LC100 IFS - Measuring the lift.

Submitted: Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:01
ThreadID: 13445 Views:4935 Replies:8 FollowUps:7
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Picked up the cruiser last night after having all the toys put on, which included OME suspension all round. My understanding - indeed I was clearly told (also confirmed by many posts here and elsewhere) that the max lift on an IFS was 35mm. I had measured the distant from guard (top of arch over axle) to floor (in the garage - vehicle empty) on each of the 4 corners before I took it in (Bare in mind this is a brand new truck with less than 200ks on the clock). I measured it again last night (after the lift) and the front is up 65mm higher than before.

Have I misunderstood the measuring? Or should I be concerned that the installer (an ARB dealer) has preloaded the torsion bars too much?
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Reply By: jackablue - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:32

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:32
Your OME paperwork should state what the ride height was before & after. The measurement should be taken from the bottom of the rim to the top of the guard, to be more accurate. Give it the 500km settling & then see what the ride height is when you take it back.

Cheers

Jackablue
AnswerID: 61619

Reply By: old_55 - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:36

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:36
I told you to be careful with them. (tic)

Hope it settles down for you.
AnswerID: 61620

Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:44

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:44
Gary,
When a vehicle is measured it is done either from the bump stop to the axel. This is only on solid axel vehicles. The other methiod is to measure from the bottom of the rim to the top of the wheel arch.
When I was fitting suspension for TJM, I had to fill out a form that gave the before and after measurement. A copy of this was given to the customer and a copy kept at the shop. After 1000km the vehicle was booked in for a check and a finial measurement. I am sure ARB would have a simular process.
The front end does seem a bit high, and that is when it is fitted out. How much did the back go up? When you do get it sorted and to the ride hight that you want don't forget to get the vehicle wheel aligned.

Wayne
AnswerID: 61622

Follow Up By: GaryW - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:49

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 08:49
The back went up 40mm - The truck has leveled off a bit. - I'm obviously very happy with the 65mm at the front unless it will cause problems down the track.

Gaz
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FollowupID: 323100

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 09:05

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 09:05
Gary,
The problem with going too high in the front is that you run out of wheel travel. The front wheels can't go any further down and this may cause problems. The CV joints would be under consistent strain because of the angle that they would be working at all the time.
40mm at the front and 60mm at the back would be a better set up but wait until the vehicle has done a few kiolmetres and see if it drops a bit more.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 323104

Follow Up By: Diesel Do - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 11:49

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 11:49
A bit of clarity please. When you fit a new suspension kit that is supposed to provide 40-50 mm lift - how is this lift calculated/designed? I ask because I fitted a kit like this to my Patrol (in an emergency situation), and ended up with more height than Skippy on steroids. The GU Patrol is stock standard and the height (wheel rim to arch) is 830mm front and 840 rear unladen. Small cars no longer exist. Fully loaded and towing a boat seems to make no difference to height at all (eyeball). Haven't measured it but will when I need to load it all up again.

Response from the manufacturer was (quote) :-
"when our suspension kits are fitted in the correct application the
lift that they are designed for is 40 - 50mm above standard height. What i
mean by this is that if you fit heavy duty springs to a vehicle that does
not require heavy duty springs the lift will be greater than 50mm above the
standard height."

I have no complaint with the kit or the manufacturer - it was my choice. I regard this as my problem, but I'm just trying to work out where I went wrong.

My (uneducated) understanding was that I would get 40-50mm lift on a standard vehicle, but that there would be no (or less) sag when the vehicle is loaded.

From the design point of view is it simply a matter of bunging in very long heavy springs and relying on the vehicle weight to bring it back down to 40-50mm? Doesn't seem too much engineering involved in that.

I admit my complete ignorance. How does this really work?

Thanks,
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FollowupID: 323130

Follow Up By: GaryW - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 12:13

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 12:13
Diesel Do,

Can I suggest you post this as a separate post - yours might get lost in here. I'm no expert so any comment I make wouldn't be that helpful.

For what its worth my understanding is that a 50mm lift means that if you measured a brand new factory GU from rim the guard then measured yours is would be 50mm higher.

