1982 Coaster voltage drop to ignition switch.

Thanks for the reply. Have metered after the fusible link and I have 12.84V. It appears that the issue is somewhere in the dash as I am getting 12.84V at 1 point in the dash but other than that only 3+V.
Dave

If just using a meter but no load, even a bit of carbon can show battery voltage to a test point but will not carry any appreciable load. Unless the fusible links are physically checked or load tested it may not show the true picture. Just the first step to elimination I suppose.

PS How many fusible links are there? Usually more than one and they both will be supplying voltage to different places in the loom.

Would it be feasible to bypass them, purely as a test, for a moment to help identify if they are at fault? That way if voltage is then good it shows the FL's as faulty.

yes, That is why I suggested the large wattage globe or a compressor (swithced on of course) as a higher current passing device but will act as a limiter if there is a short circuit. ie, the globe would glow FULL BRIGHT or the compressor would begin RUNNING.

A compressor or similar load would allow the system to operate or at least try and operate. It should allow the starter circuit to be activated.

For fault finding in fused circuits I have a blown fuse with two heavy wires soldered to the top of the fuse legs. Then I can match a load, ie, a 100w if need be to see if the load globe is simply being shorted to full bright ,ie, Fault present, OR the circuit is running with it's normal resistance of the appliance in series with that load globe and the item will either operate or try to at least.

Just replacing fuses all the time is hit and miss. If fault is not easliy found then it is a miss and another blown globe every time.

Thanks for the suggestions Ron. I am finding numerous connections of twisted wires wrapped in insulating tape. As I find them I am redoing them or if possible replacing the dodgy wire. I have found one fusible link at the battery. According to the wiring diagram I have located there may be 2 others. Now to find them....

Although your battery reads 12'8 volts it maybe stuffed and as soon as a load is put on it it drops it's guts. Try turning on your headlights, this will tell you if the battery is us.

Good thought. Headlights are fine. Even when I switch in the 2 extra storage batteries there is no improvement.

Seto - In the link below is a Coaster ignition/glow plug circuitry diagram. Unfortunately, it has no date or model listed, but it may assist.

Also, unfortunately, the diagram is half in Japanese, which doesn't help - but it does have a lot of English abbreviations and a few English words, so it can be figured out.

The batteries are in the lower left corner, "ALT" is alternator, "FL" is fusible link (in the wire), "AM1" and "AM2" are typically a slow-blow fusible link fuse, that is in the fuse boxes (Google "Toyota AM1 fuse" for images of what they look like). These AM1 and AM2 fuses are typically 30 or 50 amps.

Ignition switch is in upper left corner (you'll see "IG" for ignition, "ST1" and "ST2" for starter wires, etc, etc.
The wiring marked "M/T" is the manual transmission neutral lockout switch.
The wiring is colour-coded, and the Toyota wire colour codes are as follows;

B = Black, W = White, BR = Brown, L = Blue, V = Violet, SB = Sky Blue, R = Red, G = Green, LG = Light Green, P = Pink, Y = Yellow, GR = Grey, O = Orange.
The first letter is the wire colour, the second letter is the stripe colour. Thus, L-Y indicates a blue wire with a yellow stripe.
A symbol with two arrow darts indicates a male bayonet connector.

Coaster glow plug wiring diagram

Look for dirty or corroded fuse blades or fuse box connectors, half-melted fuses, or pinched wiring where the wiring goes through areas where it can be squashed against sharp metal. This can cause a short circuit or a blown fuse or fusible link.

Cheers, Ron.

and - to the OP - if you are going bush, make sure you have spares (yeah, obvious I know, but not everybody makes sure before leaving).

Totally agree Zippo. I think I carry enough spares in general to fix a convoy.LOL
Hate to think how much extra weight I am carrying. Spare bulbs (all types), fuses (all types), bolts, nuts, wheel studs, wire, connectors and the list goes on.

Yep HKB will do. My first problem with the fuse box was identifying which was which as there is no cover or markings and it was a different layout to the one in the Toyota workshop manual. Think I have them all sorted now.

Dave