Isuzu M UX

Submitted: Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 09:42
ThreadID: 136990 Views:6923 Replies:13 FollowUps:16
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We just did the Simpson and NT and SA over three weeks. Ours was well set up, but My husband was saying that cars today are so complicated, even when a light comes on, such as check engine, you usually have no idea what it is. Ours was making a very high pitched noise from front right wheel or near enough, when it was cold and slow. Once we got moving, it would go. Took it into Alice Springs to Isuzu and they said not to worry, it may have been dirt etc near the wheel bearing, as we did go though some very muddy sections on the QAA line. Also 3 k from home, it got stuck in 3rd gear!! Imagine that happening out in the wide blue yonder!! A bit stressful. Since being cleaned it has righted itself. Still my sister has the same car and theirs just stopped the other day, with no power. Again it righted itself. How can we trust these new cars when a light comes on, that tells you stuff all most of the time. We are experienced outback travellers I may add. We are not new at this, just a car 12months old, we obviously thought was fool proof! Please someone enlighten us with some ideas. Also our packing technique was extremely floored. What worked in a Subaru, does not work in a bigger car. I think we need to get to know it a little better. Still it performed beautifully in the desert and on rough roads especially with larger tyres and steel rims. It also had a lift done. Well set up.
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Reply By: Shaker - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 09:49

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 09:49
It is a worry, that is why I still have my 2006 Prado & my mate has kept his 2001 4.2TD Patrol! It is all very well when they say they it will get you out of trouble in ‘limp home mode’, but doubtful if that will get you over sand dunes.
AnswerID: 620177

Follow Up By: Members Pa & Ma. - Thursday, Jul 19, 2018 at 13:17

Thursday, Jul 19, 2018 at 13:17
We agree & this is why we still have our 80 series Toyota.
These modern cars, you can't understand or fix without all the computerised diagnosis equipment they need to understand the problem.
The out back mechanics haven't got them.
It worries us, the way the people concerned are trying to make us upgrade to new cars, we can't afford 2 cars & we love going outback on holidays.
Just imagine, non functioning electric windows in a dust storm in Birdsville!.or in the middle of the sand dunes on the Canning S.R.

Take care, safe travels, Ma.
FollowupID: 892619

Reply By: Julie S2 - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:16

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:16
I agree, just not sure where to go from here. We are getting older and things are getting just a little bit harder for us. Like getting stuff off the roof for instance and getting fuel into the car. Even with a ladder it is not that easy. After doing the Simpson over 20 times, I want to go to different places, but try telling my husband that!! I mean this is a big country, and there is a lot to see. The Cape is on the books for next year, but do we trust a newish car to do this? Stick with the older easier to fix ones. We had a Nissan Navara with us that had an air pipe split from fuel filter to carby, but it was fixable with duct tape and held well for the rest of the trip. They wanted $500 in Alice to order the part, and that did not include fitting it. Still going with the duct tape! Makes you wonder.
AnswerID: 620179

Reply By: garrycol - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:02

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:02
You get with the times and buy the relevant test equipment and include it in your tool kit. It will tell what the engine light means and can reset various things to help with the diagnosis.
AnswerID: 620180

Reply By: RMD - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:02

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:02
Julie S2
Since you have been travelling in dry areas the outermost seal where the CV shaft goes into the frant axle assembly gets dry at the lip of the seal.
It squeals if not lubricated enough. VERY VERY common of modern vehicles.
Getting underneath and holding the outermost CV seal lip edge and spraying some Lanolin or spray grease in there will provide many KMs of travel without any worries. Do not use WD40 rubbish in there, it doesn't lubricate well at all and dries up far too quickly.
"Dirt near the wheel bearing", gee that is accurate diagnosis isn't it? since the noise happens when the wheel turns, any drovers dog should be able to determine it is near the wheel, which has bearings. If dirt was actually in near the bearings they wouldn't last long and a recovery would be happening for you, unless you carry grease, new seal and new bearings as a precaution.

