:14
Hallam
The photo's that you have shown are not uncommon, as most diesel vehicles will carry some oil vapour in the breather system and into the inlet manifold.

Excessive blow by can be detected by running the engine with that breather hose removed, and if there is a substantial gas flow from the tappet cover side then you MAY have something to be concerned about.

As you have recently purchased this vehicle I would suggest another oil & filter change in the near future (not more than 5000km) using quality diesel oil (Castrol RX is not my choice of oil, just a personal preference) and I would also suggest that the vehicle be asked to perform some heavy work (a decent hill climb or some heavy trailer towing) as an incorrect oil used in the past, or excessive oil change period, could cause glazing of the bore. This heavy work (not lugging or over revving the engine but at mid range and full throttle) can sometimes just reseat the rings and bore.

Having said that remember that ALL engines do use some oil, if no they are not being adequately lubricated, although oil used is often replaced with the by products of combustion.

Hope this helps.
Regards
Athol
Retired Motor Mechanic.
AnswerID: 540678

Reply By: Grumblebum and the Dragon - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 15:34

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 15:34
My 2000 model 1Hz has done 300,000. No detectable use of oil between changes at 5000 and towing a heavy van. I add two stroke TCW3 oil to the fuel in a ration of 1: 200. This (I believe) provide better lubrication for low sulphur diesel fuel and very good cleaning properties. I also have a K&N air filter fitted which has improved fuel efficiency a bit from around 4.8k/L to 5.0k/L (Towing) and it definitely holds the gears better on hills and pulls better.

John
AnswerID: 540683

Follow Up By: Grumblebum and the Dragon - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 15:35

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 15:35
I have used Castrol RX in the past - what 'better' oils do you recommend?

Thanks

John
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FollowupID: 826576

Follow Up By: Bigfish - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 18:11

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 18:11
Please, please, please...use whatever oil you have been using...

The "which oil to use" has been done to death......

cheers
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FollowupID: 826592

Follow Up By: Slow one - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 21:47

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 21:47
John,
I know this has nothing to do with oil consumption but you have mentioned a K&N filter, obviously you don't use the vehicle in dust.

I hope you realise the dust protection of a K&N filter off road.

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FollowupID: 826615

Reply By: Ross M - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 22:34

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2014 at 22:34
On some engines which have a metallic filter at the exit of the cam cover, they can become very clogged, yours sounds like it will be too.
The idea of the mesh is to allow condensation and separation of the majority of oil from the exiting blowby gasses. ie, oil runs back into the engine and gas escapes to inlet manifold carrying a small amount of oil mist.

I the mesh is clogged it usually only then acts as a funnel and nearly ALL localized oil and gas goes out the breather and into the intake air stream.
If this is happening it will be feeding a large amount of oil into the intake and making it USE OIL alarmingly quickly.

Perhaps a clean it that nearly always overlooked, very insignificant, but very important filter is all that is required. Only after fully being cleaned will any other measure or action taken begin to mean anything.

That filter has caused many engine rebuilds. Just clean the filter first, please.
Cam cover off and clean it all thoroughly.
I endorse bantams comments.
AnswerID: 540708

Follow Up By: Hallam - Friday, Oct 24, 2014 at 08:52

Friday, Oct 24, 2014 at 08:52
Where us this metallic filter located? Near the PCV hose? Ill have to have a look at it.

cheers

Hallam
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FollowupID: 826672

Reply By: Hallam - Friday, Oct 24, 2014 at 08:51

Friday, Oct 24, 2014 at 08:51
Apologies for the late reply, I was locked out of this forum for 2 days for some reason.

Thanks for all the replies. I took it for another long run day before yesterday and did about 140km and it didn't use a drop of oil this time! Im putting it down to having something to do with the nulon oil flush I used, either that, or there was a build up crap in the sump like condensation or fuel.

Im aware the oil filter holds up to 500ml, and I ran the car for a long time after the oil change before I checked the dipsitck.

Cheers for all the input anyway, this is a great forum.

