Fuel Manager

I am looking at getting a Fuel Manager Filter kit for the new 79 Series Dual Cab, my question is -
Do I run it as a pre filter or as a secondary filter?

If I run it as a pre filter (30 micron) I will have the added benefit of having a water alarm wired in as well.

If I run it as a secondary filter (2 or 5 micron) I think I will be leaving it too late to catch water before it enters the injection system.

I am also thinking of getting a Mr Funnel as well for those "Back of Beyond" refuelling occasions

Thoughts


Cheers Kev


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Reply By: Member - Scrubby (VIC) - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:12

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:12
G`day Kev,

You might as well fit one of these while your at it.

Heaps of adds on the tv down here lately `bout a gadget called a "cyclone" or something.

It must be good coz they say it saves heaps of fuel, and the adds are impressive also. LOL


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Follow Up By: Ozrover - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:41

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:41
The HiClowns are a piece of crap, no comparison to the fuel manager pre filter.

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Follow Up By: sweetwill - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 07:31

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 07:31
im hooked Scrubby will order one in the morning.
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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:16

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:16
Sounds good Scrubby, can you order and deliver one for me FOC of course LOL


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Reply By: Ozrover - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:39

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:39
G'day Kev,

I fitted a 30 micron Fuel Manager to my 78/79 series dual cab not long after getting it nearly two years ago.

I change the pre filter every 2nd service & the main fuel filter every service & so far there has been only a very slight mist of silt in the bowl of the main filter & no evidence of water at all.

Compared to the fuel filter on the Mt Dare 79 series ute, which always had a layer of grit & silt in it when changing the fuel filter (no pre filter at the time) it also showed evidence of having water in it (corrosion in the bowl).

I'd say that it is doing it's job, I fitted the pre filter next to the ABS unit, just had to relocate a couple of electrical fittings, plenty of room & easy to change the filter as I fitted my 2nd battery in the tool box in the tray.
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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:17

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:17
Thanks Jeff,

I am tending towards fitting it as a pre filter.

Cheers Kev

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Follow Up By: The Landy - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 11:43

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 11:43
Hey Kev,

Echoing Jeff's comments, I have exactly the same set-up, using a 30-micron pre-filter with water alarm.

I change the OME filter at every service and the pre-filter every 20,000K or every second service.

And I have a Mr Funnel, noting that it is useful to keep solid contaminants from entering the tank and also water. On water though, keep in mind that condensation in the tanks will potentially add water to any tank, and hence the need to have a good pre-filter as another line of defence.

(And thanks to Mick O for his advice on this topic some time ago!)

Cheers – Baz…
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Reply By: Gone Bush (WA) - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:43

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 21:43
Kev, I fitted one of these to my 200 Series:

Pre-filter kit

I fitted it as a pre-filter. That way the OEM filter is still the last one before the engine and Toyota can't whinge about it.

It's 30 micron.

This one removes 99.9% of any water with having to wire in alarm lights etc.

It was an easy job.



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Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 05:17

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 05:17
Water will still go through the filter when the bowl fills up so it is a good idea to fit the alarm sensor to be forewarned
I believe the alarm is an integral part of the system to be effective, you can't see the sight glass when you are driving
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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:20

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:20
GB,

I am looking at the same type of kit from the same supplier :)

I do think that the water alarm is a must have when running it as a pre filter.


Cheers Kev


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Follow Up By: Gone Bush (WA) - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:38

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:38
Here are some pictures of my setup:





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Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 10:19

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 10:19
I have same vehicle and setup but purchased the bracket that they make to suit our vehicle and the unit is mounted on the other side of the engine bay near the acc fuse box
The bracket is a bit pricey but is well made and solid
I like the idea of it being on the other side as it means the fuel lines are longer so more time to pull up and drain bowl when alarm goes off

Make sure you use the 12mm fuel hose not the 10mm as some have reported fuel supply problems when under load
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Follow Up By: The Landy - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 11:47

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 11:47
GB

Basically I have the same set-up, which makes the need to have the alarm essential so you get a warning. A bit of a pain when it comes to changing filters, but no great problem.

