Ford Ranger advise

Sounds like they should have this done.
http://www.lovellsauto.com.au/product12.php
GVM increases to 3500 & GCM goes to 7000 (currently 3200 & 6000).
Before anyone says that this can't be done, please read all of Lovells details and argue with them not me. There is also a more complete document floating around on some other Forum/Topic but I don't have it on this computer but will find it if wanted.
This does not take away the arguments about loading a twin cab ute with so much weight behind the axle and the possibility of bending the chassis.
BTW, my kit is on order but I'm really only interested in the GVM part as the van is well under needing the GCM part.

Sounds like this vehicle is going to be carrying a lot of weight. You can upgrade most components but you cannot upgrade the most important component which is the chassis. Compare a Ranger chassis with a D-Max chassis there is a big difference.

Chris

Are you asking for advice or advising us. Not sure there.
With a DUAL wheel setup it will stress the chassis if they are on the back of the canopy. Bending of chassis may occur if the suspension ever bottoms over dips.
I can’t see how connecting a fridge will cause limp mode. You don’t know what the other bloke has done to his so dismiss that comment.
The Smart, ( read dumb) alternator feature which hardly charges the battery should be switched off by the dealer before anything else.

Too much weight, read leverage of the weight bending chassis, is to be researched before adding a pod which may contain real heavy stuff.
If going off road, the rear suspension should be made to hold the vehicle higher so there is sufficient travel to absorb the mass movement over rough stuff without bottoming. The shocks would have to be improved too.

I'm thinking with the extra weight they will have issues with the rear suspension if not the front as well. What options are available for upgrading this?
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You could be right. Weight is one thing but if any chassis damage occurs it will be because of mass and the forces imposed on the chassis as the far end of it has to suddenly lift the mass sitting on it or stop it suddenly when it falls.

The only suspension upgrade that will fix that is the one that picks up heavy items down the back and moves them further forward. The aftermarket companies are still working on that one.

If the car is a dual cab and there is just two of them traveling on their own then a lot of loading problems can be solved by using the back seat area. That area has been designed to carry three large people which means a load of close to 300 kg. This can't be ignored when loading dual cabs up to their maximum.

This may involve using an engineer approved bolted in cradle of some kind that could carry one or maybe both of the wheels plus the batteries and a lot of other things.

Another point regarding load is manufacturers usually recommend reducing loads as the road conditions deteriorate. The maximums are for good sealed roads only.

I had a ball driving one of these on mountain tracks in the north of Victoria during my National Service days. 6X6 Despite their size and weight, they were rated at 2 1/2 tons maximum by Studebaker, not the Army. That was the maximum they could reliably carry in the worst conditions they were ever likely to encounter.

The same restrictions apply to cars in off road conditions today and the number that have broken chassis, axle housings, axles, wheel studs etc in the bush would suggest the manufacturers are not kidding.

If they can, go single or space cab
Two spares is going to be heavy but 2 batteries is overkill. Get a solar panel
Most of the Ranger electrical problems have sorted out in the latest model, or so
Ford tells me. I would go DC-DC charger though
Exploding into flames may be an issue if you go offroad.
No matter what anyone tells you a GVM upgrade will be a minefield if a warranty claim comes up
This is my D-Max setup. All under standard GVM

Get onto newranger.net and talk to actual owners. On the px2 you are looking at the dealer can enable ‘dual battery mode’ which brings the alternator back to a constant 14.5v so you can decide if you want a dcdc or standard isolator setup. Aluminium canopies are literally everywhere for them. If you are planning on carrying significant weight permanently you will definitely need springs and shocks. Mine is old man emu front and rear. I recommend it.
Mine is 5 yo this year and 120kms. It carries load and tows commercial equipment and play gear. No problems. Don’t worry about bending anything unless you are going outside factory capacities. Only idiots bend cars.

This sounds like my exact build with a base model cab chassis with the exception, mine is a 6 speed manual, and only one extra battery. What's nice with the base model is it comes with vinyl floors, and still has a factory rear electrical diff lock

I have documented my setup over on 4x4Earthhttp://4x4earth.com/forum/index.php?threads/my-mk2-ford-ranger-2016.40913/

An example of what I have documented
* TJM XGS Suspension Lift Upgrade
* The style of bullbar used
* The Dual battery setup with solar setup
* Custom Canopy Alloy with side Gull Wing doors
* The Winch setup
* Tyre selection
* The high clearance tow bar -- why not to go with the factory tow bar
* The alternator setup and where to find information
* The Stereo and android navigation upgrade
* plus more and feel free to ask questions

I have to say it's the best 4WD vehicle I have ever owned, done plenty of towing of a tandem caravan, plenty of grade 5 4wd trips with the Topend 4WD Club.

Cheers

I'm surprised no members of the EO GOF club haven't picked up on the " advise V advice " in the heading.. lol

Happy and safe travels

Gazz

To cope with the inbuilt fuel saving restrictions of the 'Smart Alternator' fitted to this, and many other vehicles today, all you need is the correct Redarc battery management system that has been designed to take account of this issue. Their website explains it all.

Have seen heaps of photos of Rangers and other vehicles with broken chassis. Weight is an issue and upgrading suspension is not the issue. One of the reasons I purchased an Amarok is the strength of the chassis.

Some pretty good, dual cab camper ADVICE, from the EXPERIENCED bloke, in the link below ....

https://www.campertraileraustralia.com.au/features/1508/why-ute-chassis-break

One of major overlooked issues with campers on utes is the additional WEIGHT carried at HEIGHT on the chassis.
Weight carried at an increased height only adds to the leverage exerted by that weight on the chassis rails.

Hit an unexpected sunken culvert, a washout, or even just a big dip, with a camper on a ute - and it places a huge additional strain on the chassis rails.

Cheers, Ron.