Hallam
AnswerID: 540770

Reply By: Fossil Phill - Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 02:14

Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 02:14
If you want to know what the correct oil to use is, the answer is Castrol J-Max.
It was the oil developed for Japenese diesel engines of that era.
I have a rather long & detailed tech article on it somewhere if you want some not so light reading.
J-max (as distinct from current J-max2) has not bee available with that label for some time, but after much research I found it is still made by Castrol due to the insistance of Komatsu, and it is available in 20 litre drums as Komatsu Diesel Engine Oil for about $110.
There are Komatsu dealers around Australia, so not too hard to get.
It is the only oil that has the correct amount of ash and some other ingredient, to do with the distance between the top ring & the piston crown.
The wrong oil causes problems in that area, but having said all that, there would be hardly anyone out there besides me that would be using J-Max, and I am not reading about problems in that area on any of the forums or facebook groups where Toyotas & Nissans are very popular, so I wouldn't get my knickers in a knot over oil brand.
be sure to change it every 5,000km, and the filter at least every 10,000km. If you are using non genuine oil filters, I would change them every 5,000km myself.
The genuine ones are dear, but they are very different inside to any of the others I have cut open (Fleetguard, Sakura, Ryco). I have some pics of the innards of gens & the sakura and fleetguard, and the difference is not insignificant, so you get what you pay for. Toyota recommend their filter change period every 10,000km.
Good news that it seems to be not drinking oil any more.
If you do have problems with it, or if you don't want to have problems with it in future, you might want to research MBL8.
Cheers, PhillT
AnswerID: 540837

Follow Up By: Hallam - Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 20:12

Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 20:12
Is this the J-max you are referring to - http://www.castrolrx.com.au/castrol-rx-j-max.php

Might use that next time then as its specified for Japanese engines like you say. Not sure why the castrol site suggested rx super over J-max.

I used a repco filter, which I think are better quality than Ryco, as they are more expensive. Although I will be using genuine filters next time.
Will be changing oil and filter every 5000 as well.

cheers
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FollowupID: 826739

Follow Up By: Fossil Phill - Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 21:20

Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 21:20
That one has only 1% sulphated ash, so that it can meet JASO-DH2 requirements. (low ash)

Ideally you want about 1.7% ash.

Here are some results of research done a couple of years ago.
Some of them are probably not available now.

All these are JASO DH-1 The top 3 marked * are believed to be all Castrol J-max

* Komatsu 15w40 (1.7% ash) (TBN 14.4) 20 litres $116

* Castrol Tection j-max (1.7% ash) (TBN 14.4) $119

* Hino Diesel X (1.7% ash) (TBN 14.4) ($129)

BP Vanellus C4 Global (1.62% ash) (Discontinued)

Gulf Western J-Power (1.51% Ash) (TBN 13.2)

Gulf Western Farm Oil 15w-40 (1.5% ash) (TBN 8)

Caltex Delo400 (1.5% ash) (TBN 12.2) (Zinc 0.15%) (Phos. 0.13%)

Mobil Agri Super 15w-40 (1.5% ash)

Shell Rimula RX3 (1.44% ash)

Mobil Delvac 1630 & 1640 Mono (sae30 & sae40) (1.4% ash)

Castrol RX Super 15W-40 (1.39% ash)

Penrite Diesel FX 15w-40 (1.34% ash) (TBN 10.7) (Full Zinc 0.122%) Phos. 0.11%)

Penrite HPR Diesel 15W-50 (1.34% ash) (TBN 10.7) (Phos 0.11%) (Zinc 0.122%) Semi synthetic

Someone mentioned running 2-stroke in you fuel in a post.
I have been using it for years, at 200:1 and I believe it is a good idea. If you do want to use it, just remember to use a mineral 2-stroke not a synthetic.

Someone was keen enough to do a trial of a whole lot of diesel additives a while back, and the results are below. My first choice would have been Bio-diesel as an additive, but I can't get it around here, and the 2-stroke isn't that far behind.

The following are the preliminary results of a research study on diesel fuel Lubricity Additives. There is likely to be further commentary and explanation added at a future time.

PURPOSE:

The purpose of this research was to determine the ability of multiple diesel fuel additives to replace the vital lubricity component in ULSD (Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel) fuel.

HISTORY:

