Radiator coolants
Submitted: Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 08:53
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cokeaddict
Hi guys,
Just got off the phone to Natrad radiator people. Asked a simple question...got a complicated answer. maybe someone here can answer it easier than they did.
I am going to pull my radiator out for a high pressure wash (mud) I want it cleaned out before i change coolant ratrher than do the job twice.
My question to them was...how much they charge. Its a $99.00 charge which seemed ok with me but then they told me it can vary depending on weather it needs Genuine Coolant (aparently some vehicles need this from what they said) which adds to the price.
So my question to you all is.....
Is the GQ 4.2 Diesel one that needs Genuine Nissan coolant? If not, can anyone recomend a good quality coolant. After reading all the pro's and con's about this topic, I want to make sure i do it right.
Regards Angelo
Reply By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:18
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:18
G'day Angelo,
The Nissan owners' manual (GU) states.. "When adding or replacing coolant, be sure to use an ethylene glycol anti-freeze with the proper mixture ratio"...
(30-50%, depending on ambient temp.).... No mention of "Genuine Nissan coolant"...
FWIW, I've been using "Castrol" brand (approx. 1100g/L. ethylene glycol) for many, many years, & can see absolutely no reason why I would need to consider changing to any other brand...
(current vehicle 5y/o GU 4.2TD, previously had GQ 4.2... "shopping trolley" is a Ford Falcon EL wgn.)
BTW, when you flush the engine block, Don't forget the heater core!!!!
(turn the heater control to "hot")....
Regards, Ed. C.
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Follow Up By: cokeaddict - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:44
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:44
Thanks Ed,
Just to clarify one thing you mentioned........
You said you use castrol and im assuming You mix it at 1100 g's per Litre ?
And yes i know about the heater being on the HOt position thanks mate
From what ive read, the GQ 4.2 holds around 13 Ltrs in the cooling system.....guess ill find out soon enough
Cheers Ed
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:05
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:05
Angelo,
the 1100g/L. is the amt. of the "active ingredient" (ethylene glycol) in the actual concentrate (as per the label)...
You mix this (30-50%) with water.. Nissan recommend de-mineralised or distilled water... I've always used rainwater...
Recommended rates are... For temps. down to -15degC. .. 30% ..
Down to -35degC. .. 50% ..
Just make sure that you have AT LEAST 30% concentrate-to-water...
According to Gregorys', the cooling system capacity (GQ 4.2) incl. heater and reservoir tank is 13.6L
Hope this helps...
Regards, Ed. C.
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Follow Up By: Michael - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:08
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:08
Hi Coke addict , Ed.C meant that the castrol coolant has that amount of ingredient in it.1100g/litre, not the add rate. You can buy from almost any where, a 200ml can of Castrol coolant, it is enough for a smallcar, a bigger motor requires 2 cans ,as per instructions on the can , thats of course if you dont want to buy a litre. The 200ml can is about $3.50 each and is in concentrated form of course. Hope this helps. regards Michael
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:35
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:35
Ah, confusion reigns!!
Michael, I was referring to the anti-freeze/anti-boil concentrate commonly sold in 1L, 2.5L, & 5L containers...
The product to which you refer (in the 200ml cans), which I've also used with good results in the past, is a corrosion inhibitor.. (not anti-freeze)..
Not to be mixed with similar products or anti-freeze, according to the label... (same, only different!!)
Regards, Ed. C.
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Reply By: Davoe - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 16:40
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 16:40
doubt that a 4.2 diesal requres genuine coolant I think that genuine coolant is usually specified for more whiz bang motors that run hottor and have heads and other fittings made of lightweight componants that are more prone to corrosian. When I get radiator work done I mix up my own coolant and give it to the mechanic coz if you dont they will almost certainly use less coolant and will definately use tap water to fill your radiator. This is because to fill up a radiator with 50% quality coolant and demin water is
well over $50 for a 4wd and mr and mrs average in the hyundai cant understand why it costs so much.
I would recomend using quality concentrated coolant from any of the oil companies valvoline(I use) castroletc containing around 1000grams per litre ethylene glycol
and mixing it with demin water diluting it 50% this gives the maximum boiling protection raising the bouling point of your radiator to around 130 deg c ( it also gives maximum protection for freezing but here in wa we dont care) if you dont have enough containers take the coolant and demin water into them and get them to mixit and specify you want the leftover coolant /demin mix handed back for you to use as top up.
main pionts
- fully flush old coolant including heater
- quality concentrated coolant around 1000 gpl ethylene gycol
- demin water
-50% mix (you can go as low as 33% but you are sacrificing coolant performance to save money)
- enough left over for top ups
doing the job properly is not cheap but when you are doing an extended beach run, towing heavy loads etc and your gauge starts heading north you can gun it with confidence that you radiator has maximum protection from boiling and losing its cooling properties,
stay cool davoe
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Reply By: Russell from Synforce Lubricants - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 18:23
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 18:23
hello all, coolants, there are basically 3 types on the market today ...
1. Radiator corrosion inhibitor ... this is as it says, no ethylene glycol to speak of, even if the 200 ml cans says it has some, by the time you mix at the recommended treat rate of 5%, there is not enough glycol to make a difference to boiling and freezing points. commonly know as Type B.
2. Ethylene Glycol (mono ethylene glycol to be exact). In concentrate form is does come from some manufacturers quoted as grams per litre concentrate, but under AS/NZS 2018.1, 1998 Type A (from memory), to pass standard it must have at least 95% ethylene glycol, by volume, the rest is usually a corrosion package. This type of coolant is an anti freeze-anti boil and commonly referred to as Type A concentrate.
3. this is the more recent type of coolant known as OAT (organic acid technology) and is becoming more common in new vehicles, and is usually not compatable with ethylene glycol coolants.
now from all of the above ....
Type B coolants are not anti freeze-anti boil, but straight corrosion inhibitors.
Type A coolants can be diluted as per OEM (vehicle) requirements, usually from 33% glycol to 50% glycol in demin or distilled water.
If you are not sure of what treat rate to use with Type A, mix 50% as this is completely safe.
If you live within say a few 100 k's of the coast do not use rain water (salt from the air collects on roofs) and never use tap water to mix with Type A coolants or OAT coolants, or you will be destroying some of the properties of the coolant.
Type A coolants generally are not compatable with OAT, so if your manual stipulates a particular type and you are not sure of what is in there already, do a complete flush to be sure.
does any of this help or does it serve to confuse.
regards to all, russell
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Follow Up By: Large - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 20:13
Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 20:13
And don't forget to drain
the block after the flush job!
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