Again because you have been offroad, with any modern vehicle there is a myriad of wires and connections underneath. If any water ingress or dust and slight corrosion happens in a connector or it is loose, it is likely a fault will develop. Seeing you have cleaned it and 3rd gear works again by itself only means the connecting wires have been restored until the fault happens again. Perhaps becoming familiar with what is under there and sometimes cleaning the connectors plugs by unlpugging and replacing them, you may find one isn't quite right. This is exactly what a dealer or mechanic will do, IF they really look for a fault.
If a fault happens out in the wild blue yonder, it will be better if you know something about the vehicle. No you don't have to be very technical or a mechanic, but women during wartime made gun barrels to exacting satandards and solved Nazi communication codes,etc etc, so the capability is there.

Many modern vehicle suffer from production line syndrome. Some stop suddenly because a vital earthing section of the wiring isn't touching the body or battery negative side. Most are a ring terminal which is bolted onto a paint surface and the bolt screwed into a painted hole,(gotta love production paint being electro applied) which can intermittently suddenly not connect and when cooled down, it connects again and fixes itself. If that happens, you find the many bolted ends and clean the connection. Often dealer service people undo things and replace, during their investigations and it runs again, but they can't tell you what they did. You can do it too.
When you say your packing was "floored", did you mean flawed by any chance. It all sits on the floor after all.
I think you own one of the most reliable vehicles available on the market, no vehicle is without some issues though, nothing is perfect.
Foolproof only means it resists fools, which I don't think applies here.

You could own a Toyoto or Fraud or Holden or Nissan and enjoy their current known problems, horrendous.
AnswerID: 620181

Follow Up By: Member - silkwood - Wednesday, Jul 18, 2018 at 21:06

Wednesday, Jul 18, 2018 at 21:06
"but women during wartime made gun barrels to exacting satandards and solved Nazi communication codes,etc etc, so the capability is there."

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Reply By: 9900Eagle - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:34

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:34
Just a couple of things.

The squeal would be the same on an old vehicle or a new one if it was a small pebble, also was the vehicle a manual or auto.

Get yourselves a scan gauge or ultra gauge and just leave it plugged into the obd2 port. If a light comes up it should throw a fault code and if you have the list of codes you can can at least see what is supposed to be wrong. It normally will only point you in the direction of the fault but it could also need more diagnoses to find it.

You can then either seek assistance from a dealer if you have communications by giving the fault code and they maybe able to point you in the right direction. You also can write down the code and then try to clear it.

AnswerID: 620184

Reply By: Athol W1 - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 13:44

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 13:44

As has been said by others get yourself a Scangauge11 or similar so that you can read the fault codes that may appear from time to time, and this tool will also allow you to clear those codes.

The high pitched noise that you experienced coming from the right front wheel I first experienced in the days of the HQ Holdens in 1971, they were renowned for it, and it is nothing more than the grease seal being dry (lacking lubricant) and nothing to be alarmed about, simply by spraying a small amount of lubricant onto the seal is sufficient to rectify/eliminate the noise but a more permanent fix is to have the wheel bearings repacked making sure that there is sufficient grease applied to the seal.

Unfortunately to avoid the problems associated with the modern vehicles fitted with computers it would be necessary to go back to vehicles built prior to the mid to late 1970's, as that is how long it has been since vehicles did not contain some form of computerised system for their BASIC operation, and even further back if you include such things as the car radio.

With the Isuzu you have one of the most reliable vehicles currently available, and should the computerised systems have some sort of glitch when you are in some out of the way location you can always just remove a battery cable for about 1 minuite and this will reset the computer to the factory settings, the vehicle may drive a little differently or even seem eratic for a short time after this whilst the computer relearns some of the individual ideosyncracies of the vehicle.

AnswerID: 620187

Follow Up By: Julie S2 - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 14:03

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 14:03
Yes that is a good idea and worth trying. Computers seem to break down when you need them most., Then coming home to a fridge we forgot to shut down the ice maker on and it is also now stuffed. Been too long since we went away and are out of practice. LOL
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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 15:31

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 15:31
The squeal isn’t near wheel bearings in an Mux but on the inside face of the axle assembly. Other side to where the wheel bearings are. Can happen on both sides at the cv entry to axle housing.
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Reply By: Julie S2 - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 13:57