Cheers, Baz...
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Reply By: Slow one - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 22:46

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 22:46
Kev,
I would and have fitted the pre filter 30 micron kit. My belief in doing that you achieve a couple of things.
The first one is it allows you to change the filter and drop any water before the ome filter. If contamination occurs while you are servicing this filter the manufacturers filter will catch it.

The 30 micron filter also doesn't interrupt or reduce the fuel flow through the system.

Getting bad fuel from remote servos is not quite right, you can get it from any servo anywhere in Aussie. Condensation is one of the main enemies after the fuel returning to the tank is hot and the night air is cold and humid.

The stanadyne fuel manager is a good product and surprisingly it is fitted to many new vehicles around the world as standard.

I do many K's ( well not so many know) and have never had a problem in any of the vehicles I drive, but there is always the first time and ouch that would hurt.


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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:25

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:25
Slow one,

My "Back of Beyond" reference was filling out of drums etc

Flow rate through the filter was another concern as I have read of some vehicle throwing error codes due to it. From what I can gather is that I will need to use 12mm fuel delivery hose instead of the 10mm to allow a greater flow rate if I use either the 2 or 5 micron filter.


Cheers Kev

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Follow Up By: Slow one - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 11:21

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 11:21
Kev,
if you haven't contacted them already you should get the good oil from Diesel Care seeing they are around your area.

Happy filtering.

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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 17:03

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 17:03
Slow One,

Yes Diesel Care is in Dalby (80km away), just getting some additional advice for the ones who already have one installed as Diesel Care appear to be promoting using the fuel manager as a secondary filter on their web site.

Cheers Kev


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Reply By: PhilD - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 23:27

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 23:27
I installed a 30 micron as a pre filter on my Iveco Daily 4x4, and put some fuel in the second tank to test it. There must have been condensation in the tank as it had been sitting empty for a while, because on switching to that tank the alarm sounded straight away. I drained the trap of a mixture of diesel and some water like stuff and the alarm turned off immediately. So very happy with my Fuel Manager and alarm!
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Reply By: Idler Chris - Vic - Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 23:50

Monday, Jan 05, 2015 at 23:50
Hi Kev, I run the same setup as Gone Bush in a 100series. I see it as insurance if you get bad fuel and/or water you have twice the trapping capacity. What other have said I agree with. You can get bad fuel anywhere, when travelling I make an effort to fillup at truckstops when ever I can, high turnover. Avoid filling if a tanker is filling the servo's tanks as it could be stirring up the crap on the bottom. Fit the water alarm if you like, I have not as I figure the main filter will tell me if there is water. If I was handy at doing it I would fit the alarm. It is a pre-filter catching the larger stuff without restricting the diesel flow enought to cause a problem. The Toyota filter is the best you can get IMHO and I would not have anything after it. In my case I made a bracket to utilise existing holes in the manifold so that I did not have to cut the fuel line from the tank, just took it of the OEM filter and onto the Fuel master. A short fuel line from the Fuelmaster to the OEM filter and the job is done. This means that should you get bad fuel you can easily bypass the Fuelmaster if required by simply taking the fuel line from the tank and puttting back onto the OEM filter. With the Fuelmaster the fuel lines in and out can be on either side, they do not have to be the same which makes for easy fitting. Here are some pics I just took I hope you can understand them. The big hoses are the fuel lines the smaller hoses are air hoses. If you want better pic's just let me know.
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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:30

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 09:30
Thanks Chris,

Have you had any uses with heat being so close to the manifold?