Often suspension ends up being a higher lift because the existing suspension had sagged.

How suspension acts under load does depend on the design of the spring and I will leave any further comment to others more qualified.

Gaz
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FollowupID: 323132

Reply By: Member - Willie Sydney - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 10:38

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 10:38
Gary ,

I have a TLC100TD and am just about to get a suspension upgrade as well .
I am tossing up between ARB and Lovell to do the job .

I have been told I need a heavy duty torsion bar and heavier duty springs on the back and better shocks . I tow a Trak Shak and have a long range fuel tank and a Kaymar rear bar and wheel mount so I need some help at the back. At the front I have a winch on an ARB steel bull bar , so I guess I need a beef up there too .

I don't want a "high lift " job done though .

What were your needs and what upgrade did you settle for ? There is so much BS going round about suspensions - I need as much help as I can get !

Thanks ,

Willie .
AnswerID: 61643

Follow Up By: GaryW - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 10:53

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 10:53
I wanted as much front lift as possible within the limitations of the IFS. I also have a Bar & Winch and the factory torsion bars are known to sag within 20,000ks - In the rear I have OME 863's they are a 200KG constanst load springs. We have an Aussie Swag camper. This was the reccomended spring.

I drove it last night. Its certainly firmer but not uncomfortable - That was exactly what I wanted.
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FollowupID: 323125

Reply By: GaryW - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 10:42

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 10:42
ARB Corporate have confirmed that the key spec is not the size of the lift but rather the amount of "wheel drop" (read downward travel) remaining after the install. They require 60-70mm - anything less and you run the risk of pulling the shocks to bits as they stop the travel when the wheel drops.

Its going back in tomorrow to have this spec double checked.

Thanks all for your comments.
AnswerID: 61647

Reply By: fozzy - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 11:02

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 11:02
probably best to measure from centre of hub wwheel cap to bottom of guard so wont effect measuremnet when /if you change tyre or rim sizes. you havent mentioned if you have different tyres on-assume you would have gone mud/all terrain eg 285/75/16 or similar which would add to height the way you originally measured.
standard height of mine at front when new measured from centre of centre cap to bottom of guard was (pretty sure) 500mm-cant remember what rear was but could check on weekend if u like.
with standard torsion bars could only get i think 35mm lift which settled down to 25mm.
let car settle for a bit then measure again and get your front end alignment once your happy with height at front.
wouldnt go more than 45mm lift at front from centre of cap to bottom of guard-advised bysuspension bloke and think arb say 35mm(dont quote me on that)
good luck
AnswerID: 61651

Follow Up By: GaryW - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 11:47

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 11:47
I have since found out that the correct measure is either top of rim to guard or to measure the shocker.

Yes I have Dick Cepek 285/75/16's and they raised it about 25mm but they were on when I did the pre-check so didn't interfere with my measurements.

Gaz
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FollowupID: 323129

Follow Up By: jackablue - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 13:36

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 13:36
If you measure from the top of the rim to the guard it may vary slightly if you don't measure directly straight up. Slightly too from the centre. When measuring from the bottom of the rim, line the measure through the centre of the wheel & this should give you the most accurate reading.
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FollowupID: 323142

Reply By: floyd - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 14:13

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 14:13
I had my current model IFS Hilux set up the same as yours with the same OME stuff fitted by ARB. Initially the lift seemed high but after about 5000 kms the torsion bars lowered a bit. I then loaded the front up with Duel Batteries, Winch bar and 9000 lb warn, ARB side rails, ARB side steps, driving lights, turbo etc etc and it dropped even more. I then mesured all of the height and realised that it had dropped well below the 35 mm height so I adjusted the tortion bars myself as described in the vehicles manual. Brought it back up to height in about 5 minutes. Now is perfect.

Just let the front end settle in a bit and then check the heights. Adjustment is a piece of cake.
AnswerID: 61678

Reply By: kiwi2 - Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 14:16

Friday, Jun 04, 2004 at 14:16
I've heard that a IFS 100 series can be lifted by fitting spacers between the body and the front diff. Anybody know about this?
AnswerID: 61681

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