Radiator coolants

HI Cokeaddict
Have just replaced Natrad core in rodao 5 years old fins starting to go big trip coming up . Also replaced water pump but didn't really need it ,block water pump thermo housing etc all original 92 model 230,000 kliks absolutly no corrosion whatsoever .Ithink this speaks for itself.Am retired diesil mech & have used it for many years . ( BP.coolant ) Hope this helps .
Cheers dingdong
Whiskey 746

G'day Angelo,
The Nissan owners' manual (GU) states.. "When adding or replacing coolant, be sure to use an ethylene glycol anti-freeze with the proper mixture ratio"...
(30-50%, depending on ambient temp.).... No mention of "Genuine Nissan coolant"...
FWIW, I've been using "Castrol" brand (approx. 1100g/L. ethylene glycol) for many, many years, & can see absolutely no reason why I would need to consider changing to any other brand...
(current vehicle 5y/o GU 4.2TD, previously had GQ 4.2... "shopping trolley" is a Ford Falcon EL wgn.)

BTW, when you flush the engine block, Don't forget the heater core!!!!
(turn the heater control to "hot")....

Regards, Ed. C.

No matter what you use make sure it is flushed well and truely including the heater core. Sme coolants are not compatible with each other and react to turn to a like gel which can put you right back where you started. There is an el-cheapo around called tectaloy xtra cool . the high concentrate is around $8 for 500mls and treats 10lt per 500ml bottle. I have been using it for a few years in all three of my vehicles without any problems. Like I said proper flushing before changing coolants is a must.

Hi Angelo, if its only the external you are going to have cleaned, wouldnt it be better to pull it out yourself and buy yourself a cheap high pressure water blaster. same cost and you get to keep the water blaster. Just a thought... Michael

Check what you really need in these.
Some are ANTI_FREEZE & ANTI CORROSIVE,
Some are just anti corrosive.
The better ones lower the freezing point & increase the boiling point of your coolant.

Reply to Ed C,,, Coke addict did actually mention coolant, not anti freeze,i only replied to what he asked.. Regards Michael

Hi Guys
Have you guys considered what is commonly refered to as electrolasys but is actually implosian eating away your wet liners or parent metal cylinders in diesils .
Cheers dingdong .
Whiskey 746

doubt that a 4.2 diesal requres genuine coolant I think that genuine coolant is usually specified for more whiz bang motors that run hottor and have heads and other fittings made of lightweight componants that are more prone to corrosian. When I get radiator work done I mix up my own coolant and give it to the mechanic coz if you dont they will almost certainly use less coolant and will definately use tap water to fill your radiator. This is because to fill up a radiator with 50% quality coolant and demin water is well over $50 for a 4wd and mr and mrs average in the hyundai cant understand why it costs so much.
I would recomend using quality concentrated coolant from any of the oil companies valvoline(I use) castroletc containing around 1000grams per litre ethylene glycol
and mixing it with demin water diluting it 50% this gives the maximum boiling protection raising the bouling point of your radiator to around 130 deg c ( it also gives maximum protection for freezing but here in wa we dont care) if you dont have enough containers take the coolant and demin water into them and get them to mixit and specify you want the leftover coolant /demin mix handed back for you to use as top up.
main pionts
- fully flush old coolant including heater
- quality concentrated coolant around 1000 gpl ethylene gycol
- demin water
-50% mix (you can go as low as 33% but you are sacrificing coolant performance to save money)
- enough left over for top ups
doing the job properly is not cheap but when you are doing an extended beach run, towing heavy loads etc and your gauge starts heading north you can gun it with confidence that you radiator has maximum protection from boiling and losing its cooling properties,
stay cool davoe

hello all, coolants, there are basically 3 types on the market today ...
1. Radiator corrosion inhibitor ... this is as it says, no ethylene glycol to speak of, even if the 200 ml cans says it has some, by the time you mix at the recommended treat rate of 5%, there is not enough glycol to make a difference to boiling and freezing points. commonly know as Type B.
2. Ethylene Glycol (mono ethylene glycol to be exact). In concentrate form is does come from some manufacturers quoted as grams per litre concentrate, but under AS/NZS 2018.1, 1998 Type A (from memory), to pass standard it must have at least 95% ethylene glycol, by volume, the rest is usually a corrosion package. This type of coolant is an anti freeze-anti boil and commonly referred to as Type A concentrate.
3. this is the more recent type of coolant known as OAT (organic acid technology) and is becoming more common in new vehicles, and is usually not compatable with ethylene glycol coolants.
now from all of the above ....
Type B coolants are not anti freeze-anti boil, but straight corrosion inhibitors.
Type A coolants can be diluted as per OEM (vehicle) requirements, usually from 33% glycol to 50% glycol in demin or distilled water.
If you are not sure of what treat rate to use with Type A, mix 50% as this is completely safe.
If you live within say a few 100 k's of the coast do not use rain water (salt from the air collects on roofs) and never use tap water to mix with Type A coolants or OAT coolants, or you will be destroying some of the properties of the coolant.
Type A coolants generally are not compatable with OAT, so if your manual stipulates a particular type and you are not sure of what is in there already, do a complete flush to be sure.
does any of this help or does it serve to confuse.
regards to all, russell