Fridge switch

Hi
Rob ,
Are u interested in selling your old fridge switch??

tomo

Why anybody would bother over complicating something so simple that works so very well .... I have no idea.
A relay, some wire and connectors is all that is required ...... when the engine runs the fridge runs .. easy.

Before voltage sensing relays came along that is how people charged their second battery .... and it worked reasonably well.

As for the dc to dc chargers ..... they have a voltage sensing function so when the battery voltage drops ..... thus indicating there is no source of charge .... the disconnect.

Cheers

cheers

Rob, there is nothing new about it. It has been around for 10 years or more. A far cheaper way is wire your fridge line up as Dometic recommend.

Agree with Peter D, relay connected via the ignition is so simple with virtually nothing to go wrong.

Ignition is on, fridge is on, ignition is off, fridge is off.

Fridge switch might sound simple enough but it does not cut the 12V at the source.

Why would you need to cut the 12v off at the source? Do you have multiple relays to cut the 12v off at the source when you switch lights off.
A motion activated Fridge Switch is even simpler. You could even run it from a VSR.

BTW PeterD, my vehicle does not have breaker points or ignition coil and in fact do modern petrol engines?

Yes, you are right Rod but the ignition relay is the most simple and cheapest.

And I think we all know that the drawing posted by peter is meant to be symbolic.

"BTW PeterD, my vehicle does not have breaker points or ignition coil and in fact do modern petrol engines?"

That diagram is not a detailed instruction of how to wire any vehicle. Yes diesel engines do not have electric ignition but we still call the key switch that we use to start the motor the ignition switch. If you can't see the message behind the diagram then I suggest you stay away from vehicle electrics.

Pretty much all vehicles have some sort of circuit that is live only when the ignition is turned on.

There are other things apart from the breaker points that have to run only when the engine runs.

cheers

Phill mate you just don't understand ....... DC to DC chargers are voltage sensing.

If you have a second battery in the van AND a three way fridge ........ ya not going to get much charging happeing unless you have very heavy wires front to back.

AND .... there is no need for extra wires or extra plugs.

cheers

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I guess that it all depends on the battery arrangement. Whether there is a battery in the van or not.
A three-way fridge would impose an unacceptable load on any battery for more than a very short time. They really can only be supported by an alternator. Furthermore, as Bantam says, there can be charging issues with both a 3-way fridge and a battery in a van. It would require very heavy cables or a
dc-dc charger. And the fridge would need to be turned off when the motor is not running.

I have just installed the system below in a friend's rig. It supplies 12v to the fridge only when the engine is running and charges the caravan battery via a multi-mode dc-dc charger. Grossly oversized cables are not required as the charger operates down to 9 volts supply (Under load) and the cranking battery is fully protected. Note that it is a Redarc BCDC-1220-IGN charger. The "IGN" model requires activation via the Blue "Ignition" wire although in this case that wire is connected to the incoming 12v cable which is only live when the vehicles ignition is 'on' due to the solenoid isolator.

This particular installation has extra Anderson plugs which can be used with an auxiliary battery and fridge in the tub with or without the caravan. This load is isolated from the cranking battery by the solenoid isolator. The Setec power supply was existing and serves to supply the caravan lights and charge the battery when on 230vac in a caravan park.

Gee Allan, that must be from a real modern car as it does not seem to have any ignition points ;=))

Not going there Kazza! lol

Whats that saying - KISS. Keep it simple stupid. hahaha