Kaymar rear bar - how to lock it closed?
Submitted: Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 13:06
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fredwho
Hi all. I have a kaymar rear bar and would like to secure it locked closed with some sort of mechanism. Wondering it anyone has done a similar thing?
I am creating a light stand with other functionality that will slot into the Kaymar tyre carrier swing out bar. It has taken a fair bit of effort so I don't want it flogged. I can secure it quite
well to the tyre carrier, but the tyre carrier itself could be removed easily by unscrewing the swing arm pivot.
Thinking of the following, bolting on a C shape piece around the catch I can then secure:
I guess a bolt could go through the existing C shape metal around the catch although it doesn't look big enough for a bolt to go through leaving enough meat around it, plus it is bent up at an angle, both parts might mis-align over time with wear and I don't want to reduce the structural integrity of the catch.
Locking it also prevents
the tub door being able to be dropped open, though that is not my reason for doing it.
Thanks for any ideas.
Reply By: Ron N - Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 13:56
Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 13:56
Fred, I'd be wary of using any security that is dependent on bolts that can be unscrewed.
Many thieves are armed with spanners - portable battery-operated stolen power
tools such as drills and angle grinders are a gift to thieves - and a lot carry bolt cutters, also usually stolen from job sites.
If it was my project, I'd be welding a 5mm short section of plate vertically at the LH end of the RHS section, that is welded to both the RHS and the flat plate that sits against the bumper.
Then I'd weld a mating 5mm vertical plate to the bumper, at 90 deg to the bumper, next to the first plate.
I'd then drill a 12mm hole through both plates directly above the centreline of the RHS.
This would allow the insertion of a container padlock through the aligned holes and defeat all but the most determined thief.
A container padlock is almost impossible to cut with bolt cutters, and the welding on of the plates ensures that there's a lot of grinding to be done to try and get the locking mechanism off.
The only hassle with my proposal is the plate sticking out from the bumper that poses a personal injury threat to the likes of knees.
However, there are already two plates in the form of the guide plates sticking out, so I guess one more won't make a vast difference - and you can minimise the projection with chamfered edges and rounded corners.
Cheers, Ron.
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Follow Up By: fredwho - Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 15:01
Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 15:01
Thanks a lot for your thoughts Ron. Your idea sounds good and simple. I sketched up what I think you described.
It would be a good solution for me, but wanting to avoid the cost of having to re powder coat the bar and carrier (after the welding).
I think when it comes to someone having an angle grinder, little will stop them. In the above photo a grinder looks to me like it could clip off the corners releasing the lock.
My thinking was to drop a bolt or thick rod through and have a container padlock (or bike cable) attached through it. Still could be grinded off but it wouldn't need to be powder coated or require modifying the bar in any way (though I am open to it).
Thanks, much appreciated.
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Ron N - Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 19:38
Sunday, Nov 23, 2014 at 19:38
Fred - Yes, that's exactly what I suggested. Yes, the welded area would need protection applied to the powdercoated areas after welding. That is one downside to welding.
Yes, a battery-operated grinder could probably slice through the plates - although it would have to be done from both sides.
Thieves are lazy, and they will never spend time on theft, they're always dreading getting caught in the act, so they need to act fast. Thus, anything you can put on there that slows them, up is good.
Cheers, Ron.
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