Radiator coolants

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 08:53
ThreadID: 11723 Views:7281 Replies:9 FollowUps:11
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Hi guys,
Just got off the phone to Natrad radiator people. Asked a simple question...got a complicated answer. maybe someone here can answer it easier than they did.

I am going to pull my radiator out for a high pressure wash (mud) I want it cleaned out before i change coolant ratrher than do the job twice.

My question to them was...how much they charge. Its a $99.00 charge which seemed ok with me but then they told me it can vary depending on weather it needs Genuine Coolant (aparently some vehicles need this from what they said) which adds to the price.

So my question to you all is.....
Is the GQ 4.2 Diesel one that needs Genuine Nissan coolant? If not, can anyone recomend a good quality coolant. After reading all the pro's and con's about this topic, I want to make sure i do it right.
Regards Angelo
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Reply By: dingdong - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:05

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:05
HI Cokeaddict
Have just replaced Natrad core in rodao 5 years old fins starting to go big trip coming up . Also replaced water pump but didn't really need it ,block water pump thermo housing etc all original 92 model 230,000 kliks absolutly no corrosion whatsoever .Ithink this speaks for itself.Am retired diesil mech & have used it for many years . ( BP.coolant ) Hope this helps .
Cheers dingdong
Whiskey 746
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Reply By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:18

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:18
G'day Angelo,
The Nissan owners' manual (GU) states.. "When adding or replacing coolant, be sure to use an ethylene glycol anti-freeze with the proper mixture ratio"...
(30-50%, depending on ambient temp.).... No mention of "Genuine Nissan coolant"...
FWIW, I've been using "Castrol" brand (approx. 1100g/L. ethylene glycol) for many, many years, & can see absolutely no reason why I would need to consider changing to any other brand...
(current vehicle 5y/o GU 4.2TD, previously had GQ 4.2... "shopping trolley" is a Ford Falcon EL wgn.)

BTW, when you flush the engine block, Don't forget the heater core!!!!
(turn the heater control to "hot")....

Regards, Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: cokeaddict - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:44

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:44
Thanks Ed,
Just to clarify one thing you mentioned........
You said you use castrol and im assuming You mix it at 1100 g's per Litre ?
And yes i know about the heater being on the HOt position thanks mate

From what ive read, the GQ 4.2 holds around 13 Ltrs in the cooling system.....guess ill find out soon enough
Cheers Ed
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:05

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:05
Angelo,
the 1100g/L. is the amt. of the "active ingredient" (ethylene glycol) in the actual concentrate (as per the label)...
You mix this (30-50%) with water.. Nissan recommend de-mineralised or distilled water... I've always used rainwater...

Recommended rates are... For temps. down to -15degC. .. 30% ..
Down to -35degC. .. 50% ..
Just make sure that you have AT LEAST 30% concentrate-to-water...

According to Gregorys', the cooling system capacity (GQ 4.2) incl. heater and reservoir tank is 13.6L

Hope this helps...
Regards, Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Michael - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:08

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:08
Hi Coke addict , Ed.C meant that the castrol coolant has that amount of ingredient in it.1100g/litre, not the add rate. You can buy from almost any where, a 200ml can of Castrol coolant, it is enough for a smallcar, a bigger motor requires 2 cans ,as per instructions on the can , thats of course if you dont want to buy a litre. The 200ml can is about $3.50 each and is in concentrated form of course. Hope this helps. regards Michael
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:35

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:35
Ah, confusion reigns!!

Michael, I was referring to the anti-freeze/anti-boil concentrate commonly sold in 1L, 2.5L, & 5L containers...

The product to which you refer (in the 200ml cans), which I've also used with good results in the past, is a corrosion inhibitor.. (not anti-freeze)..
Not to be mixed with similar products or anti-freeze, according to the label... (same, only different!!)

