Engel fridge MT17F-G4

we do have a Honda Eui 20 Genny but the fridge has always been connected to 12volt or normal volt and not the genny

Hi Craig

Your Honda would not be the cause, as they are a quality generator,.

Have it checked out and it could be something simple.

Good luck


Cheers




Stephen

Tony, did you determine what caused the fuse to blow?

Hi Craig, the Fuse is ok as there is 12volt power getting to the Fridge, but it is not getting cold or staying cold on 12v so im now thinking the P.c board or the Thermostate

Or maybe take it to someone and get it repaired properly

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Craig L1,

Can you tell me exactly how you know "there is 12volt power getting to the Fridge"? And exactly where did you measure it?
What was the measured voltage? What did you use to measure the voltage?
How is the fridge connected to the vehicle battery?
And most importantly, have you previously operated the fridge OK with the present 12v cable and from the present 12v socket or source?

The answers are important information for troubleshooting. I'm trying to help you here.

Cheers

Allan

I agree.

The OP's problem though, is that fridge isn't getting cold on 12 volts, but does on 240v. On 12 volts he has an indication (lights?) that power is "there", just not running the motor and getting cold.

There maybe a partially severed wire inside the plug which is allowing enough juice through to activate the green LED on top and/or the internal lamp, but isn't allowing enough juice through to fire-up the compressor motor.

Like I said earlier.....see if you can borrow somebody else's 12 volt cable and try that.

Also, worth checking the power supply to the cigi socket (or dedicated Engel receptacle if one is fitted)....as there could be a case of insufficient power available. This can commonly occur when somebody uses a factory-fitted cigi socket in the back of a Japanese wagon.....the cabling to those sockets has to travel around 6 meters from the front of the vehicle and is about the thickness of the cotton grandma uses to mend your old jocks!!!

Roachie

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In that case Craig, it looks certain that the problem lies within the fridge. The 230v supply is reduced to 12v and supplied to the control board, but just because the 230v works OK does not mean that the control board is fully OK as these two 12v inputs enter on a differing part of the circuit.
Also, visual inspection of the board may not reveal any faults.... a fault does not always leave visual evidence.

However, there could be a problem in the connection of the 12vdc at the fridge input socket or in the wiring of this 12v to the control board. Try connecting the 12v then use your meter to find 12v at the back of the plug and on the input connections on the control board. If no 12v on the board then the problem is with the input plug/socket or the wiring to the board. If there is 12v on the board and it still does not run, then you likely have a faulty board.
As far as I know, the fridge uses only one thermostatic sensor so if the fridge works on 230vac then this must be OK.