2013 ISUZU SX High Ride my12 auto

Submitted: Thursday, Sep 15, 2016 at 16:37
ThreadID: 133449 Views:4248 Replies:5 FollowUps:5
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Hi Guys .
I am thinking of purchasing the above vehicle two wheel drive ,the towing rate of 3500 ,I will be used for towing a van around 1600 to 1800 weight .I am just wondering if you have had any experience with one of these ,it has approx 90000 ks on clock .
thanks guys
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Reply By: Member - peterdre - Thursday, Sep 15, 2016 at 20:13

Thursday, Sep 15, 2016 at 20:13
Guess you are talking about a D-max?
AnswerID: 604425

Reply By: Kazza055 - Thursday, Sep 15, 2016 at 20:50

Thursday, Sep 15, 2016 at 20:50
Tow our 2500kg van behind our 2014 D-Max LST and it does it easily but there is no way i would be using any of the 3500kg rated dualcabs to tow at the maximum allowed.
At the weight you have stated, it will be a breeze and I can highly recommend the auto box, it is the best auto I have ever towed with.

For your info there is lots to read here (www.newd-max.net/search.php?search_id=active_topics) and here (http://www.ozisuzu.com.au/index.php?action=forum)
AnswerID: 604428

Reply By: Iza B - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 06:01

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 06:01
I have the Four wheel drive version. Have done more than 20,000 k with about 2100 Kg behind. "D" for go does the trick and I have had no issues. Only advice from me is to ensure you put weight in the tray if their is a choice between putting it in the van or the vehicle tray.

AnswerID: 604435

Reply By: Ron N - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 12:14

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 12:14
The 2WD Isuzu D-Max does not have a towing capacity of 3500kg.
The manufacturers towing capacity is 2500kg.

They are a very good and very reliable little truck, and they are hard to find in good used condition, as they rarely come on the market.

Isuzu have been building commercial vehicles for a number of decades and they have a very good reputation for strength and reliability.
Every Isuzu motor I have stripped down, shows very robust construction.

The Isuzu D-Max isn't a favourite amongst the motoring journalists because it doesn't have the flashiness and bells and whistles of the likes of the Ford Ranger or Toyota Hilux.
However, lots of bells and whistles is a good indicator that there's a lot more devices to give you trouble as the vehicle ages.

You won't have any problem with towing 1800kgs behind a 2WD D-Max.
I've towed 1800kgs behind a 2WD 2.7L petrol Hilux with no major problems - apart from really needing a little more power on big hills!

Cheers, Ron.
AnswerID: 604450

Follow Up By: chris a - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 18:15

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 18:15
Thanks guys.
I had a drive of D max today very powerful unit ,seem to be a strong unit . Ron the 2 wheel high riser does have a rating of 3500 TC
how ever I wouldn't use that amount of power . it is very interesting to know you tow a 1800kgs van with your 2,7 Hilux , I have one at the moment a single cab chaise with a aluminium tray and a fibre glass canopy. powerful little units ,with a TC of 2300,leg space is very cramped not much leg room .and is a very hard riding truck .I don't think I would like to travel any long distance in it ,the D MAX seems be hard riding to ,I have been around Australia twice with a AU Ford Fairmont a lot more comfortable ,transmissions don't seem to last very long , thanks Chris
FollowupID: 874205

Follow Up By: Ron N - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 19:37

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 19:37
Ahhh, O.K. I see what the story is, now with the two ratings. I was looking at the Low-Ride.

The only mechanical difference between the 2WD Low-Ride and the 2WD High-Ride is that the LR has 280mm front discs and 15" wheels and the HR has 300mm front discs and 16" wheels.

So those two slight differences means a 500kg towing difference!
Everything else is exactly the same - suspension, drive train, rear axle.
The transmissions, however are manual-only on the LR, and auto-only on the HR.

Both the Hiluxes and the D-Maxes have a pretty firm ride. They are commercial vehicles, after all.
I get the impression that some of the high-end luxury dual cabs have softer suspensions, because people aren't buying them for use as work vehicles, they're buying them largely for recreation, with only an occasional bit of load-lugging thrown in.

