Monitoring solar amps when using a DC to DC charger

Submitted: Friday, Oct 06, 2017 at 17:42

ThreadID: 135710 Views:6775 Replies:5 FollowUps:5

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Jacob P

Hello,

If you're using a DC to DC charger how would one monitor what the solar is doing? besides installing an expensive shunt style amp meter.

I'm wanting to install a DC to DC such as the Ctek or Projecta, i currently use a cheap solar regulator and monitor it with a cheap watt meter.

if i install DC to DC i'm concerned about how i would monitor the solar amps etc.

Correct me if i'm wrong but there's no point putting a watt meter between the solar panel and the DC to DC as this would be unregulated and not the same amps as whats coming out o the DC to DC into the battery?

Thanks in advance

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Reply By: Member - Bigfish - Friday, Oct 06, 2017 at 19:00

Friday, Oct 06, 2017 at 19:00

I have a redarc dc/dc 20 amp charging 2 x 130 amp agm batteries in rear tub of car. I also have an 80 watt solar panel connected to a quality solar reg and this is connected to the batteries. The solar is on 100% of the time and naturally the dc/dc only when car engine is running. 3 years like this and no problems whatso ever. I have a digital readout near the batteries and they are always at near 100% soc if I don't use the car fridge. No need to monitor as the digital voltmeter shows the rise in voltage when panel is doing its job.

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Follow Up By: duck - Saturday, Oct 07, 2017 at 13:10

Saturday, Oct 07, 2017 at 13:10

mine is set up about the same but more solar & the 40 amp 12v Redarc bcdc charger, plus 240 volt charger all hard wired in place & has the redarc monitor that shows what is going in from where e.g. Vehicle, Solar or 240 volt charger (it auto picks what is supplying the most power) & shows you on the monitor E.G. driving shows what the vehicle is putting in to the batteries, car stopped it shows how much solar is going in & if plugged in to 240v power the same, It will also show if any of the batteries are getting hot, normally a sign a battery is on its way out or the units regulator is faulty pumping too much power in
but I do run 2 systems & have more power than I should ever need 1 x 12v & 1 x 24v & have 360 amps in 12v batteries & 400amps in 24v & 240watts in 12v solar & 120 watts in 24v solar plus 3kva gen I must admit I hardly ever look at the monitors but I did notice once driving along that the 12v was getting solar pulled over to check & found I forgot to glug in the Anderson plug

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Follow Up By: Member - Bigfish - Saturday, Oct 07, 2017 at 14:01

Saturday, Oct 07, 2017 at 14:01

Duck...you have more power at your fingers than most of the Eastern states of Australia!....lol

Any relation to Elon Musk?

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Follow Up By: RMD - Saturday, Oct 07, 2017 at 19:20

Saturday, Oct 07, 2017 at 19:20

Duck
Perhaps you should talk to Jay the boss of SA. He thinks squillions of $ to Elon Musk is a way to cure his problems. Many little batteries called one big battery only makes SA RUN FOR 1 hour longer when required. Should be in Friday Funnies.
Your system is superior, get a job on the SA POWER advisory team.

DUCK FOR PREMIER.

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Follow Up By: duck - Monday, Oct 09, 2017 at 12:21

Monday, Oct 09, 2017 at 12:21

Guys I had to laugh
Vehicle is a Isuzu NPS 300 dual cab tray back with warrior conversion with a slide on camper that I built all in foam sandwich construction (I’m a boat builder)
Truck 24v = The power is for 2nd Start + Fwd 24v 15000lbs warn winch, Aft 24v 17500lbs runva winch,the 24v can also be switched to run stainless steel 180ltr draw fridge & freezer that is 12/24v, 12v to run camper etc.
Last year I was in SA I should have had a wind generator as it blowed the main power lines down! I was to go to kangaroo island earlier this year but the misses had a heart opp so hopping to go in November this year so I’ll take the jumper leads & tap into the mains & help you out (LOL)