removing pushrods, remove valve train complete or undo adjusters?

Submitted: Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 12:47
ThreadID: 130455 Views:1942 Replies:2 FollowUps:7
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my manual says to remove valve-train mounts bolts but im reluctant to disturb those bolts & brain-faded from my manual...

will the pushrods come out by loosening off the lash adjusters or is it better to remove the rocker mounts to preserve the valve adjustment?

we are replacing the very rear timing gear case seal
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Reply By: mike39 - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 13:48

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 13:48
You would only need to remove the rocker assembly if you are removing the head.
You can slacken the adjusters off to allow removal of the pushrods.

Are you going to remove the camshaft? I seem to recall it can be left in situ after all the timing gears, camshaft thrust have been removed then the rear case can be unbolted.

This would make the job so much easier.
AnswerID: 590850

Reply By: LandCoaster - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 14:16

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 14:16
many thanks and your right Mike, cam doesnt have to come out for the oil pump casng but there doesnt seem any way to get a puller on the cam cog

in the pic below behind that cog bolt and washer there are no holes for a two leg extractor. A triple leg extractor wont fit in the cog jelly holes and there isnt enough room to get a collar around the rim or back. A two leg extractor with hooks may work but im uncomfortable with that incase the hooks slips on the spokes. Im not comfortable with reversing the hooks on a triple leg and pulling it out gripped from inside the outer rim. The manual shows it being bench pressed out. Im not sure if that cog will cope with two much pressure.

AnswerID: 590853

Follow Up By: Ross M - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 15:37

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 15:37
You won't know if will come off easily OR NOT unless you remove the centre bolt.
It may be more easily done than you think.

Just a question.
It is the timing cover rear GASKET you are replacing I presume, I can't remember a seal there.
FollowupID: 858929

Follow Up By: LandCoaster - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 16:52

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 16:52
we've had the centerbolt & washer off, they are just resting there.... tried pulling and a gentle lever, didnt come off easy like the idlers do....there is no thread in the backing plate...we truely dont want to pull it out.....
Yep, i meant gasket
FollowupID: 858934

Follow Up By: Ross M - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 20:24

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 20:24
By the look of the gaps in the face you could easily use a rocker type pinch bar to ease the cam gear off the camshaft. Just make sure the bar uses the heads of the bolts.
Can't see it being difficult.
FollowupID: 858947

Follow Up By: LandCoaster - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 21:33

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 21:33
thank-you for mentioning this Ross... I had considered this but it sounded oh-so rough, criminal and simple that it surly couldnt work. Thinkjng about it a second time, the cam shaft is very thinck but the centre hub of the cog looks very thin in proportion, almost like a rim, ... ill give it a go tomoroow!

i also found the proper type of remover for it

FollowupID: 858950

Follow Up By: Ron N - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 21:35

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 21:35
Landcoaster - IMO, you will have to remove the camshaft completely to remove the gear - by placing it in a bench press, as the manual shows.

I have never had any success removing any camshaft gear with the camshaft still installed - they are a reasonably tight fit on the shaft.
You stand to damage the camshaft thrust washer by using a rolling-head pry bar.

The only camshaft gear I have ever removed in-situ, are the old Holden/GM fibre gears.
Smash the fibre gear off, and hammer and chisel the steel collar on the inside of the gear, until it loosens and falls off.
You can't do that in this case!

Cheers, Ron.
FollowupID: 858951

Follow Up By: Ron N - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 21:38

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 21:38
O.K. - you get the gear off using the puller shown - but how do you get it back on, without punching the camshaft through the far end of the block? Heat the gear up? You still have to hold the camshaft securely, somehow.
FollowupID: 858953

Follow Up By: LandCoaster - Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 22:13

Tuesday, Sep 29, 2015 at 22:13
thanks for the thrust washer reminder Ron.

If i did get it off i was figuring it must screw in with some beefy washers because (big breath) in my manual it shows both methods sub-listing the oil pump removal which has different steps to the oil-pump removal in the general engine disassembly...

at any rate ive been working in both directions, removal of cog or cam.

I have also done another intersting thing in posting to a maths forum for a formula one how many turns until assembly timing marks line up.
I've accepted the marks, post assembly, hunt, but if it is a low enough number, like 76, it might be worth the exercise to proof against a one tooth timing advance.
On our 27 rev the crank marks lined up one tooth off and other cogs 2 teeth off. It has an aftermarket turbo, advancing stuff one tooth can overcome wear and timing issues, who knows whats been done in the last 20yrs. I just would have liked the reassurance of assembly timing marks ling up

FollowupID: 858957

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