LC100 IFS - Measuring the lift.

The back went up 40mm - The truck has leveled off a bit. - I'm obviously very happy with the 65mm at the front unless it will cause problems down the track.

Gaz

Gary,
The problem with going too high in the front is that you run out of wheel travel. The front wheels can't go any further down and this may cause problems. The CV joints would be under consistent strain because of the angle that they would be working at all the time.
40mm at the front and 60mm at the back would be a better set up but wait until the vehicle has done a few kiolmetres and see if it drops a bit more.

Wayne

A bit of clarity please. When you fit a new suspension kit that is supposed to provide 40-50 mm lift - how is this lift calculated/designed? I ask because I fitted a kit like this to my Patrol (in an emergency situation), and ended up with more height than Skippy on steroids. The GU Patrol is stock standard and the height (wheel rim to arch) is 830mm front and 840 rear unladen. Small cars no longer exist. Fully loaded and towing a boat seems to make no difference to height at all (eyeball). Haven't measured it but will when I need to load it all up again.

Response from the manufacturer was (quote) :-
"when our suspension kits are fitted in the correct application the
lift that they are designed for is 40 - 50mm above standard height. What i
mean by this is that if you fit heavy duty springs to a vehicle that does
not require heavy duty springs the lift will be greater than 50mm above the
standard height."

I have no complaint with the kit or the manufacturer - it was my choice. I regard this as my problem, but I'm just trying to work out where I went wrong.

My (uneducated) understanding was that I would get 40-50mm lift on a standard vehicle, but that there would be no (or less) sag when the vehicle is loaded.

From the design point of view is it simply a matter of bunging in very long heavy springs and relying on the vehicle weight to bring it back down to 40-50mm? Doesn't seem too much engineering involved in that.

I admit my complete ignorance. How does this really work?

Thanks,

Diesel Do,

Can I suggest you post this as a separate post - yours might get lost in here. I'm no expert so any comment I make wouldn't be that helpful.

For what its worth my understanding is that a 50mm lift means that if you measured a brand new factory GU from rim the guard then measured yours is would be 50mm higher.

Often suspension ends up being a higher lift because the existing suspension had sagged.

How suspension acts under load does depend on the design of the spring and I will leave any further comment to others more qualified.

Gaz

I wanted as much front lift as possible within the limitations of the IFS. I also have a Bar & Winch and the factory torsion bars are known to sag within 20,000ks - In the rear I have OME 863's they are a 200KG constanst load springs. We have an Aussie Swag camper. This was the reccomended spring.

I drove it last night. Its certainly firmer but not uncomfortable - That was exactly what I wanted.

I have since found out that the correct measure is either top of rim to guard or to measure the shocker.

Yes I have Dick Cepek 285/75/16's and they raised it about 25mm but they were on when I did the pre-check so didn't interfere with my measurements.

Gaz

If you measure from the top of the rim to the guard it may vary slightly if you don't measure directly straight up. Slightly too from the centre. When measuring from the bottom of the rim, line the measure through the centre of the wheel & this should give you the most accurate reading.