Troopy clutch

Submitted: Tuesday, Mar 08, 2016 at 20:47
ThreadID: 131786 Views:4224 Replies:8 FollowUps:2
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I have a 2001 LandCruiser troopy doing 310000km and so far have not had any signs of clutch slippage or other problems.I have had this vehicle from new and it has been around Aus and Tasmania as well of many hunting trips up north towing a camper trailer.My question is should I replace the clutch before going on my next trip(July) as most of the time I am in remote places only own or should Iwaittillthere are signs of clutch wear.Also approx what is the cost of replacing with a heavy duty clutch?
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Reply By: Athol W1 - Tuesday, Mar 08, 2016 at 20:59

Tuesday, Mar 08, 2016 at 20:59
The Rambler.
It all depends on how confident that you are going into remote places with a vehicle where the clutch could be close to failure, as at 310K its life would be getting towards the end. It could be good insurance to have it replaced with a good quality unit, and make sure that the flywheel is machined or replaced at the same time.

Unfortunately there is no reliable way to tell how much life remains in a clutch without removing it from the vehicle, and once removed it would not be advisable to refit the old unit regardless of how good it appears to be.

AnswerID: 597169

Reply By: Ron N - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 00:00

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 00:00
Rambler - You can get a good idea of the amount of life left in a clutch by pressing on the clutch pedal slowly whilst driving, and see how far the pedal travels downwards before the clutch starts to slip.

If the pedal only moves a short distance after clutch disengaging pressure is felt, before the clutch starts to slip, then there's little life left in the clutch.

If the clutch pedal travels 30-40mm before the clutch disengages, then there's some life left in the clutch.

If you've got 310,000kms out of a clutch plate, then you've done very well - you've got your moneys worth! - and someone elses as well!!

Clutch costs vary according to whether you want genuine or non-genuine, or whether you choose to fit a standard clutch or a heavy duty one.
New clutch assemblies come as a pack with a new pressure plate, a new clutch plate and a new clutch release bearing.

At one time, clutches were reconditioned and you could get a reconditioned pressure plate.
Clutch reconditioning has gone the way of the Dodo and the low cost base of Asian manufacturers, means new clutches are the only thing available today.

I would expect to pay around $400-450 for a clutch kit and probably twice that in labour to fit it and machine the flywheel face.
Estimated time to R&R clutch is 6 hrs 45 mins
There's a new one on Gumtree (in North Dandalup, W.A.) for $280.

Cheers, Ron.
AnswerID: 597171

Follow Up By: pop2jocem - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 11:40

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 11:40
What Ron said. If still not sure, ask yourself the question, would you rather change out or have changed out, the clutch before you go remote, with the confidence that at least your clutch is unlikely the cause of grief. Or possibly incur the costs of a tow out of wherever and have to cough up the cost of replacement in a more "remote" location????

As said, you have already had your moneys worth out of the original. If you don't tow much more than a camper trailer, or maybe nothing at all, I would fit another genuine Toyota clutch unless you plan on getting rid of the vehicle in the not too distant future.

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Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 00:15

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 00:15
Just checked 4WD1 site, Rambler, and they have clutch kit for 1HZ @ $450 or so. Turbo model is at a premium, $770.


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AnswerID: 597172

Reply By: sweetwill - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 08:33

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 08:33
I have replaced the original clutch in my new "old" 80 serise it had just over 370,000 on the clock and as you say no sign of wear but when it was taken out it was stuffed
AnswerID: 597175

Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 09:55

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 09:55
I recently sold my 1994 1hz troopy with 390k on it and the original clutch going well. It does depend a lot on driving style and load how long the clutch lasts.

Be careful going for a cheap kit. You got a good run out of the original, make sure any replacement is good quality. I suggest asking on LCOOL and you will quickly get good info. The clutch is a fundamental link in the drivetrain and to use a cheap kit that is not proven is not wise. You are considering a change on the basis of reliability so go with one of the best.
AnswerID: 597176

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 16:58

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 16:58
My Patrol has 405,000ks on it, original clutch, its fine also.. That is the question, when! Funny thing is that a new clutch can fail prematurely also. Michael
Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

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AnswerID: 597187

Reply By: Member - mark D18 - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 17:41

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 17:41

I just installed a new clutch in my Troopie at 290000km ( wasn't far from worn out )
I installed a genuine Toyota clutch , I figure I got good value out of the old one .
My mate put in a heavy duty unit in his Troopie and it is to heavy for every day use , for my liking anyhow.

AnswerID: 597190

Reply By: The Rambler( W.A.) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 17:48

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2016 at 17:48
Thanks for all the helpfull replies which have convinced me to replace clutch before my next trip in July as I know where the vehicle will be going and would not like to bestuckthere on my own.I have a couple good contacts which can save me quite a bit on a fitted genuine Toyota clutch.
AnswerID: 597191

Follow Up By: Life Member - Terry 80FTE - Thursday, Mar 10, 2016 at 22:46

Thursday, Mar 10, 2016 at 22:46
You don't say what engine plant is in the troopy, but if it's a 1HZzzz the clutch will have done enough work.
The "4Terrain" clutch gives good bite and feel,
Best to do Rear main seal, G/box input seal, G/box output seal and Transfer input seal whilst you have it apart. (All genuine Tojo of course)
Lube seals with a bit of Vaseline.
Also remove the rear main seal holder to clean and reseal with a good RTV Sealant,
and clean up the crank seal running surface with some 800-1200 grit wet and dry paper with a cross hatch finish. (All seal running surfaces for that matter)
We usually replace the shift lever seat and end bush at about that "K" as well.
Check the clutch fork pivot seat and ball for wear, lube with moly grease as well.

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