Regards, Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Reply By: Paul's lot - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:43

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 10:43
No matter what you use make sure it is flushed well and truely including the heater core. Sme coolants are not compatible with each other and react to turn to a like gel which can put you right back where you started. There is an el-cheapo around called tectaloy xtra cool . the high concentrate is around $8 for 500mls and treats 10lt per 500ml bottle. I have been using it for a few years in all three of my vehicles without any problems. Like I said proper flushing before changing coolants is a must.
AnswerID: 52776

Reply By: Michael - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:12

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 11:12
Hi Angelo, if its only the external you are going to have cleaned, wouldnt it be better to pull it out yourself and buy yourself a cheap high pressure water blaster. same cost and you get to keep the water blaster. Just a thought... Michael
AnswerID: 52783

Follow Up By: cokeaddict - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 17:25

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 17:25
Hi Michael,
I have a high pressure blaster at home..also have a large compressor.
I will be high pressure cleaning the radiator to get the dry mud out. Once ive done that i will be flushing the cooling system totally. I have an adapter which bolts onto a heater hose and then u hook the garden hose to the other end ..it runs a valve which u lock the tyre inflator down onto and u can regulate the pressure from the compressor...used it on my race care for years...will get everything out of the system...just leave it there for a while and occasionally run engine to change temp and play with angles so to get every inch of crap out ( well hopefully).

Never tried it on a 4WD before. Im sure it will do the job though...I have all day so she will get a good flush. Just wasnt sure what product to use, but now, thanks to you all i know what to look for.

SO THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE GUYS.... Your all LEGENDS !!!!

Regards Angelo
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Reply By: ianmc - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 12:04

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 12:04
Check what you really need in these.
Some are ANTI_FREEZE & ANTI CORROSIVE,
Some are just anti corrosive.
The better ones lower the freezing point & increase the boiling point of your coolant.
AnswerID: 52794

Reply By: Michael - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 13:56

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 13:56
Reply to Ed C,,, Coke addict did actually mention coolant, not anti freeze,i only replied to what he asked.. Regards Michael
AnswerID: 52809

Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 14:32

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 14:32
G'day Michael,
Not a problem...... I was simply clarifying the difference between the 2 products described by yourself and I...
I will point out that Nissan (as per the owners' handbook, GU) does, in fact, specify "anti-freeze"...
Can't comment on what the GQ handbook specifies, as I haven't looked at one of those in a while...
Regards, Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Michael - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 14:50

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 14:50
Hi Ed C,
I removed the two front 5/8" hose tails from my 4.2tdi Gu the other day to fit my heat exchange, they are steel not brass and they are totally corrosion free, the nissan stuff really works.(car is only 8 months old) How much Castrol antifreeze do you mix with the total 13.5 litre system? Regards Michael
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Follow Up By: Baz (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 15:43

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 15:43
Having just read all the replies my brain hurts, einstein rules!!!.

Baz.
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 22:42

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 22:42
G'day Michael,
Just to answer your question....
I'm using a 33% mix.. Works just fine for me, w/pump, thermo housing etc. are "squeaky clean", & as I live in Q'ld, the vehicle has never seen temperatures below 0%C. in its' life, so the anti-freeze thing is not really an issue.. 50% would be the go for colder areas...I do change the coolant (complete flush) every 12mths approx...
I have a '99 GU (4.2td), & according to the owners' handbook, the cooling system capacity is 15.1L... You may wish to check your handbook to see if yours is the same (Thought I'd read somewhere that Nissan had changed the radiators on later models.. don't know if it's true)....
Regards, Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Michael - Friday, Apr 02, 2004 at 08:07

Friday, Apr 02, 2004 at 08:07
Hi Ed C, you are correct, My wife has a 99 GU 4.2t, it has a crossflow radiator, its wide as you know,and not very long vertically, My gu series 3, 4.2 tdi has the 4800 petrol radiator, very narrow and the tanks are top and bottom same as conventional radiators and hangs down about 6inches lower than the 99 GU. It has a cross member in front of it to protect it but if you got it caught on a rock shelf, the bottom radiator hose and and the tube on the radiator could be bent upwards, and possibly snapped off. The series 3 radiator is supposed to be 30% larger area that the earlier 4.2d s. Apparently the 3 litre diesel radiator is larger again, commonsense would say to use the largest radiator for all, but i suppose its the bean counters at work.. you would think that making one radiator and one type of mounts would be cheaper in the long run. Thanks for the info.. Best rergards Michael
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Reply By: dingdong - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 16:13

