anderson plug to fridge or battery ????

Hi William please email me brian28133@gmail.com re info on starcraf.. Brian

Just to be different I ran two 6 B&S right through One for van battery charging and one for the fridge. Both through Anderson plugs. with appropriate fuses of course.

8 B&S is 10mm2

Voltage drop also makes the appliances at the other end run poorly or even burn out

Didnt use a fridge switch as we rarely stopped for long when shifting camps

hi
TomH

8B&s is 7.9mm2
7B&s is 10.54mm2
6B&s is 13.3 mm2

swampy

You are probably right I took it from here and I think he may be referring to total diameter
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page106.html

HI
Notso
In regards to your wiring choice. Although not mandatory in the marine industry tech advice from Ritar batts Aust is to have no loads between a charger and batteries . In the longer term the charger thinks the battery is constantly flat and permits a higher amperage to flow at a higher than float voltage . This apparently has destroyed many a batt in a marine application .
In a van application operater choice and thats why I would choose to connect to the input side of a dctdc charger with a fridge switch .

swamp

There is no load between the charger and the battery. The fridge is taken off before the DC to DC Charger.

Just as an aside "Decent" wiring such as 8 B&S and thicker wont fit in anything like a 12 pin plug.
You are lucky yours works as I found the factory wiring to be sadly lacking and rewired the whole rig myself to stop voltage drop and run the fridge efficiently
It also depends which isolator the OP has. Some are designed to "Isolate" a second battery and thats when the fridge switch comes into play so as not to run that battery flat.

Others simply stop the current flowing down the back when the engine is turned off.

Perhaps the OP may like to tell us which model it is he has

hi
Chooky & Wobble
Re , why vsr and fridge switch
1/ The Vsr shuts down the whole caravan circuit
2/ and most importantly the fridge switch stops the current draw from the van batts .
Simply, battery isolation in the tug and van .

The only exception where a fridge switch maybe not needed is when u have a smaller compressor fridge as they draw far less amperage than a 3way.

swamp

Thanks Tom and Swampy.

In my van the fridge 12v heat element runs off the vehicle supply. Thats how it was supplied and never changed it. From what I understand thats the norm now unless you request a change. The wiring loom in the vehicle was fitted by an auto elec to the specifications supplied by the caravan supplier. This was done from new through the vehicle dealer. Not sure what the cable size is to the fridge supply and van battery, but have just checked and when the fridge is cooling and engine running I get 14 volts at the fridge. Its a 3way fridge. The auto elec also fitted the electric brake controller and the rest of the caravan plug at the same time. The only thing that worried me a bit was a bunch of relays tucked up under the back of the vehicle behind the tow bar. They are well protected and apparently used to run the tail lights etc on the van due to the ebus system.

We have our Anderson plug from the car wired to the van to charge the van's batteries. We've had that done twice, once to the Coromal we had and now to the Crusader x-Country. It means that we can run the fridge on 3 or 4 when we're travelling, when it's on gas and when it's on 240. I guess what I am saying is that the fridge now runs just as efficiently on 12v as on gas and 240. We had it done by the Home of 12 Volt.

Di