Twine Install into 90 series Prado

Submitted: Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 07:47
ThreadID: 13703 Views:2277 Replies:4 FollowUps:2
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Guys,

Have just purchased the Twine shower and looking to install it in the car..

Perhaps I should have taken notice when the ARB guys said "thats 300-400 dollars to install because it's ableepof a job...) - they reckon it would take all day..

Has anyone done this? - I guess as soon as you start adding extras under the bonnet (I already have a dual battery - second batt on passenger side between fuse box and firewall), everyone's config becomes different.

I have 'some' room on the drivers side behind the air filter, but I am yet to get a snorkel and I reckon that will need 'that space'.

Here's the questions then...

1. Heat exchanger looks like it will fit very nicely across the top of the firewall above the engine - not sure why the ARB guys said 'behind' the engine (like it was difficult) - am I missing the point here?? - Also, can anyone tell me if I'm safe to put a drill through here - I did read somewhere about issues with 80 series and brake lines....

2. There are two heater hoses entering the firewall very close to each other - can anyone tell me whether the inlet (flowing into cabin space) is the drivers side or passenger side (save some investigation)

3. I'm also pondering mounting the (shurflo) pump on the inside of the bull bar - any reasons I might not want to do that?? - am sure I've picked up that others are doing this...

Any other hints, pics etc gratefully accepted!!!

Regards

Ivan

(90 series GXL V6)

p.s. Apologies for crossposts (LCoolACT , 90sCOOL_AUS, 90series and Exploroz... Long weekend is good for me to install, but my chance of a response is low with everyone away - clutching at straws!! If I get 'good oil', on other lists I'll post it back here 'for the record'
Cheers,

Ivan
2008 D4D Prado

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Reply By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 08:00

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 08:00
Also interested in any bright ideas/pics on how you might have mounted your inlet/outlet.. ;-)
Cheers,

Ivan
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AnswerID: 62867

Reply By: Baz (NSW) - Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 09:30

Saturday, Jun 12, 2004 at 09:30
I had the same prob with my Helton installing it the Explorer no room, had ti make my own braket to suit know has put a heat exchanger in an Explorer so i had nothing to go on.

[ View Image]this is what i did.

Baz
AnswerID: 62868

Reply By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Sunday, Jun 13, 2004 at 08:49

Sunday, Jun 13, 2004 at 08:49
Hi guys - well, its in!!

I mounted the heat exchanger directly above the brake booster - very little room to move, but it does fit without rubbing on the booster. Pump, I mounted behind the drivers side head light against the outside body of the engine bay.

It works an absolute treat - as far as pumping the water goes.. Temperature is a different story.. Even with the temperature control fully open, car at normal operating temperature, and at idle - the water is not warm at all. Give her some revs though and it starts steaming! - We finally used a small twig in the throttle assembly to get the right temp (it opened up the throttle by about 1.5 - 2mm)

Has anyone else had this?? is there something to do with water flow and needing more than idle revs? I'd sort of hoped I could idle away, and drive the temp with my temp control in the cabin.. Unless I can sort out how to get the water a shade hotter at idle, I'll have to set up some sort of manual throttle control under the bonnet. (the stick thing was fine in the driveway, but...)

Also a bit stuck on the inlet and outlet hoses.. Not quite sure if or how to mount them - at the moment they come through the engine bay and through the holes behind the headlights, then just sitting loose in front of the radiator.. (I stopped because it got dark and we had visitors... - I might be blinded by the obvious this morning ;-)

Aside from what to do with the hoses, and how to better control the temperature than fast idle, I'm very happy with it. I have photo's if anyone is interested.


Cheers,

Ivan
2008 D4D Prado

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AnswerID: 62958

Follow Up By: Michael - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 10:08

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 10:08
Hi Ivan, What revs , shower head flow rate do you have to have to acheive a a reasonable output temperature, I would be interested. What aprox temp is the output? Thanks Michael
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FollowupID: 324646

Follow Up By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 18:43

Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 at 18:43
Michael,

1500 revs for close on 8lpm - for a 'nice warm shower' (on the hot side) - not sure on temp
Cheers,

Ivan
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Reply By: Sam - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 07:05

Tuesday, Jun 15, 2004 at 07:05
I have a Glind HWS which is essentially the same as the Twine on my 90 V6 Prado. Same deal with the water temp. I need to sit the engine on about 1500rpm for a nice hot shower. A lump of wood pushing against the accelerator does the job, but a more refined approach would be better.

As for the hose fitment. Gather some aluminium Kamloc fittings and mount them permanently through your bullbar. This makes a quick setup and allows you to carry two suction hoses. ie 1 short hose for sucking out of a bucket and 1 long garded hose to suck out a permanent water source.

I have also mounted the on/off switch on the grill panel. This saves a little battery power and is a more user freindly way of shutting the water off compared with the shower nozzle setup which can get stiff after time.

Hope this helps.

Sam
AnswerID: 63183

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