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 13:57
I think the thing is getting to know it better and finding out how it all works etc It has been good getting feed back on this. It sort of makes it more bearable knowing we are not alone. We want the best from our vehicle and want to use it what it was built for. Not keeping it to run around town etc. The packing thing I meant was, we simply used boxes and bags and not enough thought went into it. Our fault entirely not the car. Need a much better system, but having 3 people in the car only allows a certain amount of room. We took back seats out and left just a single and middle seat in for our Grand daughter. To set it up properly would be great, but you need to get rid of seating more or less permanently, and fit it with drawers, as a friend did to his. We just cant eliminate the seats, as we will most likely have a third person for some time to come. so many good ideas. Incidentally a friend travelling with us on this trip in his toyota hilux, did a rear wheel bearing and we followed him into Coober Pedy. Things happen out back . Rough roads and water and dust etc. Have to expect it.
AnswerID: 620188

Follow Up By: Member - Scrubby (VIC) - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 19:23

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 19:23
Julie this Isuzu forum is also very helpful.

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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:54

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:54
That site can be helpful but you have to know what’s is what, to sort out the real info. Too many post internet addresses for you to peruse, because they can search with mr googles help but unless you understand the concepts involved it is rarely much use to non tech persons.
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Reply By: Member - Mark C (QLD) - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:31

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:31
Yes modern cars a complicated. We were in limp home mode (2010 Challenger) due to a blocked intercooler because of the EGR and no catch can. I have had a Scangauge 11 for 10 years and thankfully was able to clear the faults and resume normal travel. We were half way between Innaminka and Birdsville.
Mark And Helen QLD
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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:50

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:50
An EGR valve and no catch can won’t block an intercooler. If the intercooler was blocked, a reset of any code can’t clear an intercooler airflow problem.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mark C (QLD) - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:58

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 20:58
The air flow to the inlet was non existing and therefore the sensor on the inlet was failing. The blocked intercooler happened twice in 150k and both times Mitsubishi cleaned it and said it was the oil grade i was using. It was serviced at a Mitsubishi dealer so figure that out.
I was still under powered because of the lack of inlet air but clearing the code took the car out of limp mode and allowed me to continue for 10 minutes then fault code and clear. Did this for 150km. Intercooler hose was split first then fixed that and had the other issue.
Sold the challenger on return and have an Everest now.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Tuesday, Jul 17, 2018 at 09:19

Tuesday, Jul 17, 2018 at 09:19
Oil in the blow by gasses from the sump always goes through all intercoolers on every vehicle fitted with an intercooler. The speed of the airflow ensures passage of any oil. The oil is a fluid and can't block the intercooler.
Not sure how they determined the intercooler was blocked. Never believe a dealer response as gospel on the subject.

The crap oil, (dealers don't use the best anyway) still won't block an intercooler, BUT the EGR valve may gum up as a result of the oil and that will throw a code and require cleaning or replacement if faulty. That is likely what the problem was. You just can't reset a code to clear an intercooler, not possible to do it.
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Reply By: splits - Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 21:28

Monday, Jul 16, 2018 at 21:28
Don't let modern electrical systems worry you too much. They are not all that new anyway. The first car to use a computer was in 1968. They were in just about everything by the end of the 70s and early 80s. .

I started working in the trade in 1961. Electrical problems were a daily occurrence, particularly in ignition systems. I worked on countless computerised cars before changing careers and I can not remember ever having to fix a fault with any of them. That does not mean it can't happen but it is rare..

I have owned my electronic Hilux for eleven years and 140,000 ks and have never had a problem. It has been through plenty of desert sand and deep water crossings in the VHC.

The best way to find out how everything works is to buy the genuine manufacturers workshop manuals. They may be on DVDs only these days. The books you see in the auto accessory shops don't go far enough in many areas.

The flashing lights indicate a fault number. The manual tells you what part is covered by that number. The fault will be in either the computer, the sensor or the wiring.for that circuit. There will be a simple series of tests to carry out to see where it is and how to fix it. If your car is noted for having a problem in an electrical part then carry a spare. Carrying a spare sensor or whatever is no different from carrying a spare ignition coil years ago.

The wiring in modern cars can look like a nightmare but when you look at each individual circuit, they are no more complex than cars fifty years ago. The difference is there is a lot more of them all bunched together.

