Rust prevention.

Kanga,

You ever seen a rusty fish? :-). Go with the fisholene.....

The couple of times I've used it, it dries to glossy finish. Imagine prep would be the thing, removing the rust before applying the Fisholene.

Bob

Hi Kanga

I've been using a mix of fisholene and Tectyl 506 for over 20 years, works really well, only smells for the first week. Its a bit soft, subject to stone chipping on the exposed chassis etc but fine on 'internals'.

regards
dermie

As an own Landy owner from way back, I know where you're coming from.
You could try http://knockout-rust.com.au/.
I've been using it for a few years now and reckon it's a cracker of a product. In my opinion superior to both Tectyl and Fisholene.

hi
Valvoline Tectyl 506 good . Never mixed with fisholene, sounds like a good idea
The company who makes tectyl makes better products but they r not imported by valvoline oz

Fuchs oil does have rust preventive also ,a huge range and they available with in Australia
Import vehicles did used to be transported with a heavy wax which was very hard to remove . Give Fuchs a call they may have something similar.

Swampfox

If you're able to scratch away flaky bits what's stopping you from rubbing it back with sandpaper and painting it then you will have gotten rid of the problem instead of hiding it. The rust will still slowly be getting worse you have just covered it up and slowed it down. These products can be rubbed off if it's in an exposed area high traffic area and paint and clear coat will stand up a lot better. I use tectyl and lanolin but never to hide rust.

I used sump oil throughout the chassis and inside panels of a 4x4 years ago, was on the beach 3 days a week most week for long time and rust never became an issue for the duration that I had the vehicle at least.

I've treated the steel chassis of a 109 Landrover with Exit-Rust, over 15 yrs ago, and it has performed perfectly as a steel rust-preventative in all that time.
Exit-Rust leaves a dark-blue, iron tannate coating on the steel.
This coating chemically removes all rust and stabilises the surface of the metal and continues to prevent rust from forming.

Iron tannate comes from the bark of poplar trees, and this is the reason there is little rust in areas where poplar trees predominate.
You may have seen the Russian tank video, where a WW2 tank was hauled from a pond in a forest in Eastern Europe, after more than 60 years under the water.
The tank was rust free due to the poplar trees that lined the ponds banks. The trees had added iron tannate to the pond water and thus preserved the tank.

Phosphoric acid is O.K., but it can be washed off easily, and rust reforms when it is washed off.

Fishoil is well known as a rust preventative, but it can smell for quite a while.

Another product I use is Metalfix rust-preventative paint. It's expensive, but it is 100% effective.
The paint is water based, and it contains phosphoric acid and it reacts with rust to neutralise it, and then seals the surface.
It has no smell, is totally non-toxic, and you can wash your paintbrush out in water.

All you do is scrape off the flaky rust, wash the surface to be treated, let it dry and paint it.

The paint dries quickly and sets hard and resists 1000 degree temperature, acids, oils, pure salt water, and 100 other corrosive elements with outstanding ability.
You can paint over the top of Metalfix with any other paint.

Cheers, Ron.