ULSD fuel is the fuel currently mandated for use in all on road diesel engines. This fuel burns cleaner and is less polluting than it’s predecessor, called Low Sulfer Diesel Fuel. Low sulfer fuel contained less than 500 ppm of sulfer. ULSD contains 15 ppm or less.
As diesel fuel is further refined to remove the polluting sulfer, it is inadvertently stripped of its lubricating properties. This vital lubrication is a necessary component of the diesel fuel as it prevents wear in the fuel delivery system. Specifically, it lubricates pumps, high pressure pumps and injectors. Traditional Low sulfer diesel fuel typically contained enough lubricating ability to suffice the needs of these vital components. ULSD fuel, on the other hand, is considered to be very “dry” and incapable of lubricating vital fuel delivery components. As a result, these components are at risk of premature and even catastrophic failure when ULSD fuel is introduced to the system. As a result, all oil companies producing ULSD fuel must replace the lost lubricity with additives. All ULSD fuel purchased at retail fuel stations SHOULD be adequately treated with additives to replace this lost lubricity. The potential result of using inadequately treated fuel, as indicated above, can be catastrophic. There have been many documented cases of randomly tested samples of diesel fuel. These tests prove that often times the fuel we purchase is not adequately treated and may therefore contribute to accelerated wear of our fuel delivery systems. For this reason it may be prudent to use an after market diesel fuel additive to ENSURE adequate lubrication of the fuel delivery system. Additionally, many additives can offer added benefits such as cetane improver, and water separators or emulsifiers.

CONTENT:

In this study we will test multiple diesel fuel additives designed to replace lost lubricity. The primary component of this study is a side-by-side laboratory analysis of each additive’s ability to replace this vital lubricity. Additionally, claims of improving cetane, water separation or emulsification, bio-diesel compatibility and alcohol content will be noted. These notes were derived from information that was readily available to consumers (via the label and internet information) and none of this information has been evaluated for validity and/or performance. Cetane information has only been noted if the word “cetane” was used in the advertising information. The words “improves power” has not been translated to mean “improves cetane” in this evaluation. Information on alcohol content is provided by indicating “contains no alcohol”. Omission of the words “contains no alcohol” does not imply that it does contain alcohol. This information was simply missing in the information available to a consumer. However, the possibility of a form of alcohol in these products is possible. Additionally, information on dosages and cost per tankful are included for comparison purposes.

How Diesel Fuel Is Evaluated For Lubricating Ability:

Diesel fuel and other fluids are tested for lubricating ability using a device called a “High Frequency Reciprocating Rig” or HFRR. The HFRR is currently the Internationally accepted, standardized method to evaluate fluids for lubricating ability. It uses a ball bearing that reciprocates or moves back and forth on a metal surface at a very high frequency for a duration of 90 minutes. The machine does this while the ball bearing and metal surface are immersed in the test fluid (in this case, treated diesel fuel). At the end of the test the ball bearing is examined under a microscope and the “wear scar” on the ball bearing is measured in microns. The larger the wear scar, the poorer the lubricating ability of the fluid. Southwest Research runs every sample twice and averages the size of the wear scar.
The U.S. standard for diesel fuel says a commercially available diesel fuel should produce a wear scar of no greater than 520 microns. The Engine Manufacturers Association had requested a standard of a wear scar no greater than 460 microns, typical of the pre-ULSD fuels. Most experts agree that a 520 micron standard is adequate, but also that the lower the wear scar the better.

METHOD:

An independent research firm in Texas was hired to do the laboratory work. The cost of the research was paid for voluntarily by the participating additive manufacturers. Declining to participate and pay for the research were the following companies: Amsoil and Power Service. Because these are popular products it was determined that they needed to be included in the study. These products were tested using funds collected by diesel enthusiasts at “dieselplace.com”. Additionally, unconventional additives such as 2-cycle oil and used motor oil were tested for their abilities to aid in diesel fuel lubricity. These were also paid for by members of “dieselplace.com”.
The study was conducted in the following manner:
-The Research firm obtained a quantity of “untreated” ULSD fuel from a supplier. This fuel was basic ULSD fuel intended for use in diesel engines. However, this sample was acquired PRIOR to any attempt to additize the fuel for the purpose of replacing lost lubricity. In other words, it was a “worst case scenario, very dry diesel fuel” that would likely cause damage to any fuel delivery system. This fuel was tested using the HFRR at the Southwest Research Laboratory. This fuel was determined to have a very high HFRR score of 636 microns, typical of an untreated ULSD fuel. It was determined that this batch of fuel would be utilized as the baseline fuel for testing all of the additives. The baseline fuel HFRR score of 636 would be used as the control sample. All additives tested would be evaluated on their ability to replace lost lubricity to the fuel by comparing their scores to the control sample. Any score under 636 shows improvement to the fuels ability to lubricate the fuel delivery system of a diesel engine.

