Stripped Wheel Stud on current BT-50

Wow.

Thee seems to be a lot of that 'buy the whole assembly' stuff going on.

This is my price gouging story: my motorbike didn't come with a centre stand and to buy the factory unit (no one else makes one) is $800!

No wonder vehicles get written off with only minor damage.

how did you manage to strip a wheel stud??
mechpete

A trailer and caravan parts supply crowd will usually stock a wide range of wheel studs.
Wheel studs are usually a pretty basic design.
Have Mazda/Ford started making wheel studs that are totally and completely oddball?

That is complete and utter BS, having to buy a complete axle just because a wheel stud has stripped.
What happens if you damage an engine component, now? You have to buy a complete new engine??

Must be about time they sealed the bonnet and stuck the household whitegoods decal on them - "No User Serviceable Parts Inside"!
Nothing like "advances in modern design" to make you realise the words are just marketing hype, and the old designs were simply better.

Cheers, Ron.

Hi Howard,

I, too, am wondering how you stripped the stud.

But then I went and had a look at one of the wheel nuts on my BT50.The nut is quite shallow - there's not much thread, is there? Especially if some pimply-faced gorilla over-tightens it with a rattle gun. And I agree with you re that silly 2-piece construction. Surely that's designed to fail. And if it does, the nut itself is inaccessible so as you say you'd have to abuse your tools and bash a socket onto it. Like you, I think I will buy a full set of aftermarket solid replacements.

Cheers

I bought a new BT 50 3 years ago.

I ordered a set of studs & nuts from the Mazda dealer, as spares to be carried at all times.
They arrived weeks later (none in Oz) for about $ 112 for 6 x nuts & studs.

Be aware that the nut covered in chrome is 19mm; if the chrome flakes off it's 18 mm [from memory - can't check as the BT50 is away having maintenance done].

I also have a torque wrench and a good wheel nut cross brace - although my Bridgestone bloke always torques them up by hand as a final practice.

PS - I am also using wheel nut movement tabs. I've witnessed nasty thing through loose nuts/stripped studs etc, out in the sticks, so prevention is better than cure, IMHO.

Cheers

$1200....OUCH! Glad you were able to find a repalcement at a suitable price. I've always carried a spare set of studs and nuts for every Nissan/Toyota I've driven over the years for that unfortunate contingency. I reckon you got off lightly though lol ;-)

G'day Howard,
I've had a couple of recent wins.
1. BMW 318 climate control module acting erratically. Quoted $1200 for a new one....30 cents later for a resistor from Jaycar and the job was done.

2. A/C amplifier on a 1993 Mitsi Lancer died. $690 for a new one. $6 for a relay and some wire bypassed the troublesome relay and the A/C works fine.

3. Swimming pool salt water chlorinator user interface panel died. $800 for a new one with no guarantee that it would fix the problem and if not $1600 for a complete new unit. 15 minutes and a dob of solder and it works again.

There's not too many people out there with even a basic understanding of electronics anymore. But there sure is a lot of people wanting to sell you a complete off the shelf replacement unit.

Fab.

Howard you said you stripped the stud not the nut. Is the stud part of the molded axle and not a separate item. If this was the case you would have to buy the whole assembly not just a stud
Tuck

"They also use a small dab of antiseize on the threads, careful not to put on the bevel."
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Howard

Never put antiseize on wheel studs. It is designed to make nuts easier to undo which is fine on stationary objects that are not subjected to constantly varying levels of stress. A wheel nut is just the opposite. The stress on them is always changing and this is the main reason why incorrectly tightened nuts work themselves loose.

There is a bit more information on the subject herehttp://caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/why-wheels-fall-off-caravans/

My guess is your stud broke because of distortion of the thread during over-tightening. Nuts can easily jam on stretched threads and lock up solid. This results in people applying even more pressure to them as they try and get them off. This stretches the already stretched stud a little more and it breaks.

The correct tightening of wheel nuts is critical yet few people seem to be aware of it. It is just as important as cylinder head studs and internal engine bolts.

The easiest thing to do is follow the instructions in the vehicle owner’s handbook. It will give you the correct tension and most likely add information like clean dry threads, no lubricants on the threads, the nut tightening sequence etc.

You will also find the wheel brace supplied with the car is not as useless as it looks. An average strength driver should be ably to undo a correctly tensioned nut with that tool but not significantly over tighten it prior to doing the final tightening with a tension wrench.