anderson plug to fridge or battery ????

Submitted: Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:05
ThreadID: 133090 Views:5121 Replies:6 FollowUps:10
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Hi every one I have an anderson plug wired through a redarc isolator on my vehicle. I have a new jayco starcraft which I wish to connect the wiring through an anderson plug to the vehice to run the fridge in the van when travelling but not certain whether to connect the circuit to the vans battery or fridge.any info would be much appreciated. thank you. Brian
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Reply By: TomH - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:21

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:21
Is best to run it direct from the car battery via a fridge switch which will prevent flat battery when engine off.. You need at least 8 B&S cable to run it and preferably 6 B&S if it is over a 150L Fridge.
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Reply By: Member - William B (The Shire) - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:51

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:51
Hi brianH,

I would think wiring it to the van battery would be the best option.
That would ensure your battery is being topped up and also runs the fridge.
If its the standard type 3 way fridge, I would when you are set up put it onto gas.
It works better on gas.( apologies if you already know this).

I am looking at the Starcraft 17.58.3 outback. I would be interested on your thoughts on the Starcraft.

William

Always planning the next trip. VKS-737 mobile 1619

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Follow Up By: brianH - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 16:02

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 16:02
Hi William please email me brian28133@gmail.com re info on starcraf.. Brian
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Reply By: swampy - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:57

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:57
hi
Install a 60amp fuse between batt post and isolater
Wire isolater to ando plug [at towbar]
Then ando plug [at towbar] to van battery.
At van batt install another 60 amp fuse.
6B&s / 13mm2 cable car to van at least .

Volt drop caused by to small a cable murders recharging time

van battery to 15/ 20 amp fuse then to a device called a fridge switch [movement on ,stationary off ] then to fridge .
8b&s / 8mm2 cable

The fuse is for a small 80 lt 3way .

tomo
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Follow Up By: TomH - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 15:28

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 15:28
Just to be different I ran two 6 B&S right through One for van battery charging and one for the fridge. Both through Anderson plugs. with appropriate fuses of course.

8 B&S is 10mm2

Voltage drop also makes the appliances at the other end run poorly or even burn out

Didnt use a fridge switch as we rarely stopped for long when shifting camps
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Follow Up By: swampy - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:11

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:11
hi
TomH

8B&s is 7.9mm2
7B&s is 10.54mm2
6B&s is 13.3 mm2

swampy
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Follow Up By: TomH - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 17:17

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 17:17
You are probably right I took it from here and I think he may be referring to total diameter
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page106.html

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Reply By: Notso - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 13:40

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 13:40
You'll find that the fridge isn't currently wired to your van battery. It will be set up to have a direct connection to the tow vehicle. Unless you've specifically asked for it.

Most vanners seem to leave it that way, but I can't see any reason why Swampies idea wouldn't work fine.

I have mine set up a bit differently as well with a 4 B&S Cable from Vehicle through anderson pllug which then supplies power to a DC to DC charger as well as to the Fridge.

AnswerID: 602823

Follow Up By: swampy - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:38

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:38
HI
Notso
In regards to your wiring choice. Although not mandatory in the marine industry tech advice from Ritar batts Aust is to have no loads between a charger and batteries . In the longer term the charger thinks the battery is constantly flat and permits a higher amperage to flow at a higher than float voltage . This apparently has destroyed many a batt in a marine application .
In a van application operater choice and thats why I would choose to connect to the input side of a dctdc charger with a fridge switch .

swamp
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Follow Up By: Notso - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 15:24

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 15:24
There is no load between the charger and the battery. The fridge is taken off before the DC to DC Charger.
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Reply By: Member - Chooky and Wobble - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 15:51

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 15:51
Not sure why you would need a fridge switch as the redarc isolator (VSR) cuts out automatically when the float comes off the vehicle battery.

I have 2 cables run from VSR to the plug at the back. One for fridge and one for battery charging.
The vehicle and van both came fitted new by the dealers with 12 pin plug and socket. I left it as fitted and have checked it regularly in case of a problem. Van Battery charges well and van fridge has given no problems keeping cold for 2 years whilst travelling.

My BT50 doesnt have a limiting alternator like a friends ranger does, so it floats at about 14 volts.

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AnswerID: 602825

Follow Up By: TomH - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 17:50

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 17:50
Just as an aside "Decent" wiring such as 8 B&S and thicker wont fit in anything like a 12 pin plug.
You are lucky yours works as I found the factory wiring to be sadly lacking and rewired the whole rig myself to stop voltage drop and run the fridge efficiently
It also depends which isolator the OP has. Some are designed to "Isolate" a second battery and thats when the fridge switch comes into play so as not to run that battery flat.

Others simply stop the current flowing down the back when the engine is turned off.

Perhaps the OP may like to tell us which model it is he has
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Follow Up By: swampy - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:25

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:25
hi
Chooky & Wobble
Re , why vsr and fridge switch
1/ The Vsr shuts down the whole caravan circuit
2/ and most importantly the fridge switch stops the current draw from the van batts .
Simply, battery isolation in the tug and van .

The only exception where a fridge switch maybe not needed is when u have a smaller compressor fridge as they draw far less amperage than a 3way.

swamp


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Follow Up By: Member - Chooky and Wobble - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:58

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:58
Thanks Tom and Swampy.

In my van the fridge 12v heat element runs off the vehicle supply. Thats how it was supplied and never changed it. From what I understand thats the norm now unless you request a change. The wiring loom in the vehicle was fitted by an auto elec to the specifications supplied by the caravan supplier. This was done from new through the vehicle dealer. Not sure what the cable size is to the fridge supply and van battery, but have just checked and when the fridge is cooling and engine running I get 14 volts at the fridge. Its a 3way fridge. The auto elec also fitted the electric brake controller and the rest of the caravan plug at the same time. The only thing that worried me a bit was a bunch of relays tucked up under the back of the vehicle behind the tow bar. They are well protected and apparently used to run the tail lights etc on the van due to the ebus system.

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Reply By: brianH - Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 20:50

Wednesday, Jul 27, 2016 at 20:50
Hi every one I would like to thank you for all the good info. I think I will go with the anderson to the fridge as it is already wired that way with the battery supplied from the car through number two pin.I will have run a new wire to do this as this pin is used in my car as reversing light circui..
As I allready have an anderson plug wired in my vehicle with a redarc isolator in place it seems the simplest way. I take note that the larger the supply wire the better not forgetting proper fuses.Thank you very much again. Brian
AnswerID: 602840

Follow Up By: Member - Bruce and Di T (SA) - Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:42

Thursday, Jul 28, 2016 at 13:42
We have our Anderson plug from the car wired to the van to charge the van's batteries. We've had that done twice, once to the Coromal we had and now to the Crusader x-Country. It means that we can run the fridge on 3 or 4 when we're travelling, when it's on gas and when it's on 240. I guess what I am saying is that the fridge now runs just as efficiently on 12v as on gas and 240. We had it done by the Home of 12 Volt.

Di
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