What size cable for jumper leads?
Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 11, 2014 at 23:02
ThreadID:
110112
Views:
10111
Replies:
10
FollowUps:
14
This Thread has been Archived
Road Warrior
The brother in law came around earlier to show off his new toy, an XC Falcon coupe. Dead battery, so I got my jump starter pack out to give him a jump, and it wouldn't crank it. The battery in the unit must be on its way out.
I knew I had a set of jumper leads somewhere, which were a set of el-cheapo auto store ones from years ago. I found them, and after a bit of dicking around managed to jump start the big Ford off our car.
The cable got quite warm during this process and smoke poured out of one of the clamps. I binned them and have decided to make my own. I've made a set before, for motorbikes, but those don't have anywhere near the amp capacity to jump a car. Plus the clamps are too small.
Will 4 B&S be sufficient for automotive use? 20mm2 is the cable cross-section, I don't need to be able to jump start a Mack truck but I don't want any burnies or any melting funny business.
I figured this is the place to ask as I have no doubt there would be a few old hands here who still prefer to make and fix their own gear - so any pointers would be appreciated.
Reply By: Ron N - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2014 at 11:30
Wednesday, Nov 12, 2014 at 11:30
Welder cable is the way to go. More importantly, buy a set of heavy duty clamps from an electrical wholesaler.
Heavy duty clamps have real thickness of metal in them, not the paper-thin metal you get in Chinese clamps.
The heavy duty clamps also have heavy duty springs that get a proper grip on the battery terminals.
Solder the wire connections and you have 100% guaranteed connections, no chance of any corrosion.
AnswerID:
541572
Reply By: The Bantam - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2014 at 23:30
Wednesday, Nov 12, 2014 at 23:30
I have to agree that most of the commercially available jumper leads are just rubbish....mostly the cable is more plasitc than copper.
It is actually surprising how light jumper leads can be and still "work", particularly if it is a fairly small low compression petrol engine involved.
But as soon as you start talking about diesels...ahh different story.
years ago I made up some jumper leads out of the modified clips from some cheap jumper leads and some 6mm2 twin and earth scrounged off a building site.
Iver the years they have started many petrol engined cars.....a couple of years ago I tried to jump start a mates diesel
fork lft with them......yeh not going to happen.
20mm2 would be damn fine compared to most commercially available jumper leads.......but if Derric can do 25mm2 at 3m long for $20......HELL.
OH one thing that improves the performance of most jumper leads is butting a copper strap from onejaw to the other.
All the decent welding clamps have this strap and a very few jumper leads.
Strapping the jaws of your clamps improves the connection resistance out of sight.
cheers
AnswerID:
541606
Follow Up By: Ron N - Thursday, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:00
Thursday, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:00
All good points, Bantam - particularly the one about ensuring the clamp jaws are coupled with a strap.
In an act of desperation, I've actually jump started a diesel Commer Knocker truck, using strands of heavy gauge fencing wire, twitched together!
I've got a set of jumper leads made up from 3.5 metres of 400 amp welder cable and the biggest and heaviest-duty booster clamps I could buy from Ashdown-Ingram - because I often have to jump start forklifts, earthmovers, and trucks with big batteries.
There's nothing I've found yet, that those leads can't handle!
The heavy duty booster clamps from Ashdown-Ingram are very conservatively rated, unlike so much of the Chinese consumer rubbish.
I actually bought 8 sets of Chinese "200 amp-rated jumper leads" from Repco last year - when they were throwing them out on special - for $6 a set!
They are bloody useless as jumper leads - but the light-duty clamps and cable are excellent for use in other light lead applications - where you don't need to carry 400 or 600 amps - and I couldn't buy the clamps and the handy light-duty cable individually, for less than $25!
Cheers, Ron.
FollowupID:
827762
Follow Up By: Road Warrior - Thursday, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:08
Thursday, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:08
RE: the bridging strap in the clamps, my Projecta jump starter has that, although it is more like a bridging wire.
Incidentally, when I was looking online at jumper leads, I saw a set of "Michelin" brand (as in the tyre mob) which had this feature - wait for it - Automatic Polarity Correction - meaning that even if you crossed the leads, it would still jump the car. It was a dirty great brain box in the middle of the leads, like a massive spike protector but obviously more to protect people from themselves who perhaps shouldn't be trying to jump start a car in the first place!!!
FollowupID:
827763
Reply By: MactrolPod - Thursday, Nov 13, 2014 at 06:55
Thursday, Nov 13, 2014 at 06:55
I have made some from welding cable, a 50mm lug was a tight fit so call it 50mm cross sectional area cable. Bought some from a mob in Bairnsdale, they are brass clamps with a braided copper strap that links both parts of the clamp, they are rated at 1000amps, with the 5 metres of cable they are very serious leads and unfortunately a bit heavy.
The reason I did this is my batteries failed in the outback, a fellow traveller had 900amp leads from a auto
shop, they were not up to the task and we tow started the car until we could get another battery.
The problem with most clamps is they are plated steel, look good but starting a diesel after preheating just doesn't happen.
That was one brand of leads others may
well be better, that I don't know.
I don't do this for a piddling contest, I simply want them to work when I need them with no problems.
I was going to get a spike / surge arrester, the comments above have me thinking it is not necessary. Interesting.
AnswerID:
541607