Cheers Kev

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Follow Up By: Idler Chris - Vic - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 10:56

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 10:56
No heat issues. It is not that close.
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Reply By: Idler Chris - Vic - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 00:01

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 00:01
Most people I know who get a Mr Funnel usually end up leaving it at home they are a pain to use. Must be upright and the smaller ones would take 45 minutes to fill my tanks. The bigger one is quicker but a pain to store. Bad fuel can happen anywhere so if you get one you should plan on using EVERY time you fill. Its all to hard for most. Having said that you could get a glass jar, say about a litre, and take samples as you fill. This way if you get bad fuel you know about it before it does damage and while you are still at the servo. If you do this and some big burly truckie wants to punch your lights out for taking so long, just tell him you are testing the diesel because you have heard that there might be bad fuel and you are testing it for him.LOL
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Follow Up By: Top End Az - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 03:12

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 03:12
I agree. Bought a Mr Funnel and after using it once it now sits in the shed. They do a good job filtering, but a pain to use on a regular basis.
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Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 05:12

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 05:12
Haven't used one myself but was told they don't really work on bowser pumped fuel as any water is agitated in with the fuel
They are designed for decanting out of a drum
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Follow Up By: Mick O - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 22:32

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 22:32
Gents, you must not be familiar with the 'swirl' factor or vortex effect when using these funnels. I've got a good length of hose on mine to allow it a bit more flexibility. With the funnel fairly vertical, by pouring the fuel to the side filter pickup you get the fuel moving in a circular direction. It will pick up speed and then all of a sudden the vortex effect kicks in and it will suck down the fuel as fast as you can pour it from a jerry. 20 litres in no time flat.

Should add this is on the single outlet funnels only. Haven't been able to get a double outlet funnel swirling to date.


Cheers

Mick

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Follow Up By: Idler Chris - Vic - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:07

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:07
Hi Mick, never heard of the 'swirl' factor will have to give it a try. Would I be right in saying that to keep the funnel vertical that you have to have someone hold it? And secondly have you tried this on filling from a bowser and it work there?
Cheers Chris
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Follow Up By: Member - Blue M - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:27

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:27
Myself, I think the best way to get advise about a fuel filter system is to talk to the people who drive diesels and live in these outback towns that you are to frightened to fill up at. They should have the best filteration systems on the market, as they fill up there all year round. Either that or the local mechanic must have a half a 44 gallon drum full of stuffed injectors out the back of his work shop.
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Follow Up By: Alan S (WA) - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2015 at 11:22

Wednesday, Jan 07, 2015 at 11:22
Chris

I made up a piece of bent pipe, using 25mm Upvc pipe and a 15d elbow, with a 25mm x 40 (or it may be 50mm bush). The funnel end sits in the end of the pipe, and the 15 d elbow means that it is sitting relatively level. The bush slides up and down the bit of pipe that goes into the fuel tank, and the large bit sits over the tank openning. This assembly holds the funnel upright and level.

I also have a tanami pump so i only hae to hold a small hose while pouring, becomes very easy to get a swirling effect. Except for the splatter when th jerry can becomes empty.

I got the idea of the pipe from a picture here so it is not an original idea of mine.

alan
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 10:23

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 10:23
Hi Sir Kev,
There's a lot more to clean fuel than filtration. I've changed my own filters on diesels for the past 20 years and have only ever once found a drop of water. My suggestions:
- Only buy from recently built servos or very high turnover (truck stops) - water and algae is less likely
- Buy brand name diesel - BP is my choice wherever possible.
- Keep tanks full to reduce condensation
- Use an algaecide (I use Chemtech) every tank. It also deals with emulsified water.
- Store extra fuel in jerry cans and pour from the top into a gauzed filter. Water and rubbish sits at the bottom. Never use a pump from a drum as it pulls the fuel from the bottom of the tank. If you needed to use a pump, decant into jerry cans and let it settle over a day or two.
- Don't fit long range tanks (you already have 130L on the dual cab), as you have a greater chance of fuel stagnating and collecting condensation and algae. Also factory tanks are more reliable out bush.

When it comes to filters, the genuine factory filter should be the last one before the pump. Never interrupt the hose between the filter and pump - too much chance you'll introduce unfiltered dirt. I agree with Toyota that these filters should be rarely changed - because each new filter has a chance of introducing foreign material (might even just be fluff).

I also have a Stanadyne 30u prefilter as the first line - to catch initial water or algae - change this one as often as you like, but leave the factory one alone. I'd usually change before major trips or at the start of my touring season.

Just what I do...




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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 17:00

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 17:00
Thanks for your thoughts Phil.

