Sound insulation in Landcruiser.

Well I tend to find corrugations are something you feel rather than hear...

Cheers Baz - The Landy

You could have the inside of the doors. the floor pan, internal body panels and the wheel arches coated with body deadener and 3m make a quality one.
It will add a bit of weight though.

I don't thing placing anything under the roof will do much.

Get on to LCOOL.ORG and search for Dynamat. Used for soundproofing 70 series so they can hear their sound systems.

Regards

What model 70 series do you have, Ian?

Check out "70 series Landcruiser Owners" on Facebook. Trawl through it and you'll find quite a few references/questions about this subject. Many use Dynamat and couple of other brands. I feel it might be a prick of a job, doing some areas, but I don't get too enthusiastic about anything these days.........unfortunately!

Re the roof, we used to own an 80 series wagon, and on many types of corrugations, the roof clearly vibrated like buggery.

Bob.

Hi Ian,

I used a combination of dynamat and Car Builders Foam. The foam was only used in the ceiling cavity after I put in strips of dynamat. For the rest of the vehicle, I basically put down strips of dynamat wherever I could fit them, including the inside of the door skins, floor, rear of the cab, and the ceiling and I think it helps. I probably ended up with about 50-65% coverage. Some recommend a lot more, but the instructions say a lot less will also be effective.

It has certainly helped for road noise and also for the quality of sound out of my sound system.

The job is pretty simple. I cut the dynamat with a good pair of shears/scissors and then used a solid roller, and the back of a screwdriver handle to roll/rub it into the corners etc.

Good luck with it, I personally thought it was well worth doing.

Ben

You will find that a lot of people use Dynamat as it is well known but it is designed primarily to improve acoustic performance rather than sound proofing although it does still help significantly

If you look on their website you will see that have a different product and process for soundproofing which is a three layer system from memory

A more suitable product is Bam from Focal. It is an acoustic mat but has much better soundproofing properties as it has a less dense air cell type layer incorporated into it and a lot of hi end audio companies prefer this product, price between the two is very similar

Jaycar also sells their version as well which is a bit cheaper as well

Any product that takes the hollow ring out of the sheet metal will make significant improvements

I have purchased a double pack of Dynamat but yet to install.
Came with a neoprene roller, knife and joint tape.
I had a friend install the same and the difference in road and rain noise on the roof is remarkable.
There is a youtube video from London Dynamat installer fitting out a Volkwagon transporter with before and after decibel reader and that convinced me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4PcADCh_lI

I have a mate that has gone to a lot of effort with dynamat to reduce road noise in his Dmax SX Space Cab , he has spent about $1200 on Dynamat , the only Pannel he hasn't done is the roof ,
I forget what he said it weighed but it wasn't light , I remembered thinking it could be enough to put some over GVM .
I have the same Dmax SX Space Cab , maybe I'm deaf but if there is a difference in road noise between his vehicle and mine it's not much.
I really wanted there to be a noticeable difference , I was keen to do the same to my Ute , I'm not going to bother now .

Hi
Much of the noise will be from panel vibration . The remainder outside noise penetration . How much comes from a 1 cause or another is debateable .

A combination approach is best
Stay away from tar based noise deadner messy

A combination of 3M stonegard sprays on with a cheap dedicated sprayer . This is effective if u spray the complete internal floor . Then use a combination underlay /sound deadner under either vinyl or thick carpet .

OR
install dynamat and spray 3M stonegard in areas u cannot get to

Doing the under side of the roof will help a great deal also

For me it is not so much the road noise that bothers me, it is the wind noise coming past the snorkel and the pillar on the drivers side.

I do my fault finding while going along by listening to noises. I have come to know what is normal noise when traveling, and should I hear a different noise, I stop to investigate.

Most of my working life I have worked around heavy machinery so noise doesn't really bother me that much.

I always drive with my window down, be it summer or winter, with the exception of pouring rain, as I am a smoker. :(

Just my thoughts.

Thanks to you all for the input. I think Dynamat is the way for me.
Ian

It must be understood that pretty much all the toyota commercials ( well most commercials period) are very poorly sound insulated, and a lot can be done to improve that.

