Solar setup issue

Is the new battery the same capacity as the old - ie same amp-hours?

Hi Dee, the 95 amp/hr battery has 5% less capacity than the original and that is enough to bring the overnight voltage voltage down approx 12 volts. However, you say you are using less connected load, then I would suspect the battery is not getting fully charged and suspect the Recarc unit. Where is the Redarc located in relation to the pane and the battery; at or near the battery is best.

Do you have a manual for the Redarc? If so , check the charging characteristics , I.E., Bulk Charge Voltage and Float voltage.

Cheers
Jon

Please elaborate on the battery was only charging to 12.4V, how long was the battery left standing before your checking the voltage?

HI Dee- may I suggest you do a little sleuthing. You need to establish a couple of things- how much the fridge is drawing, how much the solar is putting out via the redarc, and is your voltage reading of the batter actually accurate .This will define your problem . Doc

Hi Dee, I think your 100ah battery is a little small to run an 80 Ltr. Fridge, you would be better with at least 120 ah. There are a number of guides on line that can help you determine the correct size & type of battery for you fridge. Have you chosen the correct type of battery.

You don't mention what brand your fridge is, or how old. These two factors have a lot to do with how efficiently your battery will run your fridge. Is it an adsorption or compressor fridge. Compressor fridges are much more efficient.Check the seals on the fridge door/lid. Ensure you have enough ventilation space around the fridge.

Macca.

hi
Standing voltage will be a little less with the current Century WET flooded than an AGM type
For a 80ltr 1 amp per hr consumption would be considered low =24 amps in a 24hr period . In hot weather at cold temp setting 75ah /24hr period would not be unheard of .

FYI 40lt Engle etc use around 40ah in24hrs when worked hard low temp setting and hot weather. Also well proven that 65lt fridges use 50-70ah when worked hard

200watt solar and 120ah batt min. would be an improvement .
Ideally 300-400watt and 200ah batt min

If the fridge is plugged in during the day, why can't you have it plugged in during the night too?

Have you tested the "actual" run time of the fridge and how much power it uses while running, ie, the actual AH it really does use. Those results are often far in excess of the stated theoretical achieved by the factory. That will mean the battery you have is insufficcient in storage ability, ie more batter needed.
The best idea is to have a system which can charge the battery AND run the fridge, ie be charging the battery while the fridge is not running and also enough to catch up the overnight loss.
80L fridge and small battery and not quite enough solar to do it

If the system can't keep the battery amount charged then there is a deficiency.

You mentioned while travelling it works, that is possibly because the vehicle is doing the major/bulk amount of the charging and the solar is only topping up the system when stopped.

To only use 1 ah to 1.5 ah your fridge must be very efficient indeed. Especially being an 80 litre on. A 40 litre Engel can't even approach that low usage. I would suspect your fridge is using at leat double what you think it is, Maybe more.
I use a 40litre Engel and 32L Waeco as a freezer, freezers use much more I know but the power requirement is vastly larger than your stated requirements for the 80 litre.

HI
Dee78
A watt meter can tell u the consumption Ebay 10-20$
Expect results as everybody has stated to be higher than makers mention by far , in aver. to hot conditions .

There are many online comparisons that back this up .

A 40ltr test is on Camper trailer.org