Suspension and Wiring for Camper Trailers

Grog,
Try this for Shockies...

http://www.4x4review.com/feature/shock-genius.asp

John

Grog,
Try this for Shockies...

http://www.4x4review.com/feature/shock-genius.asp

John

Did you get an annex with it ?

If so, did you take that into account when you lifted it ?

www.allabout12volt.com.au try these guys for 12v wiring.

Baz.

watching with keen eyes as I just bought one of the same last weekend.

Grog, if the interior lights of your camper operate when your vehicle trailer plug is attached to your camper, simply add a female trailer connector in reach of the male socket on the camper, locate the 2 corresponding pins push the male into the female, [no further comments required on that one] that activate the lighs and then run those 2 wires from the back of the female socket up to an auxillary battery [ i use a waeco urban power pack] - and + and bingo, you have completed the power circuit and have your 12v lighting, it might pay to look at changing the globe and, or socket to the latest type which draw very litte current, hope this makes sense, regards, Adrian.

G`day Grog,
Had a bloke with a similar unit to yours come into the workshop.They were going around Australia for a year.After a lot of discussion we ended up fabricating a new chassis to which we fitted an Alko axle. To the new chassis we fitted jerrycan holders ,storage box,battery box & to the rear of the chassis fitted dual spare wheel carrier & a bike carrier.Just fitted the Dove body to the chassis & away they went with the speed of a thousand startled gazelles.When fitting a new suspension make sure you select one that will work well with the weight that you will be carrying.

Keep wandering

Regards Bob & Deb

Grog
A wiring diagram for a caravan ! Like my chances of wining tatts .
12v runs from your 7 pin plug along the A frame drivers side runs along to the end then prceeds into the wall cavity to gain access you have to remove the external cladding big expence if it has been glued.
Easiest way from the A frame through the floor and run your wires in the back of the cupboards make sure you keep them away from the cables for your roof and clip them or run in small conduct if theres a chance of getting damaged .The auxiliary wire is the usual one that needs upgrading should be the blue one on pin 5 up it to 6mm will help run your fridge and lights from the car dont forget to upgrade your car as well.If you plan charging your 2nd battery from the car you will need something bigger or look at a solar pannel .

good luck
andyg

G`day Grog,
Yes the Alko axle is the type that has two three pointed tubes with the high density rubber between them. We recomend and fit this type as we regard the independent action of the stub axles & the clear profile under the trailer among the best available.When operating in rough going the trailer/caravan is much easier on the towing vechile,& the unit appears to waddle over the potholes as opposed to the convential axle/spring setups way of bouncing/jolting through.
We built a whole new chassis as it was the best way we could see to fit all the extras , such as storage box,battery box,jerrycan holders& two large gas bottles in the front of chassis. The profile of these assemblies mirrored that of the chassis "A" frame, so it acts as a windbuster & stone deflector.To attach the caravan to the tow vechile only use a Treg type coupling.To fit the twin wheel carrier & bike carrier (holds 4 bikes} at the rear, plus also the water tank which was mounted immediatley behind the axle assembly it was easier/better to build a new chassis.Make sure that the wheel size is the same as your car, this gives more spares plus when you are scooting over the tops of the corrugations both vechiles are doing it easier.Grog this probably a long winded way of saying that the standard subframes of many caravans are built to a price only.When we were up at William Creek there was this bloke camped at the pub/garage in his beaut new camper, he didn`t need a step to get into it as the unit was sitting on the ground, the whole axle assembly,[springs ,wheels &axle] was still out on the Oodnadata Track.What I`m saying is build the thing right the first time & you will be better able to enjoy this great land of ours

G`day Grog;
The springs that you suggest,[with the roll over ends on the second leaf[,would be a lot better than the standard spring arrangement.We are envious of your up coming trip,hope it is a good one.

Keep wandering
Regards Bob&Deb

Mate of mine has done the same sort of thing with his Jayco. Don't know if yours is the same or not but his had a chipboard/particleboard floor. It was probably sealed enough for spray from a wet bitumen road but was a worry for anything else so he sealed it with polyurethane. It hasn't been tested yet.

Thanks all for your input. The lift and suspension is now in hand, and I have got my hands on Motorhome Electrics by Collyn Rivers which has most of what I need to know about rewiring. Of course any other advice is welcome, but save the "What the hell would you want to put an old Jayco so high in the air for!!!!" I dunno! Maybe I'll drop it a bit!

Grant