When you are driving in remote areas, the most common break downs are usually caused by the driver. Overloading, particularly when combined with excessive speed on rough roads, breaks chassis, wheel bearings, axle housings and wheels. It can overheat auto transmissions and engines. Lifted suspensions along with speed and heavy roof racks have caused many roll overs.

If you look through the archives of net forums you will find many tales of woe about problems in the bush but you will have to look long and hard to find one that has been caused by modern electronics.
AnswerID: 620196

Reply By: Sigmund - Saturday, Jul 21, 2018 at 16:08

Saturday, Jul 21, 2018 at 16:08
That's the first MUX or DMAX I've heard of just stopping.
Heard of a few axles breaking but still allowing limited progress.
As for fitting larger rims it's not necessary or advisable in my book - it's extra mass placing greater demands on the suspension and brakes.
AnswerID: 620271

Follow Up By: 9900Eagle - Saturday, Jul 21, 2018 at 16:38

Saturday, Jul 21, 2018 at 16:38
Sigmund my sons 2015 d-max has stopped twice in the last year for no reason. No abnormal driving or conditions plus no codes.

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Follow Up By: Sigmund - Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 05:13

Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 05:13
Ok, that makes 2.
20,000 MU-Xs and DMaxs were sold in 2017.
Given the complexity of vehicles these days you'd have to say they're mostly highly reliable. I could go on at length about the build quality of the first wheels I owned in the 70s.
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Follow Up By: 9900Eagle - Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 10:36

Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 10:36
Who's saying anything about build quality. You said you hadn't head anything about the engine just stopping and now you have heard of two that have done it.

If you wish to tell us all about the build quality of your first car please do so but I have no idea what that has to do with the price of tea in China.

I have no issues with isuzus at all, you just got an answer re hearing about any just stopping.

FollowupID: 892677

Follow Up By: Sigmund - Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 17:45

Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 17:45
OP: "just a car 12 months old, we obviously thought was fool proof! Please someone enlighten us with some ideas"
FollowupID: 892689

Follow Up By: Ron N - Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 18:01

Sunday, Jul 22, 2018 at 18:01
If you scroll about 2/3rds of the way down the following Product Review link page, to "Jeans" post, you'll find three D-Max owners having problems with the D-Max just stopping, "for apparently no reason".

Product Review - Isuzu D-Max

There is always a reason for an engine cutting out - and it appears that the D-Max fuel rail sensor is prone to getting water or dirt (or both) in it, thus causing the fuel supply to be cut off.

It appears that a poor sealing boot may be the source of the problem, and it also appears that there is a modified boot for the sensor, to try and prevent the problem from happening.

Cheers, Ron.

FollowupID: 892691

Follow Up By: Les - PK Ranger - Wednesday, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:05

Wednesday, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:05
"it appears that the D-Max fuel rail sensor is prone to getting water or dirt (or both) in it"

Easy answer there is to ensure better reliability, get an aftermarket secondary fuel filtration system . . . goes for all makes though in reality, anyone can get a bad fuel dose outback, and most are common rail now, prone to problems with dirty fuel.

With nearly 180k on the Ranger odo, I worry a bit about the tdi system having problems, injectors, pump, seals, all can go without warning, and if you're remote, well it could cost a packet to both get out, and get fixed stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Mind you it's running like a Swiss timepiece at the moment, best it's ever been with power, smoothness, and economy, even from when new before mods.
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Reply By: OutBack Wanderers - Saturday, Jul 21, 2018 at 22:41

Saturday, Jul 21, 2018 at 22:41
When I picked up my slide-on from Eden, for the next 13 hours, squeak, squeak, squeak, squeak, squeak, it drove me batty>
I thought it was coming from the steering wheel as it seemed to stop when turning the wheel, only to start squeaking again.

When finally got home, I checked under the body, nothing, I made a point with Mazda service ppl, they couldn't work out where either, one suggested whilst they had the wheel in pieces to insert the cruise control, they'd lubricate any or all things that would make it squeak.

Well, picked it up and not more than 100 mts down the road, it started again, I felt like ramming it into a pole.