If you throw all your camping and travel gear in, and hook up a 'van, you'll soon get a smoother ride!

Here's a hint. If you buy one - like all Common Rail diesels - installing additional fuel filtering is a worthy accessory, particularly if you're filling up from some dubious old service stations, with underground tanks that are full of rusty water!

Cheers, Ron.
FollowupID: 874207

Follow Up By: Kazza055 - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 20:48

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 20:48
Comparing a sedan with a dualcab is a bit like chalk and cheese but putting a bit of weight into the tray will bring them close.
FollowupID: 874208

Follow Up By: Gronk - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 20:55

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 20:55
Here's a hint. If you buy one - like all Common Rail diesels - installing additional fuel filtering is a worthy accessory, particularly if you're filling up from some dubious old service stations, with underground tanks that are full of rusty water!

I always find this a strange comment. Additional filters are usually not as fine as the OEM and as such only screen out the bigger stuff. As the OEM filter is approx 2 to 5 micron, with regular monitoring, what does the extra filter do ??

Extra water traps....now that can only be an advantage....but fuel filtering ??
FollowupID: 874209

Follow Up By: Ron N - Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 22:52

Friday, Sep 16, 2016 at 22:52
Gronk, most filter suppliers will offer a selection of filtration levels, down to 2 micron.

However, as you say, there's no benefit in fitting an extra 2 micron filter.

What is of benefit, though, is fitting a coarser filter, with a water trap, so you trap the big diameter contaminants - or the contaminants that appear in bulk (such as when the suction line picks up a litre of rusty scaley water that just went in, in the last fill).

An additional filter before the factory-fitted original fuel filter, takes the contaminant filtering load off the original fuel filter - and therefore results in less filtering demand on the original filter.

Then there is the "fuel recirculation" factor to take into account with CR injection.
Because CR systems pressurise fuel to around 200 Mpa (and even up to 300 Mpa in some systems), there is a lot of heat generated in the high compression of the fuel, that is transferred to the fuel.

As a result, the fuel is constantly recirculated to the tank at a substantial rate. This high recirculation rate not only stirs up the fuel (and therefore the contaminants) in the tank - it also places pressure on the filtering system, as the fuel is rapidly circulated - as compared to the older fuel systems where the recirculation rate was minimal.

Therefore, additional aftermarket filtering is again reducing the load on the original filter, due to the fuel recirculation rate.

In general, aftermarket filters are cheap, as compared to the manufacturers one.

The standard fuel filter is selected as a bare minimum, to keep build costs down.

The manufacturers expect you to only ever place clean fuel in your vehicle - but as you and I know, we often have little idea what is being pumped into our tanks, we are reliant on service stations to "do the right thing" - but plenty don't.

Adding an additional filter improves the level of overall filtering substantially, and acts as an additional fuel injection system, protection layer.
With the repair cost of CR fuel injection systems and injectors running into multiple thousands, when they get a gutful of contaminants, it makes sense to increase the CR fuel injection system protection.

It amazes me that blokes will spend big bikkies on bullbars, long range tanks, wide wheels and bigger tyres, chips, and exhaust systems - yet they fail to take the elementary step of ensuring that the fuel the engine is getting, is as clean as it can be made.

Berrima Diesel have a good webpage outlining the benefits (and the pitfalls) of improving fuel filtration, better than I can explain it in a few paragraphs on a forum.
These blokes work hands-on with fuel systems every day, and they see the good and the bad.

Berrima Diesel - filtration

Cheers, Ron.
FollowupID: 874211

Reply By: The Bantam - Saturday, Sep 17, 2016 at 10:29

Saturday, Sep 17, 2016 at 10:29
If you are concerned with the ride in any of these utilities.

#1 put some weight in the tray ..... between 100 and 200KG makes all the difference .... it will also behave better under brakes and for traction.

#2 replace the shock absorbers

#3 adjust the tyre pressures so they are correct for the load carried and not just 55psi "because that it what we put in all of theses"

#4 carry a passenger, or put some weight behind the passenger seat ..... the cabs have some sort of rubber isolation ..... this works best with some weight in both seats.

AnswerID: 604463

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