CTEK D250s dual repair needed

Submitted: Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 03:50
ThreadID: 135533 Views:4911 Replies:7 FollowUps:12
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Hi,
Has anyone got a photo of a D250S circuit board, or a circuit diagram for it?
I have damaged a diode (D9) and need the part number thats printed on it. I might have connected up solar panel reverse polarity and fried it... no info on ctek site or others.....

cheers
phil
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Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 05:39

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 05:39
Allan B. might have been able to help you Phil, but he's just left on a trip into the remote areas of the Centre.

Bin the Ctek and get a Redarc 1225D. A new model that is simple to set up, with no relays or trigger wires required.

Bob

Seen it all, Done it all.
Can't remember most of it.

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AnswerID: 613597

Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, Sep 19, 2017 at 09:50

Tuesday, Sep 19, 2017 at 09:50
.
Thanks Bob, I have just returned to "civilisation" from the Hay River trip.

FourbyPhil seems to have it in hand now having found the replacement TVS diode.
But I would be concerned that more components may have suffered damage than just that diode. The quoted part number is rated to withstand a peak pulse current of 140 Amps and the photo would suggest that the protecting fuse is 30A so if the diode has destructed then the applied over-voltage may well have intruded further into the circuit. Time will tell after the diode and fuse are replaced.

I will say..... good luck getting help from CTEK other than "Return it for service".
Cheers
Allan

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FollowupID: 884400

Reply By: Alloy c/t - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 09:54

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 09:54
When you fry a Ctek it stays fried , it is the same as trying to unfry a chicken egg ,
AnswerID: 613605

Follow Up By: FourbyPhil - Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 15:26

Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 15:26
i have managed to unfry the egg. I removed the fried diode and replaced the blown fuse..

New diode on the way.......

now pass me the vegetable oil..........

cheers

Phil


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FollowupID: 884134

Reply By: RMD - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 10:24

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 10:24
If you know it is a diode and whch way around the band at the end was, then replace it with a high voltage diode of similar size. The sizes are an indication of the current rating, bigger won't hurt.
However, if a small diode, ie, glass envelope, it could be a Zener diode and knowing the voltage then would be required for correct operation.
If the unit is old and had plenty of use, the electroylic capacitors may be the cause of the diode failure because the circuits action may be incorrect and switching of semiconductors has drawn more than usual amps through the diode.
I recently repaired two swichmode power supplies where electrolytic capacitors had become ineffective. One did require a diode and electro's replaced. Both now work again. The concepts are quite similar in switching DC DC units.

Ctek won't give you any info, they want to sell a new one to you, not have you repair the one you have. They will only say, return to maker for service/repairs.
AnswerID: 613609

Reply By: FourbyPhil - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 13:07

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 13:07
Thanks for the prompt replies!

I managed to get to a mate's place and pulled his apart. The diode (D9) is a 5pex, which is a TVS type 5.0SMDJ22A.

Element14 has them but ill have to wait a week as they are coming from UK.....



Thanks again peeps
AnswerID: 613616

Follow Up By: RMD - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 13:42

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 13:42
If that is all that is wrong, the circuit won't know if you simply solder a large ability diode in it's place. Electrically itw ill be the same and your warranty is shot anyway, what have you got to lose? Why wait for weeks?
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FollowupID: 884105

Follow Up By: gbc - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 14:27

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 14:27
Don't you just love how they hide the fuses in there............
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FollowupID: 884107

Follow Up By: Dean K3 - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 18:09

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 18:09
Good to know it all looks like through hole mount equipment.

Trying to re-work smd without proper equipment is a pita.

Just curious to know what that white paste looking stuff is -thermal cooling ?
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FollowupID: 884114

Follow Up By: Zippo - Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 20:14

Friday, Sep 08, 2017 at 20:14
No, it's adhesive used to hold the bulky electros in place during the wave soldering. If the other sizeable/heavy components such as inductors aren't anchored the same way then they are hand-soldered afterwards.
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FollowupID: 884121

Follow Up By: FourbyPhil - Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 15:24

Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 15:24
Yeah dont know why they put serviceable fuses inside the "no serviceable parts inside" case.

Guess their technicians are desperate for work.....

I also noted the whole assembly is coated in a weather resistant waxy substance. This needed to be scraped off before my soldering iron would melt solder.

RMD - What would you suggest as a replacement diode? the specs on the OEM diode are 26v 10amp....

cheers
Phil
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FollowupID: 884133

Follow Up By: Zippo - Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 17:42

Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 17:42
Phil, it's a TVS - their role is to protect downstream circuitry from over-voltage (whether transient or not, in reality). To do that, they effectively develop a (transient) short-circuit which acts as a "crow-bar" and blows the UPSTREAM supply fuse. If such a fuse does not exist, or its rating is too high, then the TVS will itself fuse/blow, usually presenting a permanent short across the supply rails.

They also provide reverse-polarity protection, by the same mechanism.

Interesting that those on-board fuses are 30A.
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FollowupID: 884136

Follow Up By: IvanTheTerrible - Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 17:45

Saturday, Sep 09, 2017 at 17:45
That is a special diode designed to protect the circuit from voltage spikes. You cant just put anything in it's place. It's designed to act like a fuse
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FollowupID: 884137

Follow Up By: FourbyPhil - Monday, Sep 18, 2017 at 23:32

Monday, Sep 18, 2017 at 23:32
Thanks Ivan,

I'm just gunna be patient and wait for the correct part.....

BTW mimimum to order was 10, so if anyone else has done a similar thing, I've got a few spare ones.

Will post again once I've received correct part, and fixed it..

Cheers
Phil
1
FollowupID: 884394

Reply By: PhilDo - Wednesday, Nov 01, 2017 at 22:42

Wednesday, Nov 01, 2017 at 22:42
Hi Phil
Today I blew my D250S fuse F1 and probably the diode D13 too. I stupidly connected the battery incorrectly in my haste. Now I can't figure how to remove the 30A fuse without removing the board, thought the blade would just pull out.
Any help please and my hand is up for a diode if you still have some.
cheers
Phil

edit: Looks like D13 is a different type to D9. Still can't figure why the blade fuse doesn't come out. Didn't really want to remove the board if I don't need to.
AnswerID: 614698

Follow Up By: FourbyPhil - Saturday, Nov 04, 2017 at 09:12

Saturday, Nov 04, 2017 at 09:12
Hi PhilDo,

The fuse is soldered to the board..... Need to scrape off the waterproof wax first then you can free up the fuse...

Good luck with it.

Cheers
Phil
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FollowupID: 885427

Reply By: FourbyPhil - Saturday, Nov 04, 2017 at 09:09

Saturday, Nov 04, 2017 at 09:09
The fuse is soldered to the board..... Need to scrape off the waterproof wax first then you can free up the fuse...

Good luck with it.

Cheers
Phil
AnswerID: 614759

Reply By: PhilDo - Saturday, Nov 04, 2017 at 09:53

Saturday, Nov 04, 2017 at 09:53
Thanks Phil, feared as much.You'd think they would make the fuse easy to get at rather than having to pull the whole thing apart. The diode seems to be working. I'll probably replace the fuse with a removable blade.
AnswerID: 614762

Follow Up By: FourbyPhil - Sunday, Nov 05, 2017 at 01:25

Sunday, Nov 05, 2017 at 01:25
yeah why should changing a fuse void your warranty???
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FollowupID: 885460

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