When it came up for a wash and chamois, I notice the radio aerial above the door just touching the bottom of the fibreglass slide-on, your kidding me, no way, can't be, your f******* joking,

just pushed the aerial in a quarter of an inch then started tearing my hair out whilst banging my head against the brick wall

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Reply By: Candace S. - Wednesday, Jul 25, 2018 at 09:36

Wednesday, Jul 25, 2018 at 09:36
Maybe things are different in Australia, but the code readers sold to consumers here do not read everything. And as I have found out, even dealers who have all the diagnostic equipment sometimes can't figure things out...

I've had two late-model vehicles with problems dealers couldn't fix after multiple attempts. In the first case, the vehicle was registered in California so that state's consumer-friendly "lemon law" bailed me out. But this time I don't know how things are going to turn out.

Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll figure out why my Stability Control and Anti-lock Brake System warning lights come on intermittently. (Oh, and the anti-lock braking itself activates when it shouldn't.) So far the dealer has had three tries at it, and changed various parts. But just today I saw those lights pop on briefly. One or more faulty sensors? A wiring issue? A faulty computer?

A few years ago I was on a trip in southern Utah. A dozen or so vehicles were in the group. We stopped for lunch one day, and afterward one of the vehicles wouldn't start. Someone ended up driving a 600+ km roundtrip to a dealer to get a part. An ignition switch module or whatever its called. At any rate, the part wasn't "plug and play", and the vehicle had to be towed to the dealer. IIRC because the chipped key, ignition switch, and computer all needed to be programmed together.

That's when I first started to think modern vehicles are too complex (or even fragile) to take out in the "boondocks." My experiences with my own two vehicles have reinforced that view.
AnswerID: 620331

Follow Up By: Ron N - Wednesday, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:44

Wednesday, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:44
Candace - Spot on, the KISS principle has worked well for centuries. The whole original idea behind 4x4's was a robust, very basic, simple vehicle that could put up with horribly adverse conditions of salt water, snow and ice, mud, and dust, that just kept churning on, regardless.

One looks at the conditions the little WIllys/Ford Jeeps put up with during WW2 and one wonders what a current 4x4 would perform like, under similar conditions? Very poorly, I'd have to say.

One of the greatest problems with modern electronics on vehicles is the lack of readily available information on how they operate and interact.
And interaction between electronic components is where the problems start.

You only need a dirty or faulty wiring harness connector, a pinched wire, or a failed sensor - and the entire system breaks down because the ECU will not operate due to a perceived "outside-of-defined-parameters" situation.

Often, those defined programming parameters are too narrow or restrictive, causing warning signals at best, and total failure at worst.

I can remember a Ford engineer telling me the made errors in programming with earlier ECU's and microprocessors, whereby intermittent wiring harness connector problems were logged as major faults.
Things such as a flying piece of wood or a stone flicked up by a wheel would hit a connector, cause a temporary power disconnection, and it would be logged as major component fault!

Then there's the problem of microprocessors designed to do integral circuitry fault finding - but when the microprocessor itself fails - you're left in the dark!

We have a 4WD Isuzu truck, stuck in my neighbours workshop right at present.
Driven in to do some minor panel and paint on it, it now refuses to move, because an aftermarket, dash-mounted, low-air-pressure warning light is flashing.

This means the signal to the fly-by-wire accelerator is not being sent, so you can press the accelerator, but nothing happens.
We can start the engine and run it up, it runs happily, the air pressure gauges are up in the green - but the light won't stop flashing, and as soon as we engage drive in the auto, the accelerator stops working.
Talk about frustration. We know it's probably a faulty sensor somewhere - but we need a code reader, and probably a laptop, to try and find the problem, so we can just get it out of the shop!

Cheers, Ron.
FollowupID: 892756

Reply By: Member - peter_mcc - Thursday, Jul 26, 2018 at 16:27

Thursday, Jul 26, 2018 at 16:27
As others have said, if you're heading somewhere really remote get a Scangauge so you can read/clear fault codes. A sat phone could also be useful if you've got friends back at home who can look for info for you - if you're stuck somewhere remote you could call them, tell them the symptoms/error codes and they could do some research on the 'net to see how you could fix it. Calling a dealer would probably be useless unless it's a common fault - mostly I've found the people you get to speak to have no idea about anything much.

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