w/d hitch on van

Submitted: Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 11:42
ThreadID: 131863 Views:3033 Replies:5 FollowUps:6
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Hi Just brought a new ford ranger . Trouble i got is the tow bar reciever is not as deep as my old patrol so pin hole dont line up. Is it ok to cut the bar back to the smaller size to suit. Or do i need to buy a different bar

Thanks Peter
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Reply By: 9900Eagle - Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 13:02

Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 13:02
Peter, that is what I did with my Hayman reese hitch into a Kaymar. From memory I cut about 20mm of the end. Did a lot of towing with no ill effects.

I used a 1mm thick cut off blade in a 125mm angle grinder and cut in from all sides until it was pared off.
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Follow Up By: Member - Rod N (QLD) - Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 14:37

Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 14:37
I did that too. Still working ok.
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Reply By: Member - peter h (SA) - Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 15:04

Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 15:04
Thank you for you answers I was a bit worried as the patrol had 120mm before pin in the tongue receiver i will only now have 50mm. I guess they wouldnt put the tow bar on car and rate them if not safe. The hitch is solid steel so still strong where the normal tongue is tube

Peter
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Follow Up By: 9900Eagle - Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 16:02

Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 16:02
I just have to get this straight. Are you saying you will only have a total of 50mm In the receiver or 50mm from the pin to the back of the receiver.

If it is a px ranger factory bar that would be about right and it would also only have about 80mm all up in the receiver.
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Reply By: Batt's - Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 22:30

Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 22:30
Shouldn't need a WDH if you tow vehicle and vans suspension is setup correctly and the load is distributed correctly as well.
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Follow Up By: TomH - Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 22:33

Friday, Mar 18, 2016 at 22:33
In a perfect world maybe
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Reply By: gbc - Saturday, Mar 19, 2016 at 06:10

Saturday, Mar 19, 2016 at 06:10
If you read your manual, ford specifically state to not use weight distribution hitches on the ranger.
Yes, I cut the backs off my towbars to suit my px setup. Best thing is no more rusted in hitches up the beach anymore.
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Reply By: Blown4by - Saturday, Mar 19, 2016 at 13:16

Saturday, Mar 19, 2016 at 13:16
Technically speaking the WDH ball mount should be supplied to suit the particular hitch for the particular Make, Model & Year of the tug to suit its respective receiver depth. Before you go carving off whatever amount you need to remove to make it fit, and effectively changing the engineering design characteristics, I would make call to Hayman-Reece, the inventors of the WDH. Having said that, if your modified Patrol ball mount square section is the same dimensions fore and aft of the pin bore of the 'off the shelf' unit to suit the tow hitch fitted to your vehicle, then you shouldn't have a problem. Re the WDH not being recommended by Ford I cannot comment on that and can only surmise that it is to do with a chassis strength issue. As regards the comment that you shouldn't need a WDH, these vehicles can tow up to 3500kg and ball weights vary markedly due to caravan engineering design and the weight distribution of its payload. If the tug was loaded to its maximum GVM and you add further weight through the tow coupling when you traverse dips, spoon drains, etc. a WDH will assist greatly by adding weight to the tug steer axle and moving some weight from the rear axle to the front axle on the van assuming it has a tandem axle set up. This will improve the towing fidelity of the combination thus improving safety and will in all likelihood improve fuel consumption as well.
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Sunday, Mar 20, 2016 at 01:45

Sunday, Mar 20, 2016 at 01:45
And that's where the problem is manufactures pushing the limits of towing capacities especially on dual cabs because they have become so popular and so many inexperienced people these days just starting out with their first van and being told that towing up to the max with a light tow vehicle is fine. Imagine what could happen if the van's brakes fail towing 3.5t. If you kept the weight closer to the weight of the tow vehicle it would a lot safer and wouldn't need these band aid devices that lots of people these days believe are necessary. Personally I wouldn't tow near the capacity and stay well within the towball limit of a vehicle for safety reasons mine and other road users but lots of people don't because if something goes wrong they will just try and forward the blame. Keep the towball weight down and let the van support most of it's own weight then the arse of the vehicle won't drag on the ground and you won't need to cover it up with a band aid.
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Follow Up By: Blown4by - Sunday, Mar 20, 2016 at 12:33

Sunday, Mar 20, 2016 at 12:33
Good points you raise but you do need a certain amount of downwards weight on the tow coupling for towing stability. If the caravan brakes were to fail I would rather have the tug loaded to its GVM than empty which you often see. Being loaded improves road grip when braking (and steering) and also places the tug load sensing brake distribution valve located above the rear axle on the tug in a position that increases the ratio of rear axle/front axle braking force distribution. This provides more even braking across the four wheels of the tug thus reducing the possibility of rear brake lock up (or early activation of the ABS on the rear axle)
Also on the subject of loading masses, there has been some posts about tyre shredding, delaminating, separation and tread throwing. It needs to be understood that passenger car tyres are not rated to carry their full rated load 100% of the time. In a nutshell, they do not have a 100% duty cycle. For this reason passenger car tyres when used on trailers/caravans, etc. must have a load rating 10% higher than the trailer GTM. The better option is to fit light truck (LT or C) rated tyres to trailers and for that matter to the tug too if a 4WD (or 2WD double-cab or Ute variant)
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Monday, Mar 21, 2016 at 00:01

Monday, Mar 21, 2016 at 00:01
Yes you do still need a reasonable amount of ball weight or you will create other problems it's a matter of finding the happy medium for your vehicle which most people don't care for and just load her up dragging their tail around.

Personally I would go the other way and not rely on the load in my vehicle to try and counteract any problems that may arise from brake failure you should be able to tow comfortably and safely loaded or empty. I would have a tow vehicle to suit I would prefer to say tow a van that is no more than 500 kg heavier than my vehicle and not 1,500 kg. My last van was a pop top and around 1,000 kg lighter than my 4WD which was perfect for towing I couldn't imagine what it's like to be pushed around the country by a 3,500 kg van.
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