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 16:13
Hi Guys
Have you guys considered what is commonly refered to as electrolasys but is actually implosian eating away your wet liners or parent metal cylinders in diesils .
Cheers dingdong .
Whiskey 746
AnswerID: 52827

Reply By: Davoe - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 16:40

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 16:40
doubt that a 4.2 diesal requres genuine coolant I think that genuine coolant is usually specified for more whiz bang motors that run hottor and have heads and other fittings made of lightweight componants that are more prone to corrosian. When I get radiator work done I mix up my own coolant and give it to the mechanic coz if you dont they will almost certainly use less coolant and will definately use tap water to fill your radiator. This is because to fill up a radiator with 50% quality coolant and demin water is well over $50 for a 4wd and mr and mrs average in the hyundai cant understand why it costs so much.
I would recomend using quality concentrated coolant from any of the oil companies valvoline(I use) castroletc containing around 1000grams per litre ethylene glycol
and mixing it with demin water diluting it 50% this gives the maximum boiling protection raising the bouling point of your radiator to around 130 deg c ( it also gives maximum protection for freezing but here in wa we dont care) if you dont have enough containers take the coolant and demin water into them and get them to mixit and specify you want the leftover coolant /demin mix handed back for you to use as top up.
main pionts
- fully flush old coolant including heater
- quality concentrated coolant around 1000 gpl ethylene gycol
- demin water
-50% mix (you can go as low as 33% but you are sacrificing coolant performance to save money)
- enough left over for top ups
doing the job properly is not cheap but when you are doing an extended beach run, towing heavy loads etc and your gauge starts heading north you can gun it with confidence that you radiator has maximum protection from boiling and losing its cooling properties,
stay cool davoe
AnswerID: 52829

Reply By: Russell from Synforce Lubricants - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 18:23

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 18:23
hello all, coolants, there are basically 3 types on the market today ...
1. Radiator corrosion inhibitor ... this is as it says, no ethylene glycol to speak of, even if the 200 ml cans says it has some, by the time you mix at the recommended treat rate of 5%, there is not enough glycol to make a difference to boiling and freezing points. commonly know as Type B.
2. Ethylene Glycol (mono ethylene glycol to be exact). In concentrate form is does come from some manufacturers quoted as grams per litre concentrate, but under AS/NZS 2018.1, 1998 Type A (from memory), to pass standard it must have at least 95% ethylene glycol, by volume, the rest is usually a corrosion package. This type of coolant is an anti freeze-anti boil and commonly referred to as Type A concentrate.
3. this is the more recent type of coolant known as OAT (organic acid technology) and is becoming more common in new vehicles, and is usually not compatable with ethylene glycol coolants.
now from all of the above ....
Type B coolants are not anti freeze-anti boil, but straight corrosion inhibitors.
Type A coolants can be diluted as per OEM (vehicle) requirements, usually from 33% glycol to 50% glycol in demin or distilled water.
If you are not sure of what treat rate to use with Type A, mix 50% as this is completely safe.
If you live within say a few 100 k's of the coast do not use rain water (salt from the air collects on roofs) and never use tap water to mix with Type A coolants or OAT coolants, or you will be destroying some of the properties of the coolant.
Type A coolants generally are not compatable with OAT, so if your manual stipulates a particular type and you are not sure of what is in there already, do a complete flush to be sure.
does any of this help or does it serve to confuse.
regards to all, russell
AnswerID: 52854

Follow Up By: Large - Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 20:13

Thursday, Apr 01, 2004 at 20:13
And don't forget to drain the block after the flush job!
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