Waeco CF50 temperature selection problem

Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 17:23
ThreadID: 135868 Views:11343 Replies:9 FollowUps:15
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Hi all, I have one of the older Waeco CF50 fridges, its the model with seven illuminated bars and no digital display for temperature setting.

The fridge works as it should with the exception that the temperature selection button has started playing up. Its sticking and on the odd occasion when it does work it jumps a number of bars in one go. The fridge still works but I'm pretty much stuck with a temperature in the middle of the scale.

I've take the cover off to expose the circuit board and every thing is clean and in good condition with no visible signs of corrosion etc. What is apparent is that the push button temp selection switch is temperamental.

I was wondering if any one had tried replacing the switch and where I might source a replacement?

I was also wondering if would be possible to incorporate a digital read out for the temperature selection and current operating temperature?

Olly
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Reply By: Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 17:50

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 17:50
Olly,

I had a similar problem on my Chinese generic fridge with a digital readout. The display would be intermittent, occasionally showing ambient instead of cabinet temp, and then the fridge wouldn't run because it thought ambient was the set temp.

There are two ribbon cables between the display unit and the controller board. One or both of the ribbon cable connectors had developed a bad contact. After removal and cleaning of both ends of both cables and reinserting a few times to clean the sockets the problem was fixed.

If you have a similar arrangement you might be able to investigate a similar remedy.

Cheers
FrankP

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Follow Up By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 17:58

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 17:58
Hi Frank, many thanks for the suggestions, unfortunately its a totally different design, there's no digital display and no ribbon cables
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Follow Up By: Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:22

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:22
Yeah, just thought there might be some cable connections you could wiggle.

Good luck
FrankP

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Follow Up By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:27

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:27
it was a good thought, I did lots of wiggling :0)
I also cleaned what I could with electronic contact cleaner
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Reply By: MickeyJ - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:19

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:19
I had the same problem and it turned out that the plunger that was attached to the membrane was binding, and it did not do it if the membrane (The bit you touch), was not on. Used a drill bit to make the hole the plunger goes through a little bigger and it has not played up since. (This was years ago if I sound a bit vague).

Hope that helps

Michael
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Follow Up By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 19:00

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 19:00
Thanks Michael, I had a similar thought and took the cover & membrane off so I could work the switch directly.

It didn't make much difference. Having the cover off did allow me to move the switch slightly sideways when pressing it but it was just as inconsistent as with the cover in place
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Follow Up By: MickeyJ - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 19:12

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 19:12
Mine would scroll through the temperature setting as it stayed slightly jammed down. Could be just a faulty switch on yours. Easy to replace if you are handy with a soldering iron?
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Reply By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:55

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 18:55
Unfortunately I can't see a way to edit my original post so I've posted again with the images

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Follow Up By: MickeyJ - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 19:13

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 19:13
You can get those switches at Jaycar
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Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 20:00

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 20:00
Also available in circuit boards of old VHS players and F&P washers. Most are almost unused and so if used out of an old Samrt drive washer of VHS unit it will do the job. Sharp soldering tip required though.
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Follow Up By: GG7777 - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 20:36

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 20:36
Ooops
Have the exact same fridge and my solve for the same problem ( scrolling through lights ) was to remove the cover as you have done, tear membrane off, then remove all pins under it, replace membrane, then replace cover but not the two screws that hold it down.To alter temperature, I lift the lid, remove the cover, adjust temp (using buttons directly) then replace cover and lid.
Mine started this problem in 2006 when only 6/8 months old while on trip to Cape York, it has since had a good look at a very large portion of Australia and never missed a beat.
Murray
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Follow Up By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 21:40

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 21:40
MickeyJ & RMD
Those are both top tips and just what I was hoping for, many thanks indeed

Especially good news as I discovered only last night that Jaycar are now shipping to international destinations

I can handle the soldering, I'm just not sure what to order. Any idea of the correct part number on the Jaycar site? Even if I saw it I wouldn't know if it was the correct one.

The only thing better would be if some one said they'd done the same transplant and that the patient had made a full recovery :0)

GG7777
I'm not sure what you mean by "then remove all pins under it"
i.e I'm not sure what pins you're referring to. Its the plural that's tripping me up.

Under the membrane there's a single plunger (pin?) that operates temp selection by pressing on a single switch

With the cover and plunger removed and pressing directly on the switch I get exactly the same issue as I do with the cover on

The temp changes by repeatedly pressing the switch circled in red.
each press raises the temp until you get all the bars lit, another press starts it back at one bar lit. So just one plunger / pin for that function

All the other functions are working as they should
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Reply By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 21:32

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 21:32
.
Hi Ooops,

Those switches come in a variety of sizes with differing pin pitches and differing actuator plunger diameters and lengths. Jaycar do stock some but not all.... you may be lucky or not.

