Stripped Wheel Stud on current BT-50

Submitted: Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 07:46
ThreadID: 111152 Views:9669 Replies:9 FollowUps:6
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Had the unpleasant experience of stripping the thread on on a rear wheel stud while changing a flat.
Rang Mazda the next morning to get a replacement and was informed that they don't supply wheel studs and for a rear stud, would need to buy the whole axle assembly at approximately $ 1200.00. If it was a front wheel stud, you would need to buy the whole front Hub.
Not Happy, I thought I would try the local Ford dealership. They said it was the same for the Ranger. But, Bursons had an aftermarket available. I had to take the sample down to them to get a match, But they were able to supply a replacement that afternoon. I bought four at approx $9.00 each. The Stud is made By "Nice"and the part No is NS376.
At this point, Burson's don't have it as a cross reference'. I don't know if the front wheel studs are the same.
Also be aware that in the BT-50's at least, They supply a two piece wheel nut which are useless and the fancy chrome plated Cap can easily free spin making it difficult to remove unless you Bash a socket onto it. I ended up buying aftermarket solid wheel nuts for peace of mind.


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Reply By: Sigmund - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 08:49

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 08:49

Thee seems to be a lot of that 'buy the whole assembly' stuff going on.

This is my price gouging story: my motorbike didn't come with a centre stand and to buy the factory unit (no one else makes one) is $800!

No wonder vehicles get written off with only minor damage.
AnswerID: 546105

Reply By: Member - mechpete - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 11:15

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 11:15
how did you manage to strip a wheel stud??
AnswerID: 546110

Follow Up By: Howard W1 - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 18:34

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 18:34
I work in mines and got a puncture.
Went to the LV workshop to use their trolley jack and rattle gun.

Was advised by the mechs that they have had similar probs with Nissan's as they apparently have a very fine thread.

They also use a small dab of antiseize on the threads, careful not to put on the bevel.

They also put the wheel nuts on by hand to start before they use the rattle gun, then torque it up.

I was only trying to undo the wheel nut, should not have mattered whether it was by hand or gun

FollowupID: 833857

Follow Up By: Frank P (NSW) - Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 14:55

Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 14:55

I reckon that's a symptom of over-tightening, probably by someone using a rattle gun.

On one of our trips my mate got a slow puncture half way across the Simpson. Tried to undo the wheel nuts but they were impossible. He had to use a breaker bar and stand on it. The first stud snapped off.

The second (nearly opposite, it was a 5 stud pattern on a 100 Series) after loosening a bit got an internal crossed thread and would neither re-tighten nor undo. So we finished the Simpson with him being very careful on three remaining and presumably grossly over-torqued studs on that wheel. And topping up the tyre every couple of hours.

He didn't carry spare stud then, he does now.

He had paid an specialist 4WD shop big money for an extensive pre-trip service which included tyre rotation.

I NEVER allow my tyre place to use a rattle gun, even with a torque bar. I insist they hand tighten and I will finish it off myself with a torque wrench at pick-up.


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FollowupID: 833919

Reply By: Ron N - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 12:01

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 12:01
A trailer and caravan parts supply crowd will usually stock a wide range of wheel studs.
Wheel studs are usually a pretty basic design.
Have Mazda/Ford started making wheel studs that are totally and completely oddball?

That is complete and utter BS, having to buy a complete axle just because a wheel stud has stripped.
What happens if you damage an engine component, now? You have to buy a complete new engine??

Must be about time they sealed the bonnet and stuck the household whitegoods decal on them - "No User Serviceable Parts Inside"!
Nothing like "advances in modern design" to make you realise the words are just marketing hype, and the old designs were simply better.

Cheers, Ron.
AnswerID: 546111

Follow Up By: pop2jocem - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 13:52

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 13:52
Not just Mazda I know but this instance happened to be a Mazda van that the guy had converted into a camper. Now this happened around the late 80's and was an earlier '80s model van.
The bloke happened to be a mechanic that was working alongside me at the time so knew his way around vehicles. He found that one of the drive shaft uni joints was cactus. He also found it was a non standard uni and that Mazda wanted to sell him a complete driveshaft at some exorbitant price.
He took the driveshaft to a local engineering joint and for about half the price of a new unit had it converted to take standard sized uni joints and balanced so that if they died again he could just bang new ones in.
The replacement ones were also greasable whereas the original Mazda ones were "sealed for life". Whatever that was supposed to be.
So this practice started quite a while back.

FollowupID: 833836

Reply By: Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 12:17

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 12:17
Hi Howard,

I, too, am wondering how you stripped the stud.

