SWAP 2F OUT FOR 2H OR 12HT

sorry but what your saying doesnt make much sense

if you want to swap donks you would do so purely for the project reason because nothing else in your thread makes economic, practical or common sense

the amount it will cost you will buy a heap of fuel so doing it to save fuel makes no sense
and swapping a an old 60 series for a 100 series because you can do your own mechanics makes even less sense (you will end up doing a crap load more bush mechanics on an old banger)
i could go on but to sum up
makes no sense unless you enjoy a mecahnical project

Morto - is the 2F in a 40 or 60? If I was going to swap and the extra dollars were no issue, I'd go with the factory 12HT. Avoid any 2H's with aftermarket turbo's... potential time bomb. Ohterwise, a well maintained 2H is damn near indestructable, however slow.

If you own a 40 and REALLY want to know, I'd suggest you ask here.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/724969530855717/

Be nice to Nikky and prove you own a fourty.....

G'day Morto,

I've been rereading old 4wd Monthly magazines because they are more relevant to my needs and my vehicle.

I just read in issue 56, August 2003, a bloke took out the original 3B out of his 1983 BJ42 and put in a 2H out of a 60 series.

He reckons for all the stuffing around it wasn't worth the bother.

Steve

Current vehicles are becoming increasingly complex - and part of the problem is most owners have little understanding of how the electronics in their vehicles actually operate - and how the electronic systems interact with each other.

There's definitely a lot to be said for simplicity - however, a vehicle with a moderate amount of electronics that are properly designed for protection and with robust construction is as reliable as an older vehicle with no electronics.
Many electronic failures are not terminal. ECU's all have limp-home modes that will allow you to drive to a repair centre, if the damage or the problem is not a major silicon-chip failure.

You will, very occasionally, suffer a total ECU failure. These are quite rare today.
Most electronic failures are created by single sensor failure, which is not terminal.
Early ECU's totally failed to operate if just one sensor failed. The engineers have got a bit smarter and the ECU can now generally determine reduced parameters for limited operation if one sensor fails.

Owners can help themselves a lot by learning how their vehicles systems operate and interact.
Then they can ensure they carry out regular maintenance to make sure problems don't develop via neglect.

In order of causing vehicle breakdowns and stoppages, this would be my reasonable estimation (below).
There are RAC and AA reports online that give extensive reporting on breakdowns in other countries, but Australian conditions and your own operating conditions will affect your vehicle differently.

1. Flat tyre. The biggest single % of vehicle stoppage. Carry two spares and learn how to fix flats. A square-cut length of 100x50 hardwood timber placed at right angles to the rim and close to the rim, then driven up on, makes a perfect and simple bead-breaker.

2. Flat battery. Not terminal if you have a 2nd battery, or a jump-start battery pack, or another vehicle. Can be terminal if the battery has suffered total collapse and the voltage falls below 7V, which is usually the cut-off voltage for electronics operation.

Increased levels of "on-board" electrical systems, such as entertainment systems, sat-nav systems and electrically-operated components such as steering, are placing an ever-increasing load on batteries.
Always buy the best battery with the best CCA rating and the longest warranty, that will fit in your battery tray.

3. Cooling system failure. By far the largest reason behind the above two reasons, for vehicle breakdown. The causes are usually neglect of the cooling system - a sure-fire recipe for early engine death.
If your head or block is aluminium alloy, then you need to be super-vigilant on cooling system maintenance.
Keep careful watch on hose condition - particularly heater hoses and any bypass hoses. Replace them as soon as they show signs of cracking when squeezed, or hardening.

Coolant - ensure your coolant has the correct level of factory-recommended inhibitor. DON'T buy "el-cheapo" inhibitors or ready-mixed coolant.
The risk is too great that the "el-cheapo" stuff is poor quality or doesn't have the specific additives required for your head and block.
For Toyotas, I buy the genuine Toyota inhibitor and mix it in the right proportions with rainwater or distilled water. I change the coolant out totally, every 3 years - religiously.

I've got a 13 yr old, alloy-head/cast-iron block Toyota that is still running on all original hoses and original radiator - and it has never had one single cooling-system component changed in 13 yrs.
That's all due to religious changing and checking of the coolant quality.
You could eat your dinner off the inside of the radiator and the head and block.

4. Oil problems. Engine sludge, leaks, and infrequent oil changes mean early engine death. Keep your engine bay washed down regularly and fix leaks as they appear, use top quality oil, and change engine oil frequently.
Don't forget that transmissions and diffs leak, too - so check them regularly. They don't hold much oil.
One BIL destroyed his Hilux transmission when he ran it out of oil due to a slow leak.

5. Electrics. It's not just electronics, but electrics overall, that rely on maintenance to keep operating. Connectors can become corroded if not adequately sealed, particularly those below about 600mm above ground level, where all the moisture and road grime accumulates. You can get a surprise sometimes, by just cleaning up headlight connectors, as to how much it improves headlight brightness. Keep earth straps clean and tight, and keep unsealed connectors and electronic components sealed with some CRC red urethane seal coat.

6. Accessories. You can have starter motor and alternator failures on anything. You can usually get around these fairly simply with manual transmissions and basic vehicles. However, with current automatic vehicles, you are now faced with no choice but immediate replacement, as they are usually unable to be tow-started.
Fortunately, starter motors of today provide pretty reliable performance and usually only fail after around 200-250,000kms of use.

7. Fuel. Fuel contamination is common when using drum fuel or travelling through remote areas. You can protect against fuel contamination by utilising plenty of filtering - both when refuelling, and by installation of additional fuel filtering on the vehicle. Water contamination is common, you must be alert to it.

The bottom line is, a 20 yr old high km vehicle that has not had every major component replaced, is not going to provide any more reliable motoring than a current model electronic vehicle with modest kms, that's kept in good condition.

Cheers, Ron.

To my mind, the whole crux of this discussion is not so much about whether a new well maintained vehicle or an older well maintained vehicle is more likely to fail in a remote location. It's about the fact that either can fail. It's about when you encounter a failure, which is more suitable for a bit of bush surgery to get yourself going well enough to get back to help. With the new stuff you rely more on the maker getting it right in the first place.
See how well your "limp home mode' helps when a crank angle sensor decides to chuck in the towel.
I have been asked many times "what spares should I take apart from the obvious tyre repair stuff, hoses and fan belts"
My reply has often been "what part are you planning to have fail".
No idea where you can buy a box full of lateral thinking. (;=))

Cheers
Pop

A very mild and much cheaper update would be to replace the 2f, with a 3f. 3fs had a shorter stroke and reved much more freely. add a set of extractors and a carby upgrade and bobs your uncle. Generally they gave about 10% better fuel economy then a 2f as well.
A fully rebuilt 3f with and engine balance and blue print will be a long lasting and durable engine and as its the same block should bolt straight up.
cheers Pete

bottom line is with a wagon worth 6 tops.
The most cost efficient way to swap engines is to sell it and buy the wagon with the dont you want unless your doing all the work yourself.
These days unless it's a specific project your into swapping donks is a mugs game cost wise

I work for a rental company for the last 8 years which normally run around 150 vehicles , in that time the only computer problem we had was when we sent and ex mine hiace bus to the detailers and they drowned it. Modern vehicles are incredibly reliable.
Cheers Pete