Your problem may be the switch as they are rather fragile. But another possibility is the membrane that covers the switches. These membranes become stiff with age, losing their flexibility. When that happens they do not allow the switch to recover its "off" position after pressing thus holding the switch pin the pressed position. Check to see if that is happening to you. There are then two options...... replace the membrane or slightly shorten the switch plunger by filing to allow it to recover to the "off" position. Don't go too far with the filing though.

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 22:37

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 22:37
Allan,
another couple of top tips, many thanks

I would never have considered the membrane as a possible cause, or the battle field fix, so that's some thing new I've learned which is always a good thing

The switch is problematic even with the cover off and pressed directly. I experience exactly the same problem whether its covered or exposed, so I don't think messing with it is going to improve it any.

As it happens the membrane has a tiny split over the opposite end of the pcb so I'll replace it

I think I've located the correct switch, I'll post the info above with the earlier posts
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Reply By: Ooops - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 22:42

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 22:42
I think I've sourced a suitable switch

3.5mm SPST Micro Tactile Switch CAT.NO: SP0602
https://www.jaycar.com.au/3-5mm-spst-micro-tactile-switch/p/SP0602

Less that AUS$1 for the switch but I'm guessing AUS$50 odd to get it to me
and I'm not complaining one bit, if it works it'll be relatively cheap and straight forward fix

I'll have a mooch around locally in the electronics stores but if all else fails I'll be on to good old Jaycar
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Reply By: Member - Mark (Tamworth NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 23:23

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2017 at 23:23
Olly
I had the same problem with the same model fridge (mine's 15 years old)
I just took it to a Waeco repair agent in my home town, didn't cost a great deal to get fixed (yeah may have been $50-70).
I asked the Waeco repair agent whether he could retrofit the newer Temp control panels to our model and he said that it wasn't easily possible
I find a Jaycar $20-30 wireless remote temperature unit is more versatile, in terms of having the display in the front of the vehicle when the fridge is in the rear of the vehicle or in a camper trailer.
Mark
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Follow Up By: Ooops - Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 00:53

Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 00:53
Thanks Mark

Which Jaycar unit would you recommend?
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Follow Up By: Member - Mark (Tamworth NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 07:24

Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 07:24
sorry I couldn't tell you any more than they called it a "Weather Station" with an internal and external (the remote sensor) temperature display on the display, about the size of two matchboxes
I also use it for monitoring the temperature when I'm making y Home Brew in an outside shed
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Reply By: Malcom M - Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 07:42

Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 07:42
The PCB's are available as a spare part in Oz.
Do a google and you'll find some.
AnswerID: 614971

Follow Up By: Ooops - Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 08:01

Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 08:01
Thanks Malcom, I've seen them.

Where ever its viable I always prefer to go for a home repair rather a complete assembly. My bit towards looking after the planet.

Of course its not always worth it and there have been the odd time or two when the home fix cost more than an entire replacement but I choose not to focus on those :o)

As the part is $1 I'm going to give it a go
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Reply By: Ooops - Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 08:05

Wednesday, Nov 15, 2017 at 08:05
Thank you all so much for your contributions.

I'm now pretty sure that I have the replacement part identified.
I'll post back when its fitted and let you know how it worked out

AnswerID: 614972

Reply By: Ooops - Thursday, Nov 16, 2017 at 22:21

Thursday, Nov 16, 2017 at 22:21
Hi all,

I just wanted to share the latest with you.

A gentleman on another forum suggested applying a drop of WD40 to the switch, he recovered his switch from the same problem and three years later its still going strong.

I've tried it on mine and its made a terrific difference. I now get an occasional failure as opposed to the 49 failures in 50 pushes or worse that I had before.

As its not 100% reliable my OCD won't let me consider mine fixed so I'll still be ordering a replacement switch.

However I thought it was a brilliant tip and well worth sharing
AnswerID: 615022

Follow Up By: Grizzle - Saturday, Nov 18, 2017 at 08:43

Saturday, Nov 18, 2017 at 08:43

I put one of these on my fridge. Around $20 Mark from eBay. Just search for digital temperature controller. Wire it in to the power cord of the fridge. The supplied sensor sits on the ridge between the fridge and crisper section. Set the fridge emergency switch so the fridge bypasses the controls and runs all the time.
Fit the controller in a little box on the lid of your fridge or mount it anywhere really.
Very easy to fit and then you can just dial in the temp you want. I also have an Engel that I have fitted it to.

You can return your fridge to normal just by unplugging it.

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Follow Up By: Ooops - Saturday, Nov 18, 2017 at 17:40

Saturday, Nov 18, 2017 at 17:40
Grizzle thanks for the instructions and photos, very helpful
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