BLIND STUDY:

In order to ensure a completely unbiased approach to the study, the following steps were taken:
Each additive tested was obtained independently via internet or over the counter purchases. The only exceptions were Opti-Lube XPD and the bio-diesel sample. The reason for this is because Opti-Lube XPD additive was considered “experimental” at the time of test enrollment and was not yet on the market. It was sent directly from Opti-Lube company. The bio-diesel sample was sponsored by Renewable Energy Group. One of their suppliers, E.H. Wolf and Sons in Slinger, Wisconsin supplied us with a sample of 100% soybean based bio-diesel. This sample was used to blend with the baseline fuel to create a 2% bio-diesel for testing.
Each additive was bottled separately in identical glass containers. The bottles were labeled only with a number. This number corresponded to the additive contained in the bottle. The order of numbering was done randomly by drawing names out of a hat. Only Spicer Research held the key to the additives in each bottle.
The additive samples were then sent in a box to An independent research firm. The only information given them was the ratio of fuel to be added to each additive sample. For example, bottle “A” needs to be mixed at a ratio of “480-1”. The ratio used for each additive was the “prescribed dosage” found on the bottle label for that product. Used motor oil and 2-cycle oil were tested at a rationally chosen ratio of 200:1.
The Research Laboratory mixed the proper ratio of each “bottled fluid” into a separate container containing the baseline fuel. The data, therefore, is meaningful because every additive is tested in the same way using the same fuel. A side-by-side comparison of the effectiveness of each additive is now obtainable.

THE RESULTS:

These results are listed in the order of performance in the HFRR test. The baseline fuel used in every test started at an HFRR score of 636. The score shown is the tested HFRR score of the baseline fuel/additive blend.
Also included is the wear scar improvement provided by the additive as well as other claimed benefits of the additive. Each additive is also categorized as a Multi-purpose additive, Multi-purpose + anti-gel, Lubricity only, non-conventional, or as an additive capable of treating both gasoline and diesel fuel.
As a convenience to the reader there is also information on price per treated tank of diesel fuel (using a 26 gallon tank), and dosage per 26 gallon tank provided as “ounces of additive per 26 gallon tank”.

In Order Of Performance:

1) 2% REG SoyPower biodiesel
HFRR 221, 415 micron improvement.
50:1 ratio of baseline fuel to 100% biodiesel
66.56 oz. of 100% biodiesel per 26 gallons of diesel fuel
Price: market value

2)Opti-Lube XPD
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver, demulsifier
HFRR 317, 319 micron improvement.
256:1 ratio
13 oz/tank
$4.35/tank

3)FPPF RV, Bus, SUV Diesel/Gas fuel treatment
Gas and Diesel
cetane improver, emulsifier
HFRR 439, 197 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.60/tank

4)Opti-Lube Summer Blend
Multi-purpose
demulsifier
HFRR 447, 189 micron improvement
3000:1 ratio
1.11 oz/tank
$0.68/tank

5)Opti-Lube Winter Blend
Muti-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver
HFRR 461, 175 micron improvement
512:1 ratio
6.5 oz/tank
$3.65/tank

6)Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver, emulsifier, bio-diesel compatible
HFRR 470, 166 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.87/tank

7)Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 engine oil
Unconventional (Not ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 or newer systems)
HFRR 474, 162 micron improvement
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
$1.09/tank

8)Stanadyne Lubricity Formula
Lubricity Only
demulsifier, 5% bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 479, 157 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.00/tank

9)Amsoil Diesel Concentrate
Multi-purpose
demulsifier, bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 488, 148 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.16/tank

10)Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
Multi-purpose
Cetane improver, bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 575, 61 micron improvement
400:1 ratio
8.32 oz/tank
$1.58/tank

11)Howe’s Meaner Power Kleaner
Multi-purpose
Alcohol free
HFRR 586, 50 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.36/tank

12)Stanadyne Performance Formula
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
cetane improver, demulsifier, 5% bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 603, 33 micron improvement
480:1 ratio
6.9 oz/tank
$4.35/tank

13)Used Motor Oil, Shell Rotella T 15w40, 5,000 miles used.
Unconventional (Not ULSD compliant, may damage systems)
HFRR 634, 2 micron improvement
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
price: market value

14)Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant
Gas or diesel
HFRR 641, 5 microns worse than baseline (statistically insignificant change)
427:1 ratio
7.8 oz/tank
$2.65/tank

15)B1000 Diesel Fuel Conditioner by Milligan Biotech
Multi-purpose, canola oil based additive
HFRR 644, 8 microns worse than baseline (statistically insignificant change)
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$2.67/tank

