How to remove fan clutch & fan from 89 Nissan Navara

Submitted: Tuesday, Apr 06, 2004 at 20:36
ThreadID: 11883 Views:7635 Replies:5 FollowUps:4
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Hi,
Anyone know how to remove the fan and fan clutch from a 89 Nissan Navara? My fan is dead (radial cracks & almost stuck fan clutch) and needs to be changed. I can see four bolts which hold the fan to the clutch, but how is the clutch held to the pulley? I cannot see how they do it from looking in past the shroud.

Paul
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Reply By: Member - Toonfish - Tuesday, Apr 06, 2004 at 23:48

Tuesday, Apr 06, 2004 at 23:48
got a manual?

there is one for this model

maybe the library has it , my dealer will let me look at a book briefly .

what motor is it?

i might compare to mine
cheers
AnswerID: 53487

Follow Up By: paulp - Monday, Apr 12, 2004 at 21:18

Monday, Apr 12, 2004 at 21:18
Motor is D27 (2.7 Litre Diesel)
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FollowupID: 315620

Follow Up By: paulp - Monday, Apr 12, 2004 at 21:19

Monday, Apr 12, 2004 at 21:19
ps. there isn't a manual for the diesel version, only the petrol one - unless you go for the Nissan workshop manual which is serious $$$
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FollowupID: 315621

Reply By: hoyks - Wednesday, Apr 07, 2004 at 09:36

Wednesday, Apr 07, 2004 at 09:36
I have a Terrano and the clutch is held onto the pulley by 4 bolts that come in from the pulley side. I had to remove the shroud to get the fan and clutch out as a unit as there was no access to the bolts holding the fan to the clutch.

Maybe a place to start anyway.
AnswerID: 53509

Reply By: Member - Oskar(Bris) - Friday, Apr 09, 2004 at 16:43

Friday, Apr 09, 2004 at 16:43
Paul
I have just repacked the fan hub with fresh silicone oil on my 92 Terrano and the difference in engine temp is amazing.
The fan hub is a non-removable component of the water-pump assembly.
The complete water pump/fan assembly must be removed to access the fan hub.
That means new water pump gaskets and sil.oil if you are just going to service the fan clutch or a complete new pump to fan assembly if you need to replace the fan hub.
The fan hub is pressed onto the shaft and then peined to make it "non-removable" (unless you have specific skills and equipment to do an alternative repair).
There is an internal knurl in the hub centre that strips if you try to do a "bodgy" job without the right gear and knowledge.
Maybe a second hand one is the go as new ones can be a bit dear.
Repco have a non-genuine replacement that is a lot cheaper.
Cheers
Oskar
AnswerID: 53782

Reply By: Member - Oskar(Bris) - Friday, Apr 16, 2004 at 09:29

Friday, Apr 16, 2004 at 09:29
Paul
If it's not too late ... I have a manual for the td27 engine.
If I can help let me know.
Cheers
Oskar
AnswerID: 54486

Follow Up By: paulp - Friday, Apr 16, 2004 at 18:30

Friday, Apr 16, 2004 at 18:30
Hi Oskar,
That would be great. I am aiming to remove the fan clutch and fan intact so I can keep them as spares without ruining anything so I can put them back on in a pinch.

If you can check the manual and let me know how to do it I'd certainly appreciate it.

I expect I'm going to have to remove the water pump. Sigh.

Paul
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FollowupID: 316210

Reply By: Member - Oskar(Bris) - Thursday, Apr 22, 2004 at 08:38

Thursday, Apr 22, 2004 at 08:38
If you send me your email address I can email you some info.
Alternately you can just follow these instructions
1. Remove bash-plate
2. Remove top and bottom radiator hoses to drain the radiator (don't do it on the grass as it acts just like round-up).
3. Loosen power steering and alternator mounts and remove belts. (note which one goes where).
4. Remove bottom radiator 1/2 shroud. (if one is fitted)
5. Undo the 6 bolts holding the water-pump onto the front of the engine block. (some are 14mm and some 12mm I think)
6. At this point you may need to remove the thermostat housing at the front top of the engine.
7. Carefully lift out the whole water-pump fan assembly trying not to scrape the radiator too much. (you may need to pry it loose if the gasket is bonded tightly)
8. With a 10mm spanner remove the fan bolts at the front of the assembly if you need to but don't remove the 4 10mm hub bolts at the rear of the hub unless you are going to repack the hub itself.
9. Installation is basically the reverse but use new gaskets and sealant. (I just used "cornflakes packet" last time because I left my proper gasket paper at home and I did it at work.
You can't get a torque wrench in to torque the bolts to the suggested tension so "2 clicks of the wrist" is what I use in these situations.
It's not really that technical but a bit of mechanical know-how is useful.
Happy mechanic'ing
Oskar

AnswerID: 55455

Follow Up By: paulp - Thursday, Apr 22, 2004 at 19:59

Thursday, Apr 22, 2004 at 19:59
paulp AT steamengine com au

Please put something something really obvious in the subject because I get a lot of spam...

Thanks
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FollowupID: 317421

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