Overheating

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 15:12
ThreadID: 132054 Views:1806 Replies:5 FollowUps:4
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I have a 100 series diesel Landcruiser, 2000 model, indirect injection with an aftermarket turbo. The car runs great but whilst towing it overheats badly. I have changed the radiator, thermostat, radiator cap and put oil in the viscous coupling to no avail. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, did you manage to solve it?
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Reply By: Member - Len & Rhoda - Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 15:46

Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 15:46
Hi Colin

I have come across this issue before, it would pay to get a run on a dyno and check the fuel air ratio and your exhaust temp. The ones I have come across in the past were all over fueling. What are you towing and what speed are you trying to do, what is the ambient temp.
AnswerID: 598307

Reply By: Mudripper - Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 16:39

Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 16:39
Colin,

As Len said, take the vehicle to a diesel specialist. They will need to check pump timing and Air Fuel Ratios, etc. There is a tendency to advance the timing and wind up the fuel with aftermarket turbo set ups, and the 1HZ doesn't like either. 1HZ's have very thin piston crowns (compared to factory turbo engines) and they don't take much to crack. This is why I am against turboing engines that weren't designed for them. Sorry if that sounds harsh, I know I'm going to cop it for that comment!

Don't want you ending up like this: 1HZ failure

Is there excessive black smoke coming out of the tail pipe under acceleration? Also what are you towing?

Do you have a turbo gauge and EGT gauge fitted? If so, what readings do you get?

Cheers,

Tim
AnswerID: 598313

Reply By: TomH - Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 16:48

Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 16:48
Get on LCOOL and all the answers will be on there Join its free and you will read for a week
AnswerID: 598314

Reply By: Whirlwinder - Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 17:52

Thursday, Apr 07, 2016 at 17:52
Colin,
The only time my 80 series before and after I fitted a turbo was when the viscous coupling had failed. Fitted a new one and it lasted 200K kms.
I also tried refilling it with grease but only replacement fixed the problem.
AnswerID: 598318

Reply By: scandal - Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 09:00

Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 09:00
I have the same but a 2005 model, mine overheats when pushed hard such as towing or driving on soft sand, other replys have given some direction already in finding faults but ultimately the problem is that the 1HZ block cannot dissipate the heat it generates, my temp gauge never moved pre turbo, held it flat for hours on end (thats why it got turboed, lol) never even moved a millimeter, climbing long pulls brings it undone, such as Cunninghams gap, Toowoomba range where there is 10% incline for kilometers and an 80 k speed limit will make it overheat when towing the 1.4 ton camper, no problems when not towing, as soon as i get to the top the guage goes back to normal position with in 1 minute, that tells me that the cooling system is working
AnswerID: 598438

Follow Up By: TomH - Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 09:16

Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 09:16
Toyota temp gauges are designed NOT to move till the very last second before something goes bang,
Supposedly so as not to alarm drivers that it is getting hot.
The best thing you can do is put an Enginesaver unit in and a sensor in the top radiator hose. Gives realtime temp readings.
My 2005 TDI rarely got hot towing 3T except on long hills and then the EGT got too hot before the engine did.
Sounds like your radiator needs a clean if it getting hot with only a camper on the back
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Follow Up By: scandal - Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 10:36

Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 10:36
I know about the Toyota gauge and the "panic factor", it stays at the same spot form about 80/85 degrees, thru to 98/100, then climbs quickly, as soon as my gauge moves I know the cooling system is under stress, another tell tale sign that motor is running hot is that the aircon drops out once the block gets excessive heat, thats when you are really pushing it
Is yours the 1HDTFE?, factory TD's are built to handle heat dissipation, 1HZ's where not.
My radiator is factory but is aging and will be upgraded soon,However, I'm not expecting significant changes in how the motor handles heat.
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FollowupID: 867612

Follow Up By: TomH - Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 12:40

Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 12:40
A friend of mine had a 1HZ and said it was slower than a wet week beyond the Black Stump His van was a bit over 2T and he collected rocks so god knows what it really weighed. He finally got sick of bicycles passing him on hills and sold it
ROFL
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FollowupID: 867618

Follow Up By: scandal - Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 12:54

Sunday, Apr 10, 2016 at 12:54
That sounds about right, I overtook a whole line of traffic once and I was stoked, it was a grader, a roller, a tractor towing a broom trailer, and a parked tip truck :), power and economy is not its strong point, but as for reliability, nothing compares.
I look thru these threads about $20000 engine rebuilds, ECU fault codes, $1500 per injector, $7000 fuel pumps, give me slow any day.
I'm glad to own a 1HZ, but I have no friends on the highway
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