16)FPPF Lubricity Plus Fuel Power
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Emulsifier, alcohol free
HFRR 675, 39 microns worse than baseline fuel
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.12/tank

17)Marvel Mystery Oil
Gas, oil and Diesel fuel additive (NOT ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 and newer systems)
HFRR 678, 42 microns worse than baseline fuel.
320:1 ratio
10.4 oz/tank
$3.22/tank

18)ValvTect Diesel Guard Heavy Duty/Marine Diesel Fuel Additive
Multi-purpose
Cetane improver, emulsifier, alcohol free
HFRR 696, 60 microns worse than baseline fuel
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$2.38/tank

19)Primrose Power Blend 2003
Multi-purpose
Cetane boost, bio-diesel compatible, emulsifier
HFRR 711, 75 microns worse than baseline
1066:1 ratio
3.12 oz/tank
$1.39/tank

CONCLUSIONS:

Products 1 through 4 were able to improve the unadditized fuel to an HFRR score of 460 or better. This meets the most strict requirements requested by the Engine Manufacturers Association.
Products 1 through 9 were able to improve the unadditized fuel to an HFRR score of 520 or better, meeting the U.S. diesel fuel requirements for maximum wear scar in a commercially available diesel fuel.
Products 16 through 19 were found to cause the fuel/additive blend to perform worse than the baseline fuel. The cause for this is speculative. This is not unprecedented in HFRR testing and can be caused by alcohol or other components in the additives. Further investigation into the possibilities behind these poor results will investigated.
Any additive testing within +/- 20 microns of the baseline fuel could be considered to have no significant change. The repeatability of this test allows for a +/- 20 micron variability to be considered insignificant.

CREDITS:

This study would not have been possible without the participation of all companies involved and dieselplace.com. A special Thank You to all of the dieselplace.com members who generously donated toward this study and waited longer than they should have for the results. You folks are the best. Arlen Spicer, organizer.
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FollowupID: 826749

Reply By: Ron N - Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 19:31

Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 19:31
If you buy a used vehicle and change the brand of oil you will often find the new brand of oil is incompatible with the brand being used before, and the new brand of oil will change the oil consumption pattern.
Every oil producer uses different additives to try and gain an edge in sales or performance.
In numerous cases, some of these oil additives between different brands are not always compatible.

In the case of current oils, the latest oil offerings for the latest engines fitted with the latest pollution control equipment, contain ever-increasing levels of detergents.
This is because the latest pollution-control designs on the latest model engines, are constructed to ensure that pollutants are sent down past the rings into the oil - and not out the exhaust.
As a result the newest engines require high-detergent-action oils to ensure that they can handle the increased pollutant load that is coming down past the rings.

If you use a current-spec oil in an old, worn engine, the higher levels of detergency will strip out a lot of beneficial carbon, such as that which is assisting in ring sealing - resulting in a sudden increase in oil consumption.

So, on that basis, always purchase the API oil specification that was current when your engine was built.
API oil specifications change every few years to a new API specification lettering.

The current API oil specification for diesels is CJ-4. Using CJ-4 spec oil in an older worn engine that was designed to use an earlier API specification oil, will often cause oil consumption to increase.

API oil specification charts
AnswerID: 540856

Follow Up By: Hallam - Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 20:15

Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 20:15
Thanks for the info. I wonder if RX super contains a lot of detergents? Looks like the engine oil flush I used would have stripped a lot of that beneficial carbon too.

What oil would you recommend then for a 1996 hzj75?

cheers
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FollowupID: 826740

Follow Up By: Ron N - Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 21:09

Saturday, Oct 25, 2014 at 21:09
Hallam - As the 1HZ engine was produced from around the late 1980's, it was designed to use, and is happy using, CE-4 and CF-4 designation oils (-2 designation oils are for 2 stroke diesels).

You may find that CE designation oils are no longer available, and only CF designation oils are.
You will also be told by many oil company executives and oil dealers or resellers that their current CJ-4 oils are "backwards-compatible" and can be used in any diesel engine, including engines built 40 yrs ago.

This is not always true, and you have to "suck it and see" to get a feel for what engine oils performs best in your engine.
In my experience, Castrol oils contain high levels of detergents and a lot of "slippery" additives, that can contribute to oil burning in old engines, if those engines are changed over from the specification and brand they have been using, to a newer specification and a different brand, such as Castrol.

As a result, it always pays to find out (if possible) what brand and specification of oil has been used by the previous owner, and stick with that brand and specification.

Cheers, Ron.
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