But then I went and had a look at one of the wheel nuts on my BT50.The nut is quite shallow - there's not much thread, is there? Especially if some pimply-faced gorilla over-tightens it with a rattle gun. And I agree with you re that silly 2-piece construction. Surely that's designed to fail. And if it does, the nut itself is inaccessible so as you say you'd have to abuse your tools and bash a socket onto it. Like you, I think I will buy a full set of aftermarket solid replacements.


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AnswerID: 546112

Reply By: Rick (S.A.) - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 12:41

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 12:41
I bought a new BT 50 3 years ago.

I ordered a set of studs & nuts from the Mazda dealer, as spares to be carried at all times.
They arrived weeks later (none in Oz) for about $ 112 for 6 x nuts & studs.

Be aware that the nut covered in chrome is 19mm; if the chrome flakes off it's 18 mm [from memory - can't check as the BT50 is away having maintenance done].

I also have a torque wrench and a good wheel nut cross brace - although my Bridgestone bloke always torques them up by hand as a final practice.

PS - I am also using wheel nut movement tabs. I've witnessed nasty thing through loose nuts/stripped studs etc, out in the sticks, so prevention is better than cure, IMHO.

AnswerID: 546116

Follow Up By: Norm C (WA) - Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 15:58

Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 15:58
If they are the same as the 08 Ranger Front and
rear studs are different Lengths
FollowupID: 833925

Reply By: Mick O - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 15:00

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 15:00
$1200....OUCH! Glad you were able to find a repalcement at a suitable price. I've always carried a spare set of studs and nuts for every Nissan/Toyota I've driven over the years for that unfortunate contingency. I reckon you got off lightly though lol ;-)

''We knew from the experience of well-known travelers that the
trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
Richard Maurice - 1903

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AnswerID: 546121

Reply By: Member - Fab72 (Paradise SA) - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 17:09

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 17:09
G'day Howard,
I've had a couple of recent wins.
1. BMW 318 climate control module acting erratically. Quoted $1200 for a new one....30 cents later for a resistor from Jaycar and the job was done.

2. A/C amplifier on a 1993 Mitsi Lancer died. $690 for a new one. $6 for a relay and some wire bypassed the troublesome relay and the A/C works fine.

3. Swimming pool salt water chlorinator user interface panel died. $800 for a new one with no guarantee that it would fix the problem and if not $1600 for a complete new unit. 15 minutes and a dob of solder and it works again.

There's not too many people out there with even a basic understanding of electronics anymore. But there sure is a lot of people wanting to sell you a complete off the shelf replacement unit.

AnswerID: 546129

Follow Up By: Howard W1 - Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 19:04

Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 19:04
Youre Rare Fab, Not many people ( me included ) have that creative capacity'. Majority just accept and cop it.

How many people these days reckon it's a bonus if there white goods or TV's, stereos last more than 5 years, and if they pack up just replace it
FollowupID: 833940

Reply By: tuck - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 19:44

Wednesday, Feb 18, 2015 at 19:44
Howard you said you stripped the stud not the nut. Is the stud part of the molded axle and not a separate item. If this was the case you would have to buy the whole assembly not just a stud
AnswerID: 546138

Follow Up By: Howard W1 - Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 13:33

Thursday, Feb 19, 2015 at 13:33
Hi tuck,

Yes it is a separate item, Ford and Mazda for whatever reason, choose not to sell it as a separate item. The nut was stuffed also but you can get them easy.
FollowupID: 833912

Reply By: 671 - Saturday, Feb 21, 2015 at 00:50

Saturday, Feb 21, 2015 at 00:50
"They also use a small dab of antiseize on the threads, careful not to put on the bevel."


Never put antiseize on wheel studs. It is designed to make nuts easier to undo which is fine on stationary objects that are not subjected to constantly varying levels of stress. A wheel nut is just the opposite. The stress on them is always changing and this is the main reason why incorrectly tightened nuts work themselves loose.

There is a bit more information on the subject here

My guess is your stud broke because of distortion of the thread during over-tightening. Nuts can easily jam on stretched threads and lock up solid. This results in people applying even more pressure to them as they try and get them off. This stretches the already stretched stud a little more and it breaks.

The correct tightening of wheel nuts is critical yet few people seem to be aware of it. It is just as important as cylinder head studs and internal engine bolts.

The easiest thing to do is follow the instructions in the vehicle owner’s handbook. It will give you the correct tension and most likely add information like clean dry threads, no lubricants on the threads, the nut tightening sequence etc.

You will also find the wheel brace supplied with the car is not as useless as it looks. An average strength driver should be ably to undo a correctly tensioned nut with that tool but not significantly over tighten it prior to doing the final tightening with a tension wrench.
AnswerID: 546283

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