I agree re the 2nd tank, I have looked into it and think it is not worth the $$ to either upgrade the standard 130l for a 180l or get the 110l secondary tank.
110l is only 5.5 jerries and I have capacity of carrying 3 x 20l jerries on the camper so don't think I will need any more than that.

I have also been talking to a Toyota Foreman Mechanic and he agree with using it as a primary filter but to run a 2 micron filter element, to increase the chance of catching any water in the system.

Has anyone also installed the hand primer pump to the Fuel Manager Filter? As I have also heard that it can be a pain to bleed the system when changing filter elements.


Cheers Kev

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Follow Up By: Gone Bush (WA) - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 18:41

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 18:41
Kev, when I fitted my kit, priming was easy and quick.

No problems.

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Follow Up By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 18:56

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 18:56
GB,

Was reading the 76 Series Fuel Manager thread on the 70 Series page on LCOOL and a few have had issues priming the system, hence the question.


Cheers Kev

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Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 19:28

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 19:28
I have drained my bowl about a dozen times and I haven't had any priming issues
Takes a few pumps to get fuel back through but it is not a problem
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Follow Up By: Idler Chris - Vic - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 22:57

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 22:57
Never had a problem priming mine.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:11

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:11
Chris, Stephen and Alby, the reason it may have priming issues is because the aftermarket filter needs to be mounted on the drivers side, while the factory filter stays on the passengers side (with the ABS updated 79series. So you need an extra couple of metres of fuel line to mount the Fuel Manager on the drivers side, while keeping the factory filter on the passengers side. My guess is that the hoses sits higher than either filter, so air gets trapped. As Sir Kev mentioned before, this long hose needs to be at least 12mm to prevent restriction.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:14

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 23:14
Apology to Alby - didn't realise you also have the later 79series :-( But I still think the way you route the hoses could be an issue.
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Reply By: Member - John (Vic) - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 20:18

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 20:18
Pre filter setups is the best way to go as others have said.

Get the seperate warning light system so it remains independent of the OME filter.
Also buy the primer top for the unit, makes life much easier :)
The Dieselcare stainless mount that fit on the drivers side, bolts under the power steering reservoir is what I have and the system works perfectly.



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Reply By: Ross M - Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 22:16

Tuesday, Jan 06, 2015 at 22:16
A pre filter of 30 micron is OK for a conventional diesel pre or main filter But is not very effective as a pre for a CRD engine of any make.

A 30 micron will ease the contaminant load on the OE filter but still allow danger size particles through to the main.
A 10 or even 5 micron of suitable area/flow size is far better and it will allow normal flow and also save the OE filter from a load of crap, be it particulates or algae.

Dewatering feature is essential in any filter. If it doesn't dewater then it isn't going to do much at all. 30 will allow water in suspension, ie homogenized water in the fuel to simply pass to the OE main filter.
All a matter of degree of protection.
Nothing is perfect, but no way is a 30 micron going on any of my CRD vehicles for any reason. I want at least some protection.
My transfer pump from aux tank to main tank has an 11 micron dewater filter with bowl.
AnswerID: 543835

Reply By: Sir Kev & Darkie - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2015 at 15:50

Wednesday, Jan 07, 2015 at 15:50
OK,

I have been into Diesel Care, Dalby and spoken with the branch manager about the system.

Diesel care push to have the Fuel Manager as the secondary filter with a 5 micron filter as well as water trap alarm.

I discussed at length my intended use and wanting to have the Fuel Manager as a pre filter. He agreed to my logic (that is if the alarm goes off when I am remote I do not want to be compromising the fuel system by changing the filter in dirty conditions if it is the last line of defense).

So after all that I am going to get them to install the Fuel Manager with Water alarm as a pre filter initially with a 30 micron filter element and possibly change that to a 5 micron element. Their kit for the 79 Series Daul cab is to install it on the drivers side with 12mm deliver hose.

For those who are interested in $$

The Filter kit is $310
The water Alarm System is $230
Fitting for them in Dalby - $120

Replacement filter elements are approx. $40 each


Cheers Kev
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