Installing Chequer-plate Steel

Submitted: Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 14:02
ThreadID: 13531 Views:4173 Replies:5 FollowUps:7
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I am installing some chequer-plate steel sections onto a Defender 110 (ie.. aluminium paneling), and was wondering what the best way to do it would be?

I was thinking of running a bead of siliconeround the edge of the steel, a few zig-zags through the centre, then pressing it on. I could then drill the holes, and either pop-rivet or bolt on each panel.

The other option would be to get a large piece of rubber between the two bits of metal.

Does anyone ave any thoughts on this? The panels will be along the kick-boards below the doors, along the front wings, and on the rear corners.

thanks,

Chris
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Reply By: Rosco - Bris. - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 15:12

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 15:12
Chris

I put the wing top panels on mine and they came with some thin sticky backed foam rubber to match. I reckon something like that'd be your best bet, but don't know where you could buy same. Perhaps try Clark Rubber.

If you haven't already got the panelling, Graeme Cooper Cooper Automotive
http://www.lrexpert.com.au/custom.php?page=defender
have lotsa goodies ... at heaps better prices than LRE stuff.

Cheers
AnswerID: 62073

Follow Up By: Chumpion - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 15:42

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 15:42
I have actually just got off the phone from them - I'll call in and see them later on this week.

As a side note, he mentioned that he was looking at making some panels for the rear corner - I might wait to see what he come up with.

Chris
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FollowupID: 323433

Reply By: Lone Wolf - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 19:17

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 19:17
Okay........

Line up the panel, drill ALL the holes, even if it means using 2 rivets to keep the panel in place.
Remove panel, debur holes on panel AND car.
Use SICAFLEX or Silicone, then rivet within 5 minutes.

Rubber will tend to make panels distort when pulling up rivets.

Use Stainless Steel Rivets, DON'T listen to anyone else about Monel or Aluminium, just do the job ONCE.

I am a Sheetmetal Worker by the way.
AnswerID: 62119

Follow Up By: tcp_ip_boy - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 20:25

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 20:25
Thanks for that - sounds like good advice!

I'll buy you a beer when it's all together
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Follow Up By: Scott_G - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 21:57

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 21:57
another so called trained dummy of a sheetmetal worker
monel would out last stainless steel in every way under all conditions
another damn failure of the TAFE system
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Follow Up By: Lone Wolf - Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 07:19

Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 07:19
It's the electolosis component that worries me, I am led to believe that S/S is less of a risk.
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Follow Up By: Lone Wolf - Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 19:20

Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 19:20
Just checked to be sure, Stainless Steel is closer to zero on the Galvanic scale than Monel.

Stainless Steel = 0.0 - 0.15 ( 300 series )

Monel = 0.04 - 0.14

Not bad for a Dummy Sheetie, who is WAAAAAAY older than the TAFE system!

We are of course splitting hairs here, trivial stuff, but I am simply backing up my statement.
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FollowupID: 323640

Reply By: Skiddy - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 20:06

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 20:06
Chris, We build one tonne trays at my work , lone wolfs way is what we would do, just use heaps of sicaflex pr you will get lots of noise from the plate bouncing even if you use heaps of rivets
AnswerID: 62132

Reply By: Vinnie - Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 22:00

Monday, Jun 07, 2004 at 22:00
Chumpion
Take the Lonewolf's advice. That is how any decent sheety would do it.
AnswerID: 62158

Follow Up By: Rosco - Bris. - Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 07:13

Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 07:13
The genuine articles use 6mm ss countersunk metal threads and nylock nuts with the rubber interface.
No noise and can be removed if required...use Sikaflex or similar at your peril.

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FollowupID: 323540

Follow Up By: Lone Wolf - Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 19:23

Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 19:23
Yes, I forgot! Sikaflex is a bugger to pry things off, sorry!!
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FollowupID: 323641

Reply By: hoyks - Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 20:59

Tuesday, Jun 08, 2004 at 20:59
And use Neutral cure silicon. Acid cure will help corrosion. Stainless steel rivits are the go as comercial grade aluminium rivets aren't worth a pinch of poo.
AnswerID: 62348

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