Connecting thick gauge cables

The link takes me to a "Data Base Error"

Crimping is industry proven and easy with the correct equipment. Soldering is messy and difficult without skill and experience.

Get some of the ones in my link and you possibly wont need to cut anything

Tom, are you perhaps missing the point that Ricky is joining a 25mm2 cable to a 9mm2 cable? I cannot see anything designed to do that in your link and in fact I don't think such a crimp link is manufactured.
The alternative of soldering into butt links is most difficult, if not impossible, to do reliably.

Nice supplier Tom, I will be using these guys in the future. I have used step down connectors in the past but I think they may no be made anymore or are unavailable in bigger sizes. No worries, stripping the strands and sliding both cables into a 10mm2 sleeve is easy and effective. I prefer to crimp as there is less chance of air in between strands etc. My soldering skills are alright but certainly not up to pro standards. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.

At the risk of starting arguments, straight crimping is just fine, IF you can totally protect the joint from ingress of moisture, dust and road grime.

If you can't protect the joint 100% from the above, then soldering is the only way to go.

Using Scotchlocks or unprotected crimp connections is a recipe for failure of electrical current transmission, particularly where current transmission levels are low.

I personally hate any crimped wiring joins with a passion - as it seems to me, that half my life has been taken up with chasing up wiring connection failures - that could always be traced to dirty, verdigris-attacked, crimped connections!! GRRRR!!!

Cheers, Ron.

Ricky

For what it is worth , I would be sticking with Allan's Idea .

Cheers

.
Hi Ron,
I wouldn't dream of starting an argument with you. I would just say that there seem to be as many arguments in favour and against either crimp or solder. Each to his own!
Of course, crimping has become the electrical engineering standard if for no other reason than economy. But in reality, it is possible to control the quality of a crimped connection easier than a soldered one. Provided that the correct selection of crimp lug and crimping die is made then it is almost impossible to go wrong. Soldering however requires training, skill and experience to reliably make a sound joint, particularly in cable sizes above 16mm2.
On the issue of corrosion, both crimp and solder require sound protection from environmental attacks. The advent of glue-lined heatshrink was a blessing for the industry.
So, you solder your end and I'll crimp mine and I'll wait in the bar for you. lol

Peter, that takes me to a "Data Base Error" same as the first link to the site.

All I get is their website and "DATA BASE ERROR" when I click that link.....same as Tom H's link (above).

SNAP.... John beat me to it!!!. hahaha

Try this then
http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/Home And go down to electrical connectors

Click the first link a couple of times it seems to come right if you do

You can buy those blocks for different size cables at Jaycar I have used them on car stereo instalations
Also using a larger than normal tube can be crimped into a C shape and then squashed in a vice. Did some Clips for a jumper cable last week and they wont pull out in a hurry Was using 3 G welding cable

Copy and paste this into a new tab:

http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/product/1553

It worked OK in the preview but after I submitted the message it does not work

Unless you have a battery (or other high current voltage source) on each end of the wire you should have only one fuse in the line. Every fuse in line causes a voltage drop. The extra fuses also are an extra potential source of problems.

I think Zippo's method is the best way to go.

Umm you do have a battery on each end of the wire.
Input current comes from the start battery whilst being charged by the alternator, up to 14.2v, in my case the ANL fuse has almost zero impact on voltage drop.
On the output side the BCDC raises the voltage to suit my AGM's 14.5v so certainly no voltage drop there either.
It's also the way Redarc recommend you wire the unit to protect the system as a whole.

Redarc BCDC wiring diagram