I've considerably improved one of my hiluxes using methods I know from the sound business.

A lot of the car HIFI guys use loaded sheeting, which is effective, but it's expensive and heavy ...... there are lighter weight adhesive sheetings that work.

what the loaded sheetings are trying to do is increase the weight of the panel, this knocks out a lot of the mid and high transmission.

BUT using un loaded bitumen sheet or body deadner will deaden the sheet metal without adding too much weight or costing too much.

plain undeadened sheet metal ...... and there is a lot of it in the toyota commercials is pretty near transparent and makes a lot of noise when struck with stones, sticks leaves or even raindrops ...... doing pretty much anything to shut it up will be an improvement.

On the utilities the back wall is pretty much intreated inside and out ..... a hell of a lot of noise comes thru it and a lot of your airconditioning cooloness is wasted thu it.

I treated the back wall of my 4wd with standard off the roll 10mm automotive cotton waste, underfelt and light marine carpet. ...... spray glue is your friend ... lay up and trim the underfelt and then lay up the carpet over.
I would not say the difference was dramatic but it did make quite a difference (remember I have 1 vehicle treated and the other not). Yeh I notice it.

you could do this to the roof, pull out the roof lining and cover the whole roof in the underlay ( hell 2 layers) and either carpet over or refit a standard roof lining ...... not only will this shut it up but reduce heat transmission.

If you want to get serious about ya troopie roof, do the same thing but with 25mm or more foam ...... a friend of mine sells the same foam used in mitsubishi interiour trims in various thicknesses ..... we use it in equipment casses, it is fire retardent and long term durable ( some sheet foams degrade over a few years) ...... a full sheet of foam ( 2m x 1 m) would cover most of a troopie roof.

Using bulk absorbent treatment will not only deaden the panel but will also absorb noise that enters the cabin rather that it just continuing to bounce around.

Inside the doors you realy dont have much option but hard impervious meterial, because toyota doors drain internally ( there is water in the doors at times).
You don't need the heavy expensive loaded materials ...... plain rubber sheet will be an improvement on plain undeadned sheet metal ...... likewise ordinary bitumen sheet ...... anything will help shut up thin tin.

The other thing to do with doors is look at what you are doing with door cards ...... the 2mm masonite, a very thin thickness of foam and a layer of thin vinyl is most of the acoustic insulation of your doors ....... changing to 7mm, 10mm or heavier plywood firmly screwed in place will shut ya doors up quite a bit as well as giving a better mounting for your speakers.
About those speakers ..... sound goes straight thru those paper cones ..... if ya serious either put some insulation material behind the speakers or don't mount in the doors.

Now to the floor ...... the fastest and most effective thing to shut up the floor is heavy rubber mats ..... the bigger the heavier the better.

another option for vans and troopies is to sheet the load area in plywwod .... at least 12mm or 15mm, then marine carpet over the top ...... let me tell you this shuts vans up a beauty and gives you a nice flat surface to lay on, load or work with.

pretty much everybody I know ..... first thing they do to a new van is sheet the floor.

In cab type utes and in the cab of troopies ...... you have options depending on what you do with it ....... if you do water crossings and get water in the cab, the only reasonable option is heavy rubber mats ...... ..... use the factory mats as a template and get heavy rubber or get rubber mats and cut them up ..... make sure you cover the transmission tunnel and under the seats. ... oh and as far up the fire wall as you can.

If the cab never gets wet ...... pull up ya mats, get rid of that diet under felt and get some of the good 10mm stuff.

All of the toyota cabs are mounted on rubber, and they ride better and quieter with some weight in the cab ...... if you ride alone or are skinny, add some weight to the cab ...... I keep my drag chains, and some of my recovery gear behind the passenger seat in heavy canvas bags ..... this has proven to improve things, particular when traveling solo.

remember, one measure may not be all the improvement you are looking for.

hope this helps

cheers

Forget the dynamat, go to bunnings and get the repair tape from the roofing section. Same stuff, butyl rubber with aluminium backing and a self stick coating, less than 1/3 of dynamat, in the rear doors and side panels where no windows retract just pack with insulfluff from spotlight.